Just bought a 99 - With 308k Miles
#11
06-01-2016, 09:02 PM
1. There's no chip in the key, so the fob isn't necessary. I used metal key for a couple of years. The non-functioning locks have nothing to do with the fob. The lock problem might be a fuse, but I bet it's just bad lock motors.
2. The truck is 4 wheel drive at all times, but the traction control system is designed around a functioning ABS. The Three Amigos means the ABS is malfunctioning, so your TCS is currently inoperative. Basically, that means if you are off-roading and one wheel starts spinning, it will continue to spin instead of the ABS locking the wheel and redirecting power to the other wheels. (EDIT: Alex beat me to it)
3. You can download the entire service manual for free. It's called the RAVE. Google it.
4. Most people use an Ultragauge to monitor temps. It's a configurable digital device that plugs into your OBDII port and give you real time info.
5. Check out the 60k miles service thread. That's the stuff I would do to start.
6. Check the front driveshaft. They notorious for failing and destroying the transmission. Since you don't know it's condition, I personally would rebuild it ASAP.
7. These trucks are extremely sensitive to overheating. So I personally would replace the idler pulleys, tensioner, and possibly the water pump and fan clutch. I have ended up replacing all of these on my 125k mile truck, and two of them when I was hundreds of miles from home and broke down on the interstate.
2. The truck is 4 wheel drive at all times, but the traction control system is designed around a functioning ABS. The Three Amigos means the ABS is malfunctioning, so your TCS is currently inoperative. Basically, that means if you are off-roading and one wheel starts spinning, it will continue to spin instead of the ABS locking the wheel and redirecting power to the other wheels. (EDIT: Alex beat me to it)
3. You can download the entire service manual for free. It's called the RAVE. Google it.
4. Most people use an Ultragauge to monitor temps. It's a configurable digital device that plugs into your OBDII port and give you real time info.
5. Check out the 60k miles service thread. That's the stuff I would do to start.
6. Check the front driveshaft. They notorious for failing and destroying the transmission. Since you don't know it's condition, I personally would rebuild it ASAP.
7. These trucks are extremely sensitive to overheating. So I personally would replace the idler pulleys, tensioner, and possibly the water pump and fan clutch. I have ended up replacing all of these on my 125k mile truck, and two of them when I was hundreds of miles from home and broke down on the interstate.
I'm going to do a cooling system overhaul soon. That was one of my biggest fears. The last thing I want is to have a tow off the beach that costs as much as I paid for the car. I learned about that when my wife convinced me to take her mom's x5 onto the beach and it got stuck with the tide coming in. Got out just in time 780 dollars later...
#12
06-01-2016, 09:51 PM
Camel Trophy
Brake pad life has nothing to do with the 3 amigos I'm afraid. The CDL is an option, though better or worse is debatable. Now, if you have the two together, you're virtually unstoppable. Speaking of, I really need to buy a transmission jack.
There is a possibility of the brake dust interfering with the wheel speed sensors, but even if that is the case then you'll still need a scanner that can read and clear the ABS codes because they will not clear on their own. When I repaired mine I just replaced the SLABS unit (ABS computer), but that was only because I already had an extra from my parts truck. Disconnecting the battery also will not clear ABS codes.
Personally, I'd do both. A CDL shifter from a Disco 1 can be had relatively cheap if you don't want to fork out the money for one out of an '04 D2 and ABS diagnosis should be relatively easy once you can scan the codes.
There is a possibility of the brake dust interfering with the wheel speed sensors, but even if that is the case then you'll still need a scanner that can read and clear the ABS codes because they will not clear on their own. When I repaired mine I just replaced the SLABS unit (ABS computer), but that was only because I already had an extra from my parts truck. Disconnecting the battery also will not clear ABS codes.
Personally, I'd do both. A CDL shifter from a Disco 1 can be had relatively cheap if you don't want to fork out the money for one out of an '04 D2 and ABS diagnosis should be relatively easy once you can scan the codes.
#13
06-01-2016, 11:12 PM
Piggybacking on Alex's post:
The 2004 CDL shifter is mucho hardo to find. The CDL shifter from the D1 requires a lot of tinkering to get it in, but is much cheaper and easier to procure. That said, it was enough of a a PITA that after I installed the D1 shifter I remember posting here that in the long run it would have been smarter to just buy the 04 style shifter. There was a lot tinkering involved to get it working, and the D1 shifter I bought was frozen so spent a lot of time just getting it working. Self inflicted? Yes.
Alex is absolutely correct about ABS codes, but I'd add that there are several people who will rent the code reader for a hefty deposit but reasonable fee. I can PM you the guy who rented me one, but there are several folks willing to help.
The 2004 CDL shifter is mucho hardo to find. The CDL shifter from the D1 requires a lot of tinkering to get it in, but is much cheaper and easier to procure. That said, it was enough of a a PITA that after I installed the D1 shifter I remember posting here that in the long run it would have been smarter to just buy the 04 style shifter. There was a lot tinkering involved to get it working, and the D1 shifter I bought was frozen so spent a lot of time just getting it working. Self inflicted? Yes.
Alex is absolutely correct about ABS codes, but I'd add that there are several people who will rent the code reader for a hefty deposit but reasonable fee. I can PM you the guy who rented me one, but there are several folks willing to help.
#14
06-02-2016, 12:27 AM
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#16
06-03-2016, 03:30 PM
I also have a P0440 and P0446 for the evap system, and a pending code (can't remember off the top of my head) for a lean condition. Leaning towards it being the purge valve, ordered new style "hyundai" replacement and gas cap as a starting point for that
If you want electrical manuals download the zip file, large file warning 590MB.
land rover service factory manual RAVE download land rover resource, service manual, workshop factory manual, download, rave, vehicles including discovery, series, defender, range rover, freelander, LR3, Handbooks, Catalog, Catalogue, Land Rover Inte
......
land rover service factory manual RAVE download land rover resource, service manual, workshop factory manual, download, rave, vehicles including discovery, series, defender, range rover, freelander, LR3, Handbooks, Catalog, Catalogue, Land Rover Inte
......
Piggybacking on Alex's post:
The 2004 CDL shifter is mucho hardo to find. The CDL shifter from the D1 requires a lot of tinkering to get it in, but is much cheaper and easier to procure. That said, it was enough of a a PITA that after I installed the D1 shifter I remember posting here that in the long run it would have been smarter to just buy the 04 style shifter. There was a lot tinkering involved to get it working, and the D1 shifter I bought was frozen so spent a lot of time just getting it working. Self inflicted? Yes.
Alex is absolutely correct about ABS codes, but I'd add that there are several people who will rent the code reader for a hefty deposit but reasonable fee. I can PM you the guy who rented me one, but there are several folks willing to help.
The 2004 CDL shifter is mucho hardo to find. The CDL shifter from the D1 requires a lot of tinkering to get it in, but is much cheaper and easier to procure. That said, it was enough of a a PITA that after I installed the D1 shifter I remember posting here that in the long run it would have been smarter to just buy the 04 style shifter. There was a lot tinkering involved to get it working, and the D1 shifter I bought was frozen so spent a lot of time just getting it working. Self inflicted? Yes.
Alex is absolutely correct about ABS codes, but I'd add that there are several people who will rent the code reader for a hefty deposit but reasonable fee. I can PM you the guy who rented me one, but there are several folks willing to help.
I am waiting a bit on CDL setup as i am going over budget shopping this week
Brake pad life has nothing to do with the 3 amigos I'm afraid. The CDL is an option, though better or worse is debatable. Now, if you have the two together, you're virtually unstoppable. Speaking of, I really need to buy a transmission jack.
There is a possibility of the brake dust interfering with the wheel speed sensors, but even if that is the case then you'll still need a scanner that can read and clear the ABS codes because they will not clear on their own. When I repaired mine I just replaced the SLABS unit (ABS computer), but that was only because I already had an extra from my parts truck. Disconnecting the battery also will not clear ABS codes.
Personally, I'd do both. A CDL shifter from a Disco 1 can be had relatively cheap if you don't want to fork out the money for one out of an '04 D2 and ABS diagnosis should be relatively easy once you can scan the codes.
There is a possibility of the brake dust interfering with the wheel speed sensors, but even if that is the case then you'll still need a scanner that can read and clear the ABS codes because they will not clear on their own. When I repaired mine I just replaced the SLABS unit (ABS computer), but that was only because I already had an extra from my parts truck. Disconnecting the battery also will not clear ABS codes.
Personally, I'd do both. A CDL shifter from a Disco 1 can be had relatively cheap if you don't want to fork out the money for one out of an '04 D2 and ABS diagnosis should be relatively easy once you can scan the codes.
Additionally, there are a couple 04's being parted locally so I will see if the CDL setup is available in a couple weeks once I stop spending so damn much on everything else
So far this is where i'm at -
Bought:
New pads and rotors all around
Purge Valve and gas cap to start work on evap code
Sway bar links as fronts are shot
OEM Brush Guard (used, 200 dollars local)
Hella 500's
100w bulbs for Hella 500's
20" Led bar for front, 2 18w led lights for rear - temporary until oem roof carrier to mount 4 more hella 500's - I'm an avid night biker and love tons of lighting
BT Obd tool and phone mount with old LG G3 to exclusively run torque app for monitoring temps
Kenwood head unit with bluetooth and all the bells and whistles - while i hate the look of it, i need some way to play music from the phone
800w inverter, Nice Air Compressor, Tire Deflator, Tow Ropes and D Ring Hitch
Trailer Hitch cargo rack to bring crap on and off beach when used for family stuff
Lots of off road and beach permits
Issues -
Power locks still not working. Need to look into it a bit more to diagnose as it is trying to actuate them but just doesn't have the output to do so. If it becomes too difficult i may look at an aftermarket kit or remove the oem wiring and bypass the BCM, install a hard line to 12v with a momentary switch
Ignition tumbler/key combo funky (have to kind of have key halfway in to turn- May convert to push button once locks are fixed
Has a slightly rough start which i know could be indicative of a head gasket issue but for now i'm going to do plugs/basic tuneup/clean maf and TB and hope it helps. It's also a little rough at idle when warmed up but very very slightly
Front end has some wobble- Will bear further investigation once i spend a little time under car
Coolant temp runs steady in the mid 190's which i think is good?
308k miles and I really can't complain. It's a little slow but thats ok. Both of my cars have more than double the horsepower and weigh less so its a different animal altogether. I've become the guy i used to hate getting stuck behind...and i don't mind. I've actually driven it everywhere this week besides once when I went to drive at night and realized that it had a few lights out
Gonna drive this thing til the wheels fall off - or it overheats, which is more likely
#17
06-03-2016, 04:59 PM
Couple thoughts for you:
If the key is just a metal aftermarket key, they are mostly all like you describe. For some reason the key that is supposed to fir is just a little bit off. You have to put it in and back it out a click or two to get it to work.
As for the three amigos, bad brakes will set it off. Also, the wrong brake pads will set if off too. Something in the squeel of the brakes, whether metal on metal or new brake pads (high metallic content) can set off the ABS sensor. I use Akebono pads, they are bit pricey, but they are best and longest lasting pads I have ever used.
Coolant temps in the 190's is perfect.
Thanks for sharing your story. Gives me hope that there is a lot of life left in my Rover!
If the key is just a metal aftermarket key, they are mostly all like you describe. For some reason the key that is supposed to fir is just a little bit off. You have to put it in and back it out a click or two to get it to work.
As for the three amigos, bad brakes will set it off. Also, the wrong brake pads will set if off too. Something in the squeel of the brakes, whether metal on metal or new brake pads (high metallic content) can set off the ABS sensor. I use Akebono pads, they are bit pricey, but they are best and longest lasting pads I have ever used.
Coolant temps in the 190's is perfect.
Thanks for sharing your story. Gives me hope that there is a lot of life left in my Rover!
Last edited by humroot; 06-03-2016 at 05:01 PM.
#18
06-03-2016, 07:18 PM
#19
06-04-2016, 06:44 AM
Couple thoughts for you:
If the key is just a metal aftermarket key, they are mostly all like you describe. For some reason the key that is supposed to fir is just a little bit off. You have to put it in and back it out a click or two to get it to work.
As for the three amigos, bad brakes will set it off. Also, the wrong brake pads will set if off too. Something in the squeel of the brakes, whether metal on metal or new brake pads (high metallic content) can set off the ABS sensor. I use Akebono pads, they are bit pricey, but they are best and longest lasting pads I have ever used.
Coolant temps in the 190's is perfect.
Thanks for sharing your story. Gives me hope that there is a lot of life left in my Rover!
If the key is just a metal aftermarket key, they are mostly all like you describe. For some reason the key that is supposed to fir is just a little bit off. You have to put it in and back it out a click or two to get it to work.
As for the three amigos, bad brakes will set it off. Also, the wrong brake pads will set if off too. Something in the squeel of the brakes, whether metal on metal or new brake pads (high metallic content) can set off the ABS sensor. I use Akebono pads, they are bit pricey, but they are best and longest lasting pads I have ever used.
Coolant temps in the 190's is perfect.
Thanks for sharing your story. Gives me hope that there is a lot of life left in my Rover!
I may just try this as I'm spending way too much on everything else lately. Funny how easy it is to get carried away. I don't mind the extra costs but I'm trying to keep it to things I can remove and put on my next d2 once this one crosses over the Rainbow Bridge
#20
06-04-2016, 10:36 AM
Are you talking about manually engaging the CDL by turning a bolt on the trans? Further details...?
Thanks, James