Ok,
I, in addition to my Rover, have a F-350 PSD (powerstroke diesel). It's my other toy/work rig, and I tow with it ALL the time, logs and finished lumber (my day job.....)

Its the Dually, long bed, AKA the monster.

The reason I am posting this on here is that the powerstroke forums are typically dudes who want 48" tires, pipes, and are compensating out the yin-yang....I need some honest opinions, and so here you are:

Here's my issue, and I'm sure its popped up on some Disco's as well. I'll also preface this by saying I really enjoy being able to stop....

I keep eating up brake rotors!! They will go for 3-5K miles, and then warp or crack. I've got ceramo-metallic pads, grease/tune my floating caliper guide pins, changed out to DOT5 brake fluid, and am still heating the bastards up.....I currently run the Ford Motorcraft (OE replacement) with the premium pads.

So I'm looking at brakes, seeing as how I really need them. Nothing like weighing 24K Lbs and having to stop on shaky brakes.....

So, guys, anyone out there using EBC brakes/pads? I've been shopping them around, and a full truck upgrade (both axles) to dimpled/slotted & pads is about $900 in parts - not a light decision, but I do need to upgrade and need some opinions/suggestions.

I've seen about 5 brands that look good, and wanted to ask about cross-drilled vs. dimpled. This truck sees very little off road use (hunting/fishing trips 3-4 times a year), and I really depend on these to save me on the road. It seems that the main complaint about cross-drilled is the mud/crud they store in the holes.

EBC vs. Brembo vs. Evolution vs. Brakeperformance.com? Others?

What about calipers?

Any other brand reccomendations out there? Thoughts on cross-drilled vs. dimpled vs. slotted? It seems that my primary enemy here is the heat generated when I am braking a heavy load. Please let me know your thoughts on this, as this repair is going to happen SOON!!

And my flatbed trailer has GREAT brakes, before anyone asks - I just did the both axles on it last month.

Thanks in advance!

 

If you are thinking about up-grading your rotors go with the DBA's as a slotted and drilled rotor. Dimples don't vent of the hot gases from the pads like a drilled thru hole will.
Have you researched the upper end EBC pads, yellow stuff and up, may be a way to go.

 

Only 3k? I have to ask do you brake with your left foot?

 

well I was going to suggest adjusting your trailer brakes a bit tighter to help relieve some of the load but you say they are great so I don't think I will be much help, sorry

 

Things to look at:
left foot braking
stuck caliper pistons
improperly torqued lug nuts
Are the pads and rotors a good match

 

I hate to say it but that was one of fords worse designed brakes on there trucks. The pads and rotors are the same as f250s and they dont last long on them either. When i worked for napa i ordered them rotors by the pallet there way to small diameter and to thin for them heavy trucks. My neighbor pulls cattlte trailer with his same thing 3-5000 mile brake jobs. I know he tried drilled and slotted without much luck on his dually. Definatly stay away from ceramic brakes on it they get hot fast and stay hot. Just my 2 cents on your dually......Need to get yourself an f450 or f550 lots better braking setup on them.

 

Oh, I'd love a F-550, I just can't afford it right now....Just had to buy a forklift. Ouch.

but, are the parts for 450-550's swappable over to the F-350 axles? There is a wrecked F-450 that just came into the yard across from my building that I could go get some calipers/rotors, or even swap hubs out.

The lug nuts are torqued to spec with an air wrench...

Pistons seem good - I've lifted the truck and spun tires after braking and they roll well. No dragging noise. The warped rotors have very smooth surfaces, they're just warped to hell and back.

Maybe it is the heat from the ceramic pads. I just turned my rotors today, and will try popping on some different pads tomorrow. I've got a heavy load going out tomorrow, and we'll see what happens....

If that dosen't work, my mechanic buddy here has a F-350 that he's had good luck with drilled/slotted rotors. Or i can just keep turning them every 3-5K miles....It's only $20.00

 

Or,

Could you get arrange for a pallet of rotors to "fall off the truck" somewhere in central Atlanta??

 

I'd be surprised if the 450/550 parts would go on a 350. I *think* the 350s still classed as a light truck, and I'm certain the 550s a medium... and fairly certain the 450 is as well.

You could always get an F650 Pickup...

 

Why don't you just rig up some brake cooling ducts and leave the pads and rotors alone.