Just bought Ultragauge - now I知 f******
So I致e had the disco for about 4k miles now. Everything runs great. But I decided to buy it he ultragauge for obvious reasons..
now I have few issues that came up
my temps are avg 230 and range from 220-235? Seems pretty hot to me! I致e been meaning to change my coolant,, I was thinking since car runs well maybe it just has bad coolant. Thoughts?
I知 also getting a p0340 code which seems to be a nightmare? My car runs amazing. So I was thinking it痴 just the sensor that痴 tucked,
Lastly, when the hell does the gas gauges on my discovery says it has - miles left? Like -22 miles..
thoughts and opinions would be appreciated!
Thanks!
now I have few issues that came up
my temps are avg 230 and range from 220-235? Seems pretty hot to me! I致e been meaning to change my coolant,, I was thinking since car runs well maybe it just has bad coolant. Thoughts?
I知 also getting a p0340 code which seems to be a nightmare? My car runs amazing. So I was thinking it痴 just the sensor that痴 tucked,
Lastly, when the hell does the gas gauges on my discovery says it has - miles left? Like -22 miles..
thoughts and opinions would be appreciated!
Thanks!
That does seem quite hot! But the proof is in the pudding as they say, if it runs great and not making any unusual noises you have have avoided damage so far. The problem is that you may have been running cooler in the past and now you've developed some issue that is causing you to get hot and you have no record of the history of your temps. The temp sensor is a cheap part so you could replace that but honestly, what you want to do ASAP is get Extinct's inline thermostat mod (sticky at the top of the forum). It's the best money you can spend on the D2 and if everything else is working properly it will get your temperatures down considerably and if your temps don't go down right away you know you've got other issues but at least the inline mod won't be a "sunk cost" because you'll want it anyway!
Last edited by greisinb; Dec 16, 2021 at 04:06 PM.
If you are hearing the electric cooling fan come on when your not running the AC (I think it comes on at 212 degrees), you probably need to change the thermostat. Be sure to get a genuine LR 180 degree model.
Based on the thread title I first thought you were blaming the Ultragauge.
In many instances, overheating results from a loss of coolant. Is your truck losing coolant? If there is coolant in the coolant reservoir a leak is not the problem. If your truck is losing coolant address that first.
Let's think about how the cooling system works. It's designed for the coolant temp to be in a range that, on the low end, provides for efficient operation, etc., and on the high end, prevents overheating that damages the engine (e.g. the headgaskets).
The thermostat controls the low end by remaining closed until the coolant reaches the thermostat's specified opening temp. Coolant then begins to flow. As long as the thermostat opens, the high-end temp is governed by the efficiency of the radiator to dissipate heat. If the thermostat doesn't open or doesn't open fully, the coolant will overheat. This happened in my truck nearly six years ago. The thermostat was stuck closed. I replaced the thermostat and all has been well since.
I may be wrong about this, but if the thermostat in your truck isn't opening I'd think it would be running even hotter. According to the RAVE workshop manual, the coolant temp warning lamp illuminates when the temp reaches 250ーF. Your running temps are 20 degrees lower than that. That said, they are still higher than I recall for my truck from before I switched to the 180ー thermostat, and therefore, the thermostat may not be opening fully.
Greisnb recommends the inline thermostat mod. There's nothing wrong with doing that, but unless the thermostat in your truck isn't opening or isn't opening fully it will do nothing to keep your truck's temps down.
You can remove the thermostat and test its operation visually in a pot of water on your stove. If the water starts to boil and the thermostat isn’t fully open it’s malfunctioning and should be replaced. If it’s fully open when the water starts to boil, that points to the radiator not cooling efficiently and it needs to be replaced.
As always, diagnose, diagnose, diagnose instead of throwing parts at a problem and hoping they solve the problem.
In many instances, overheating results from a loss of coolant. Is your truck losing coolant? If there is coolant in the coolant reservoir a leak is not the problem. If your truck is losing coolant address that first.
Let's think about how the cooling system works. It's designed for the coolant temp to be in a range that, on the low end, provides for efficient operation, etc., and on the high end, prevents overheating that damages the engine (e.g. the headgaskets).
The thermostat controls the low end by remaining closed until the coolant reaches the thermostat's specified opening temp. Coolant then begins to flow. As long as the thermostat opens, the high-end temp is governed by the efficiency of the radiator to dissipate heat. If the thermostat doesn't open or doesn't open fully, the coolant will overheat. This happened in my truck nearly six years ago. The thermostat was stuck closed. I replaced the thermostat and all has been well since.
I may be wrong about this, but if the thermostat in your truck isn't opening I'd think it would be running even hotter. According to the RAVE workshop manual, the coolant temp warning lamp illuminates when the temp reaches 250ーF. Your running temps are 20 degrees lower than that. That said, they are still higher than I recall for my truck from before I switched to the 180ー thermostat, and therefore, the thermostat may not be opening fully.
Greisnb recommends the inline thermostat mod. There's nothing wrong with doing that, but unless the thermostat in your truck isn't opening or isn't opening fully it will do nothing to keep your truck's temps down.
You can remove the thermostat and test its operation visually in a pot of water on your stove. If the water starts to boil and the thermostat isn’t fully open it’s malfunctioning and should be replaced. If it’s fully open when the water starts to boil, that points to the radiator not cooling efficiently and it needs to be replaced.
As always, diagnose, diagnose, diagnose instead of throwing parts at a problem and hoping they solve the problem.
Second the inline thermostat mod. It would be the first thing I would do if I purchased another disco. For your hi temps, get a temp gun, will help determine if it really is running that hot. Not sure what your ambient temps are, but my disco ran close to that temp 225-230 down here in South Florida before I installed the inline thermostat. Definitely would change coolant !
Based on the thread title I first thought you were blaming the Ultragauge.
In many instances, overheating results from a loss of coolant. Is your truck losing coolant? If there is coolant in the coolant reservoir a leak is not the problem. If your truck is losing coolant address that first.
Let's think about how the cooling system works. It's designed for the coolant temp to be in a range that, on the low end, provides for efficient operation, etc., and on the high end, prevents overheating that damages the engine (e.g. the headgaskets).
The thermostat controls the low end by remaining closed until the coolant reaches the thermostat's specified opening temp. Coolant then begins to flow. As long as the thermostat opens, the high-end temp is governed by the efficiency of the radiator to dissipate heat. If the thermostat doesn't open or doesn't open fully, the coolant will overheat. This happened in my truck nearly six years ago. The thermostat was stuck closed. I replaced the thermostat and all has been well since.
I may be wrong about this, but if the thermostat in your truck isn't opening I'd think it would be running even hotter. According to the RAVE workshop manual, the coolant temp warning lamp illuminates when the temp reaches 250ーF. Your running temps are 20 degrees lower than that. That said, they are still higher than I recall for my truck from before I switched to the 180ー thermostat, and therefore, the thermostat may not be opening fully.
Greisnb recommends the inline thermostat mod. There's nothing wrong with doing that, but unless the thermostat in your truck isn't opening or isn't opening fully it will do nothing to keep your truck's temps down.
You can remove the thermostat and test its operation visually in a pot of water on your stove. If the water starts to boil and the thermostat isn稚 fully open it痴 malfunctioning and should be replaced. If it痴 fully open when the water starts to boil, that points to the radiator not cooling efficiently and it needs to be replaced.
As always, diagnose, diagnose, diagnose instead of throwing parts at a problem and hoping they solve the problem.
In many instances, overheating results from a loss of coolant. Is your truck losing coolant? If there is coolant in the coolant reservoir a leak is not the problem. If your truck is losing coolant address that first.
Let's think about how the cooling system works. It's designed for the coolant temp to be in a range that, on the low end, provides for efficient operation, etc., and on the high end, prevents overheating that damages the engine (e.g. the headgaskets).
The thermostat controls the low end by remaining closed until the coolant reaches the thermostat's specified opening temp. Coolant then begins to flow. As long as the thermostat opens, the high-end temp is governed by the efficiency of the radiator to dissipate heat. If the thermostat doesn't open or doesn't open fully, the coolant will overheat. This happened in my truck nearly six years ago. The thermostat was stuck closed. I replaced the thermostat and all has been well since.
I may be wrong about this, but if the thermostat in your truck isn't opening I'd think it would be running even hotter. According to the RAVE workshop manual, the coolant temp warning lamp illuminates when the temp reaches 250ーF. Your running temps are 20 degrees lower than that. That said, they are still higher than I recall for my truck from before I switched to the 180ー thermostat, and therefore, the thermostat may not be opening fully.
Greisnb recommends the inline thermostat mod. There's nothing wrong with doing that, but unless the thermostat in your truck isn't opening or isn't opening fully it will do nothing to keep your truck's temps down.
You can remove the thermostat and test its operation visually in a pot of water on your stove. If the water starts to boil and the thermostat isn稚 fully open it痴 malfunctioning and should be replaced. If it痴 fully open when the water starts to boil, that points to the radiator not cooling efficiently and it needs to be replaced.
As always, diagnose, diagnose, diagnose instead of throwing parts at a problem and hoping they solve the problem.
Wasn稚 expecting, this much love and support from you the forums! I was exactly thinking about the thermostat since temp is stable around 230 on hour or two drives.. but thought I wanted to see what people here think.
Everything seems normal, coolant is good, just haven稚 changed it since I owned. I think I知 going to read more about Extincts thermostat but will most likely get it if that痴 what everyone is suggesting!
appreciate the help.
anyone have an idea, why the gas gauge on ultragauge is negative though? I find that so weird?.. the trucks gauge is normal!
Everything seems normal, coolant is good, just haven稚 changed it since I owned. I think I知 going to read more about Extincts thermostat but will most likely get it if that痴 what everyone is suggesting!
appreciate the help.
anyone have an idea, why the gas gauge on ultragauge is negative though? I find that so weird?.. the trucks gauge is normal!
The computer in the truck has no ability to calculate mpg or miles remaining... The UG does this only because you have to enter in when you fill up and zero out the mile indicator. The UG just makes estimates based on past history.
Therefore no big mystery with a negative number there, that just means that you haven't set up a system that doesn't work anyway.
Got it?
LOL.
Therefore no big mystery with a negative number there, that just means that you haven't set up a system that doesn't work anyway.
Got it?
LOL.
I measured such high temperatures as well. Replaced thermostat, fan, radiator and did a thorough flush. Now temps are in the 180s. Turned out that the fan clutch was shot and the radiator partially blocked. The 180 thermostat makes the biggest difference, but worn parts should be replaced nonetheless. If it's a '03 or '04 I would consider adding an oil cooler, since the coolant temp doesn't equal the oil temp.
I measured such high temperatures as well. Replaced thermostat, fan, radiator and did a thorough flush. Now temps are in the 180s. Turned out that the fan clutch was shot and the radiator partially blocked. The 180 thermostat makes the biggest difference, but worn parts should be replaced nonetheless. If it's a '03 or '04 I would consider adding an oil cooler, since the coolant temp doesn't equal the oil temp.


