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Knocking noise

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  #11  
Old 10-24-2012, 09:17 AM
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Ok, i just spoke to my mechanic. He assures me the timing chain is good and not the problem, they have also verified the rods and they are not bent.

What else could be causing this?
 
  #12  
Old 10-24-2012, 09:30 AM
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Never heard of such a thing.
Your oil passages must be plugged good.

You need that engine pulled out.
The whole block hot tanked and rebuilt to clean out the oil passages.

I would run VERY THIN synthetic for a time with Seafoam in the oil to try to unblock the oil passages.

But, that will not work.
You gotta just get a new engine or get this one rebuilt.
Unfortunately it is totally plugged up with gunk.

I have never heard of such horrific failures..

Actually----
Someone MAY HAVE UNHOOKED your oil pressure light - used car dealer.
To hid OIL PRESSURE PROBLEMS.
Does you oil pressure light come on when the key is first turned on??
the oil can which is RED??

Your oil pump on the front of the engine may be defective and starving the engine...

The gears in there break.


Your homework is:

1) Does your oil light come on with the key first turned on but not starting?

2) Report your VIN to us.
Some 2003's have problems with the oil pump bad from the factory.
The lore is - some engine builder came in on a certain shift and did not assy the oil pumps correctly in 2003.
 
  #13  
Old 10-24-2012, 07:16 PM
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Yes oil light turns on with key when starting, then immediately off. Oil pump was checked and running good, compression tests on cylinders good.
I dont have vin number right now but i will post it for you as soon as i can get it.
I know 2003 models have had a lot of problems due to oil pump, mine is 2002 so i hope mine does not suffer from this too...
 
  #14  
Old 10-24-2012, 08:20 PM
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Okay bud,

1: you still want to get a oil pressure test done

2: how and who varified this knock is at top?

3: does noise get louder as you rev engine?

4: your engine is not necessarily screwed although its totally filthy. You can get some of the gunk that's in there out but it will require you changing the oil frequently and using some chemicals.

5: your vin# does not mean squat on your truck as its a 2002

6: don't panic and give me some more info before you mess with it any further

As for replacing the two lifters why did he do that? And I would have him or you take it home and replace all the push rods regardless and while your in there clean as much as possible and then use a vac to suck any chunks out. Use a tooth brush and degreaser and clean clean.
 
  #15  
Old 10-24-2012, 09:11 PM
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1- i will ask them to perform one if they have not done it and ask for result. I"ll let you know result.
2-knock on top, well thats from where it seems to be coming from. Mechanic agrees thats where its coming from. Truck is at the shop, its close to home so i go frequently and check up on it.
3- i dont think noise was getting louder when reving up.
They replaced the two lifters thinking that was where the "TAC TAC TAC" was coming from.
I went this morning and asked him if they had checked the timing chain & sprockets, checked for bent push rods etc.He said Yes and gave me the "you gotta be kidding me look"
I beleive this work is being done under warranty since knocking noise started after they worked on replacing the broken rocker arm and 100 miles later the coil & cables. I did notice that noise "TAC TAC TAC" was light when i picked it up from shop and during those 100 miles it was getting louder.
 
  #16  
Old 10-24-2012, 09:55 PM
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Well if they have experience with motors in general it is not hard to find where a knock or tap or tic is coming from. There us only a few places a knock or tick or tap generates from. But you really need to know if its warranty or not because you could end up with a outrageous bill at the end. You should be giving him the "you gotta be kidding me look" he has had it for long enough to figure it out.
 

Last edited by lr2001silver; 10-24-2012 at 09:58 PM.
  #17  
Old 10-25-2012, 01:20 AM
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IMHO you would want to know what the oil PSI readings were at idle and 2500 rpm, both cold and warmed up. Wear on valve train can allow oil psi to be low, so can wear on the main bearings. Pix attached. When warmed up, engine should make 10+ PSI at idle, and 50 PSI at 2500 rpm. You need to be using an oil that ends in "w40" or "w50". Not "W30". New lifters can have the annoying habit of chewing up a old camshaft. BTW, oil pumps can be cracked...
 
Attached Thumbnails Knocking noise-oil-pump.jpg   Knocking noise-30023360469_large.jpg   Knocking noise-30023360413_large.jpg  
  #18  
Old 10-25-2012, 07:21 AM
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how bad is the camshaft worn that they had to replace lifters and was it #7?
 
  #19  
Old 10-27-2012, 07:31 PM
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Got my truck from shop. They gave up! They cant find where the noise is coming from without continuing to change parts trying to find the problem. The last thing they did was replace two lifters, changed oil & filter. Charged me only for the oil change... They said use it to see if it goes away, recomended me to add a pro long engine treatment, wich i did, with no change, also aded an STP oil treatment and this did nothing also. The wierd thing is that when cold start it does not sound at all, as the engine warms up it starts getting louder until you can hear it from inside the cab. TAC TAC TAC ... Very loud ! Anoying & embarrasing. Now why would it not make noise cold and start to sound when it heats up??????????? What can this be???
 
  #20  
Old 10-27-2012, 07:37 PM
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Thta is more likely what is commonly called "the tick". It happens for some small things, but the major fear is that a cylinder liner starts slipping when engine warms up, slides back and forth and taps on the fire ring of the head gasket. It is not a bad gasket. It can happen if engine has been overheated, the liners break loose from the block.

Now, if you will search this forum you will find posts about owners solving this problem by having mechanic or DIY pin the liners.
 


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