I just bought a 95 Disco with 107k miles on it on Sunday evening, and I spent about 4 hours reading threads on this forum and one other last night! lol...

I am very well versed with BMWs, but new to Rover. This is my second SUV work truck though, as my last one was totalled in an accident in August, (a 93 Pathfinder XE-V6), and the Rover is my new truck (finally got the insurance cash!).

Here's some questions I've not come up with good answers for yet from doing all my reading up:

Q#1 - will switching to 10/40 (I think that's what it was) really make a good difference in gas mileage and power / smoothness? Why does this change work so well for these Rovers?

Q#2 - I noticed that the engine bay and hood got VERY hot on my test drive. I have never had a vehilce that got a hot hood like that before, but, seeing as the car wasn't making any strange sounds or anything I figured this has somethig to do with this model Rover and I even found a thread were someone else mentioned engine bay heat being a typical part of Rovers. Is this true?

Q#3 - K&N vs. Stock OE Air box filters... what's the current opinion on these... I saw some guys that said, yes, these work great as a mod, and later on almost seemed to change their minds!

Q#4 - I noticed a "dead spot" on normal acceleration around 40-60 mph... is this normal? If I kick it down, it seems to get up there, but this is my first Automatic in a while so it is weird for me. Normal?

Q#5 - I would like to see if I actually like offroading... any good spots to get out there in South Florida?

Q#6 - How many front brush guards are available for my 95 Disco from Genuine Rover, and how many and what brands are available aftermarket? I don't live near any rocks so I don't think I'll be looking into a Rock Slider (? I think that's what you guys call them), but would like a cattle pusher / traffic clearer beefy brush guard.

More questions coming soon!
-John Paul

 

Another question: I want to switch the wipers out for some BOSCH icons, but I don't know the part #s. Anybody know the part #s and lengths of blades on a 95 Rover?

-John Paul

 

What weight of oil are you running now? 10W40 should be fine in Southern Florida.

Aluminum block and heads. They tend to retain heat more, thus making the engine bay extrememly warm. The radiators are prone to clogging, so make sure it is good and clean. Might take an infrared thermometer to check for hot spots if you are concerned...

K&N should be ok on your 95. It will allow more dirt through, thus gumming up your MAF and T-body faster. You don't get too much out of using it. Later Disco's have a Bosch MAF and the K&N will kill it fast. I have a 97 with the same SAGEMS MAF you have, and I took it off. runs great with a WIX paper filter.

Not sure on the dead spot. could be a number of things. Is it at a certain RPM and do you get rough running?

Your factory brush guards are going to be hard to find cheap. www.roverparts.com has a few for your D1. If you want stability and a winch, you can get one like an ARB or rovertyme that won't bend into the grill if you hit a bug...

 

I am guessing stock... which is???20W50??? not sure... do know what stock would be?I bought it from it's second owner, who seems to have had it fairly well maintained for its age.

I will take a look into that... I saw some guys using the heat wraps to try and keep the heat in the exhaust tubing etc. and NOT in the engine bay... from my BMW experience, I would imagine that these cars are losing a lot of power to heat soak when they are warmed up due to this.

I'm looking for imrpoved gas and a little more power if possible. I'll go with watever the best is for a 95... WIX over K&N? is WIX aftermarket brand?

Dead / slow spot seems to be dissappearing now that I've driven the truck more. Maybe the seller hadn't driven it hardly at all before I bought it (seller bought a GLI and wasn't using the truck anymore)... seems to be picking up pep almost by the day by the way... is this normal if one of these has been sitting for a while?

hmmm... will look into those. I work at a BMW shop, so we can start getting into Rovers and I can buy at cost if I can convince those in control that it would be more than just me buying stuff! lol...

-John Paul

 

Wix is an O'Reilly's product.

If you are looking for better mileage, change your driveline fluids to synthetic, change you O2 sensors if they have over 90K on them. Run Bosch Fusion or +4 plugs with Magnacor 8MM wires. Not a whole lot you can do, it sucks.

10W40 should do just fine. Do you not have an owner's manual? Search E-bay for a Rave CD. Has the workshop manual and everything you should need.

Might look into doing the 60K recommended on here....good if you don't have service records, or if you get a high mileage truck.

 

10W40 is what Land Rover wants.
I would useHighmileage oil.

Wix is the first Company to make filters. They started making
the filters for 18 wheelers.
Oil filters Mobil One, OEM, is what I use.

Don't wrap the exhaust the manifold itmay crack.
Some people have put in hood vents at the back.
I do not think its needed. If the hood liner is hanging down that
could slow air flow.

I would do a intake cleaning to help rid the dead spot.

The brush guards that are OEM most are padded so if you hit
a person they may live.
Most of the after market are for off road (steel).

I have a snorkel with the OEM paper filter setup and will stay
with it.

You have the last year for the Distributor after that it was coil pack
(95).

You have 2 O2 sensors just in front of the cats not 4 that started
in 96 on most.

 

Thanks again to the guys that have been posting back on my questions.

Sorry for the delayed replys. I just got back from SEMA and it was quite an experience. So many great new products out there.

OK... looks like everyone likes synthetic, high mileage, 10W40 which is the recommended oil (10W40) that the factory recommends on new trucks.

Q: what brand oil do you guys most pefer? There are zillions. At the SEMA show, I was impressed by Motul's line. Has anyone tried Motul in their D1?

In addition, my truck has developed (sooo soon after buying it ) an under cabin (towards the front of the truck) "rolling rocks" sound, which I am going to have checked out tomorrow. Symptoms: It only happens at certain RPM ranges or road speeds, and comes and goes through the range both on the acceleration and braking side. My experience with my Pathfinder having a drive-shaft support bearing go out on the highway leads me to believe that this is most likely the same issue and that the sheer solidness and weight of the D1 is why the truck is not shaking violently when the noise is evident like the Pathfinder did.

The other option is that it may be my sequential differential (correct name?) going out? I read on either this board or the other big Rover board that that can be an issue with these trucks in the mileage range I have.

Any ideas?

The engine seems to be fine, and the speed is there, but the noise is getting worse, so I don't plan on driving it around much except for absolute necessity until I get it fixed.

I plan on changing the oil and oil filter at the same time while I'm at it.

Q2: how much does a drive-shaft support bearing or fixing the sequential gear box run? (different fixes, but curious). I'm interested in both parts and labor, as I can secure my parts at wholesale, but will have to take the truck to a service shop for the install.

 

Another question:

Does anyone offer aftermarket tuning in the USA for D1s?

At SEMA, part of the focus of my trip was to research shop tools, in particular dyno's and ECU tuning / EPROM tuning systems and so far, I have not come accross any companies doing aftermarket EPROM OBD1 tuning for Discoverys.

 

South Florida Here too.....

I just bought a 1994 Discovery with 157,000 as my daily driver
We should meet up at Tower Shoppes one Friday night.

I am still learning these too... I also have a Chevy Silverado and am well versed there
but still green when it comes to Rover

I think I am spending all my free time on this one LOL
Addictive isnt it

For 4 wheeling I discovered this lot near 75 and Commercial that is great with Mud bogs and pits

 

www.powerchipgroup.com.
I have this and like it.