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knock sensor wiring cooked. where does it go?

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  #1  
Old 12-21-2016 | 02:08 PM
avpkres's Avatar
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Default knock sensor wiring cooked. where does it go?

Wiring is dried and cover off all the way up onto motor and under intake. I don't want to risk unsettling other harness wires. Where can I get to this wire and splice in new and reroute? Preferable inside or at the firewall. Sorry if this is covered somewhere else. couldn't find it.

edit: I had to stop for the afternoon. But, I did find 2 coax wires in the main harness loom that runs along the hood seal in front of the windshield. They are the only 2 in the loom that look like that. I am assuming thats bank 1 and 2 knock sensors. I don't have the supplies to do the work today. And I don't see a way to tell them apart yet.
 

Last edited by avpkres; 12-21-2016 at 02:28 PM.
  #2  
Old 12-21-2016 | 10:40 PM
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Originally Posted by avpkres
Wiring is dried and cover off all the way up onto motor and under intake. I don't want to risk unsettling other harness wires. Where can I get to this wire and splice in new and reroute? Preferable inside or at the firewall. Sorry if this is covered somewhere else. couldn't find it.

edit: I had to stop for the afternoon. But, I did find 2 coax wires in the main harness loom that runs along the hood seal in front of the windshield. They are the only 2 in the loom that look like that. I am assuming thats bank 1 and 2 knock sensors. I don't have the supplies to do the work today. And I don't see a way to tell them apart yet.
Do you have pictures? I think the wires for the knock sensors are from the front right behind the compressor mount. You should see some code like P0327-P0332 if the wires got grounded. Those codes won't show on the Check Engine light. I guess those wires towards the back are for the O2 sensors. Check if you have codes related to them if not connected.
 

Last edited by LR03NJ; 12-21-2016 at 11:17 PM.
  #3  
Old 12-22-2016 | 12:36 AM
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The knock sensor wires are coax looking (shielded) and split to individual wires just before the connector. They do travel through the main harness then through the upper intake along the fuel rail, and out the front just behind the compressor. They are a PITA to splice and super sensitive to electrical interference. I soldered mine when I made a repair and lengthened them, but had to redo it because the wires weren't in full contact within the solder. PITA!!!!! That still didn't do it, so I had to go in a third time and that time I used electrical tape and marine heat shrink. That worked. It sounds ridiculous but mine were held by electrical tape inside shrink tubing from the factory.
 

Last edited by Charlie_V; 12-22-2016 at 12:38 AM.
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  #4  
Old 12-22-2016 | 09:50 AM
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If you know about coax sorry for this but coax is a shielded cable and it needs the shield intact to protect the low voltage signal riding on the inner conductor. A simple splice will not do the job. The shield has to be maintained around the center conductor 100% for the cables to deliver the correct data to the computer.

I had one get pinched somehow, my mechanic took one from a spare wiring harness he had laying around and replaced the bad one entirely. A much easier and faster fix. You might check with some of the used parts suppliers on here for an intact cable.
 
  #5  
Old 12-23-2016 | 07:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Dave03S
If you know about coax sorry for this but coax is a shielded cable and it needs the shield intact to protect the low voltage signal riding on the inner conductor. A simple splice will not do the job. The shield has to be maintained around the center conductor 100% for the cables to deliver the correct data to the computer.

I had one get pinched somehow, my mechanic took one from a spare wiring harness he had laying around and replaced the bad one entirely. A much easier and faster fix. You might check with some of the used parts suppliers on here for an intact cable.
I agree. Maybe I was not clear. The factory coax is spliced at the end. I've had my Disco since new in 2000. When I opened the tubing near the connector, it was spliced with electrical tape. I thought that was shoddy. Since my Disco has only been in a shop two times (for fluid changes--ive done everything else), I'm confident that's the way the cable came from the factory.
 
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