2003 Discovery, Bosch engine, 117k

The rover let me sit a about two weeks ago in a basically a blizzard. Turned the key and it gave me a rapid clicking. The tow truck driver tried to jump it with no success and given the alternative of working on it in 6 inches of slush, I had it towed to the local shop. They replaced the starter, which made sense to me as it is original starter.

Now the problem. It continues to fail and has let me sit several times since. Starts a half dozen times then stops. I had it back to the guys who installed the starter and they said they went over all the connections and it started fine.

I noticed I could spin the battery terminal clamps by hand and it it randomly started up on multiple attempts. So I figured that was it and maybe the connections were also not solid enough for the alternator to be doing it's job. Yesterday I replaced them with new military grade and soldered copper connectors. Click.

- Tried to jump from my car. Was reading 13.9 volts at my Rover cables = click.

I've read a ton of threads and am still stuck.

- Battery is an optima red top - four years old. Reads 12 volts - sitting there.
- Alternator was reading 14+ volts (when it ran.)
- Just checked OBD. No codes.
- dash shows the different transmission positions correctly - does this rule out XYX sensor?
- New battery terminal clamps
- Checked grounds under hood and all have good continuity.
- Ground to alternator was the only one offering some resistance. read 280 on my multimeter
- replaced CPS about 8 months ago. This seems different from when that went - it would die while running. This is intermittent start - now no start.

Is it likely I got a bad starter, or other things to check? Thanks all.

 

Head scratcher. I was sure it was your battery cables till I got to the part that you replaced them.

I’m not remembering, but does a D2 have a starter relay?

If you are sure your cables are sorted I would check for that.

 

 

The 500.00 wonder I bought last week had all sorts of lovely things to sort thru before I got it running. One of the famous low intelligence repairs I ran across was the main starter cable melted onto the exhaust manifold.... Then once I fixed that I swapped out the starter with a spare and it was good to go.

I've had zero problems with Auto Zone refurb starters, but I've had issues with Oreilly's refurbs. Parts Player stuff is very good IMHO as I've had several alternators from them with no faults or issues.

 

Thanks for this tip. I pulled off the glove box and tapped BCU a bunch of times. Still no luck. But it gave me something else to try. Is there any way to test - or visibly check the BCU? Thanks again.

 

Red tops are junk. I've got 4 on my bench right now, 2 are new and 1 is junk already from sitting a few months.
My Buddy installed one in his Chevy, brand new from advance auto, last about 14 months, he said never again.

A battery can still be bad with 12 volts.

Its not the sitting volts you measure, its the cranking volts.

Do a reading on the battery while you crank it.

Its still possible its the cables, battery connectors. When you try to move that many amps loose connections can lose connection.

Also play with your ignition switch. If you have a ton of keys hanging off your keychain you wear out the switch.
Only use minimal keys on your Rover keychain.

 

GOOD CONTINUITY DOES NOT MEAN GOOD CONNECTION!!! You can have one strand of wire making your connection which is enough to give a zero resistance reading on your meter. -And full voltage. It will not carry enough current to crank a starter motor! Double check your connections with your eye-ometer! Take them apart, clean and reconnect.

 

 

A guess, it sounds like the solenoid on the starter has stuck. Make up a length of wire, 10-15 amp 4' long with a female spade connector on one end, remove the LT spade on the solenoid and attach your wire, touch the other end onto the battery positive for a couple of seconds, if the starter motor runs and it starts it's not the solenoid but if it clicks the 12 volt HV connector is toast. You can remove the solenoid and clean it but best get a new solenoid asap as they are sold separately. The BCU is generally bombproof so very unlikely.

There isn't a starter relay on the D2 to answer Abrans question.

Check the RAVE V8 circuit diagrams page 15-2.

 

OffroadFrance called it. I checked all connections repeatedly, and load tested battery. 12 volts at starter, but it was stuck in engaged position. It was a rebuild and in this case I had the shop do the replacment. Had it towed there by AAA and they replaced free of charge under warranty. Let's hope this one lasts more than a week! Why is it such a crapshoot to get rebuilt starter? Thanks all!