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Intermittent start, turn key = Click

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  #11  
Old 04-10-2018 | 11:10 AM
CollieRover's Avatar
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Free Fix! Doesn't get better than that!
 
  #12  
Old 04-10-2018 | 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by jeffery212
OffroadFrance called it. I checked all connections repeatedly, and load tested battery. 12 volts at starter, but it was stuck in engaged position. It was a rebuild and in this case I had the shop do the replacment. Had it towed there by AAA and they replaced free of charge under warranty. Let's hope this one lasts more than a week! Why is it such a crapshoot to get rebuilt starter? Thanks all!
Good result in the end. I wish I was 100% at guessing all of the time !

"Let's hope this one lasts more than a week! Why is it such a crapshoot to get rebuilt starter?" it's a sad case of some you win others you lose, generally it's a case of rebuild quality and they often skimp on the expensive or obvious parts like solenoids, bearings etc. The trouble with starter motors is they work hard but only for a few seconds usually and they flunk without warning.
 
  #13  
Old 04-13-2018 | 01:32 PM
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One start with the new starter and it failed again. Another tow to the garage (third time). Same circumstance. They indicate the "starter is staying engaged."

This does not really make sense to me, as staying engaged I picture it grinding against the flywheel. But those are their words. Either way, they are able to move the motor back into place, turn key and get a few starts, then it's back to the click.

They are proposing that we go to an OEM starter, which strikes me as an expensive and fruitless plan. Does anyone know how many teeth should be a D2 starter - possible they are providing the wrong part? Any ideas?

Thanks, all!
 
  #14  
Old 04-13-2018 | 03:37 PM
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I don't know the tooth count.
But, if the starter gear is wrong, then it should bind and/or grind, and the starter and ring gear should show visibly noticeable wear or damage.
I would not think that is the problem.
Could you have gotten bad aftermarket starters? Definately.
Is that the problem? So far it's anyone's guess.
Sorry I don't have more info for you.
 
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  #15  
Old 04-13-2018 | 07:42 PM
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Originally Posted by jeffery212
One start with the new starter and it failed again. Another tow to the garage (third time). Same circumstance. They indicate the "starter is staying engaged."

This does not really make sense to me, as staying engaged I picture it grinding against the flywheel. But those are their words. Either way, they are able to move the motor back into place, turn key and get a few starts, then it's back to the click.

They are proposing that we go to an OEM starter, which strikes me as an expensive and fruitless plan. Does anyone know how many teeth should be a D2 starter - possible they are providing the wrong part? Any ideas?

Thanks, all!
I got a parts player on recommendation from this board, and it has been great in really really cold whether. Makes my old starter sound like a sick dog. Less than $100 on Amazon.
 
  #16  
Old 04-21-2018 | 07:42 AM
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STILL struggling with this. My local shop has basically told me, take it away. He's not inept - has been doing this 30 years, although he admits he does not see many rovers. I keep telling him, there is nothing special to the starter system here.

He says plenty of amps, and the small 12 volt line responds find to the ignition.

He is having same symptoms with two starters. Car will start several times, then suddenly he gets just a click, and upon checking the starter motor is stuck engaged in the flex plate.

I've read about shimming to fine tune the position of the starter. Could that help with sticking?

Or weak bendix spring - but that seems odd for intermittent issue?

Maybe run a second ground?

Anyone familiar with the Atlantic British starters?

Thanks!!
 
  #17  
Old 04-21-2018 | 07:58 AM
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Originally Posted by jeffery212
STILL struggling with this. My local shop has basically told me, take it away. He's not inept - has been doing this 30 years, although he admits he does not see many rovers. I keep telling him, there is nothing special to the starter system here.

He says plenty of amps, and the small 12 volt line responds find to the ignition.

He is having same symptoms with two starters. Car will start several times, then suddenly he gets just a click, and upon checking the starter motor is stuck engaged in the flex plate.

I've read about shimming to fine tune the position of the starter. Could that help with sticking?

Or weak bendix spring - but that seems odd for intermittent issue?

Maybe run a second ground?

Anyone familiar with the Atlantic British starters?

Thanks!!
Wow, still not working? The Starter I believe grounds itself through the block through mounting. I don't think you can do better than that.

Call AB and see what their technician has to say. You'd be real unlucky with this many bad starters.

You may check the condition of the Fuse Boxes. When have my BCU issue I read a few people that experienced those rotting and causing starting issues.
 
  #18  
Old 04-22-2018 | 05:40 AM
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If you have a good battery, good connections and new cables, l'd source another brand starter.

Brian.
 
  #19  
Old 04-22-2018 | 07:31 AM
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Hi guys sorry to jump on this thread how long before newbies can start a new thread? I have a, hopefully simple, starting problem on a 53 plate auto 2.5 dispel (the hope spring is eternal).
 
  #20  
Old 04-22-2018 | 09:37 AM
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I think the minimum time for newbies is at least 6 months.







Just kidding.

Originally Posted by Jat76
Hi guys sorry to jump on this thread how long before newbies can start a new thread? I have a, hopefully simple, starting problem on a 53 plate auto 2.5 dispel (the hope spring is eternal).
 



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