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Infamous waterfall, misfire on 6 & 7...

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  #21  
Old 06-24-2012, 01:27 PM
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You should replace the T-Stat.
Check hoses for cracks and rot. Replace any hoses while in there.
---
If you have a lot of energy and tolerance for risk and are a perfectionist:

Replace the water pump. Or dig in behind it and replace the timing chain, oil pump.
I did not do all that with 96,000 miles on my engine.

I did not even mill the heads or do the valves. Just cleaned up the heads, deck put on the gaskets and - still running 1,000 miles later.

If your valves tap, you could replace the lifters. Those are not inexpensive.

Supposedly you should replace all your exhaust studs.
I had one snap off and when the head was removed, I used vice grips to get it out and that was that.
Ordered new stud from eBay. Some guy in Buffalo had original studs.
 
  #22  
Old 08-15-2012, 01:41 AM
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OK gents,

Head gasket have been replaced! Heads were sent to machine shop and checked out clean straight and with valves done.

ONE ISSUE LEFT: the misfire on 6 still exists at startup (throwing p306 and 1 in 10 times p1319) and I am unable to get rid of the air in the coolant system. Compression is good. Oil is not milky after 750 miles. Since the HG was done and it did not get rid of the #6 issue, I am asking for some help (again...).

Other facts:
- plugs and wires were recently done: Magnecor 8mm / Bosch plat 4+
- old #6 fuel injector was swapped with #2: did not move misfire to #2
- loosing coolant, but see no leak (exit through exhaust ---> what does that mean if I just did the HG's?)

THANKS!!!
 
  #23  
Old 08-15-2012, 05:05 AM
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It means you have a leak, which can be found perhaps with a borrowed or rented coolant pressure tester (pump up to 16 PSI and let it sit). The coolant could be leaking into # 6 after shutdown, and there would be moisture in there the next morning. The 1 of 10 might mean that it is a tiny crack in the block, behind the sleeve, which leaks more or less depending on position the piston parks in overnight, and if valves are open to allow any evaporation.

It could mean you have a gasket problem (buggered up while installing, or folded over, etc.), or a cracked block. There is a green dye that can be added to coolant, and then you exam plugs for flecks of green.

And there is always KSeal. But you have to apply it by flickering fire light from the meat roasting to honor the Rover gods.

If you are overheating would suspect larger problem.
 
  #24  
Old 08-15-2012, 05:42 AM
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I hate jumping to conclusion, but I'm gonna have to agree with buzz, based onon the infomorning you have provided. Do you have any ticking noises that would indicate a liner moving?
 
  #25  
Old 08-15-2012, 11:56 AM
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OK, thanks guys...

I don't think we messed up the gasket when putting on the passenger side head. It was a 2-person job of very carefully aligning and lowering over the pins.

Now, the block has only about 25K miles on it... How likely is it to be cracked? The engine has gotten hot once while in my posession, 235F, but never spewed coolant out. There is a VERY faint tick noticeable, but nothing close to one of my previous DII's.

So how many Rovers are driving around with KSeal? And how long would anyone believe it could drive around with KSeal? Any other suggestions?
 
  #26  
Old 08-15-2012, 05:03 PM
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yeah, pump up your cooling system to 20 psi or so and let it sit.
If you messed up the valley gasket then coolant may be collecting in the valley and falling out the back on the valley onto the ground.

I would put two bottles of Barr's leaks basic stuff into it and see if that plugs it.
I run Barr's leaks in our Discovery I - all the time.

I figure - if I messed it up a bit after the HG job - then the Barr's leaks keeps the antifreeze out of the oil and the intake ports -maybe a bit.

And we have the original radiator at 163K miles too.
 
  #27  
Old 08-15-2012, 05:08 PM
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Have you swapped the coils by any chance to see if the misfire moves?
 
  #28  
Old 08-15-2012, 06:37 PM
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No, I have not swapped the coils. My reasoning was that the misfire only happens immediately after starting, not while idling at a light.

I don't see coolant on the ground, but I will inspect more carefully to see if I can find traces at the back of the engine.

Strongly leaning towards Barr's or KSeal at this time. Should probably start looking for a 4.6 block too...
 
  #29  
Old 08-15-2012, 06:56 PM
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Fuego you may want to check your valley pan gasket.
 
  #30  
Old 08-16-2012, 05:38 AM
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Ok, lets make this easy. Borrow a borescope and before startup, stick it in yhere. If you see coolant, you have your leak!
If not, its the coil.
 

Last edited by dgi 07; 08-16-2012 at 05:41 AM.


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