Knocking sound on front driver's side, need CV joint?
#1
Knocking sound on front driver's side, need CV joint?
I am hearing a knocking sound from the front driver's side. I just replaced the driveshaft with a BPU one and it doesn't seem drive shaft related. The sound is not dependent on engine speed and doesn't present itself as a consistent knocking.
Right now, it only happens ones every few minutes and for a few seconds. I noticed it the worst as I was headed up a mountain road and it was twisty.
I am thinking it is the CV joint. I see AB sells one but there is not much information about it. If I am going to tackle this, what else should I do why I am in there? I just replaced the engine on this truck, and plan on keeping it for a long while, so I would rather get ahead of any other problems. At 140k miles I am sure there are other things that need replacing.
Thanks!
Right now, it only happens ones every few minutes and for a few seconds. I noticed it the worst as I was headed up a mountain road and it was twisty.
I am thinking it is the CV joint. I see AB sells one but there is not much information about it. If I am going to tackle this, what else should I do why I am in there? I just replaced the engine on this truck, and plan on keeping it for a long while, so I would rather get ahead of any other problems. At 140k miles I am sure there are other things that need replacing.
Thanks!
#2
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: St. Clair County, Michigan
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Did this noise develope suddenly or has it been getting worse with time or was it there since you bought vehicle?
If it is a rotational type of knocking noise, somewhat constant while turning...could be CV joints. Drive slowly in a circle, hard locked the one direction, then hard locked the other. See if it is more prevalent during one way or the other. Usually, you'll get a defined pop or knock noise if CV is bad doing this. But, it's usually pretty constant...as the wheel rotates...under a hard turn condition...knock, pause, knock, pause, etc. Unless totally wasted.
You can also slip a long prybar in between the axle housing and inner portion of the axle shaft and look for any irregular movement, up-down. Axle shaft should somewhat be centered in the CV joint, also. If it looks low or misaligned...probably CV joint gone bad. Usually, you'll get a little "lumpy" feel in the steering wheel, while turning, if joint is bad.
If it is the joint and you are pulling them out for replacement. I'd go ahead and change ball-joints...if they are original or you do not know history (unless they look new or something).
Brian.
If it is a rotational type of knocking noise, somewhat constant while turning...could be CV joints. Drive slowly in a circle, hard locked the one direction, then hard locked the other. See if it is more prevalent during one way or the other. Usually, you'll get a defined pop or knock noise if CV is bad doing this. But, it's usually pretty constant...as the wheel rotates...under a hard turn condition...knock, pause, knock, pause, etc. Unless totally wasted.
You can also slip a long prybar in between the axle housing and inner portion of the axle shaft and look for any irregular movement, up-down. Axle shaft should somewhat be centered in the CV joint, also. If it looks low or misaligned...probably CV joint gone bad. Usually, you'll get a little "lumpy" feel in the steering wheel, while turning, if joint is bad.
If it is the joint and you are pulling them out for replacement. I'd go ahead and change ball-joints...if they are original or you do not know history (unless they look new or something).
Brian.
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Jason_B (10-17-2018)
#3
Did this noise develope suddenly or has it been getting worse with time or was it there since you bought vehicle?
If it is a rotational type of knocking noise, somewhat constant while turning...could be CV joints. Drive slowly in a circle, hard locked the one direction, then hard locked the other. See if it is more prevalent during one way or the other. Usually, you'll get a defined pop or knock noise if CV is bad doing this. But, it's usually pretty constant...as the wheel rotates...under a hard turn condition...knock, pause, knock, pause, etc. Unless totally wasted.
You can also slip a long prybar in between the axle housing and inner portion of the axle shaft and look for any irregular movement, up-down. Axle shaft should somewhat be centered in the CV joint, also. If it looks low or misaligned...probably CV joint gone bad. Usually, you'll get a little "lumpy" feel in the steering wheel, while turning, if joint is bad.
If it is the joint and you are pulling them out for replacement. I'd go ahead and change ball-joints...if they are original or you do not know history (unless they look new or something).
Brian.
If it is a rotational type of knocking noise, somewhat constant while turning...could be CV joints. Drive slowly in a circle, hard locked the one direction, then hard locked the other. See if it is more prevalent during one way or the other. Usually, you'll get a defined pop or knock noise if CV is bad doing this. But, it's usually pretty constant...as the wheel rotates...under a hard turn condition...knock, pause, knock, pause, etc. Unless totally wasted.
You can also slip a long prybar in between the axle housing and inner portion of the axle shaft and look for any irregular movement, up-down. Axle shaft should somewhat be centered in the CV joint, also. If it looks low or misaligned...probably CV joint gone bad. Usually, you'll get a little "lumpy" feel in the steering wheel, while turning, if joint is bad.
If it is the joint and you are pulling them out for replacement. I'd go ahead and change ball-joints...if they are original or you do not know history (unless they look new or something).
Brian.
At this point the noise is very slight. With the radio on a little bit you would totally miss it. I noticed it as I was paying close attention to any vibrations to make sure the new driveshaft was good to go.
Thanks for the tips regarding the hard turning left and right, I will do that in a few here and report back.
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The Deputy (10-18-2018)
#4
Join Date: Oct 2016
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Another area to check, if the knock/popping noise happens while turning the wheel from side to side, but while not moving, would be the steering shaft. There are two joints on the shaft and they will knock/clunk/pop if wornout. But again, you will get this noise by just turning the steering wheel from side to side, while vehicle is not moving.
Brian.
Brian.
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Jason_B (10-18-2018)
#5
Another area to check, if the knock/popping noise happens while turning the wheel from side to side, but while not moving, would be the steering shaft. There are two joints on the shaft and they will knock/clunk/pop if wornout. But again, you will get this noise by just turning the steering wheel from side to side, while vehicle is not moving.
Brian.
Brian.
If it is the CV joints, would this be a good set of parts to order?:
1 X : Ball Joint Kit, 2 Upper & 2 Lower Ball Joints For Discovery Series II And Range Rover P38
2 X: CV Joint Discovery II
Would I need any grease, lube, nuts, bolts or other accessories?
#6
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Ball joint kit sounds reasonable. Me, I'd check with Paul or Abran about the availability of a good used set of front axles, complete...or go to a junk yard and find a pair.
Yes, some anti- seize, WD40, assembly lube. You'll need a good hammer or ball joint removing tool (rent one) and a good set of tools. The hub nut is a pretty tight fit, torque wise...so you will need to break that loose with a breaker bar (possibly 3/4) or impact.
Brian.
Yes, some anti- seize, WD40, assembly lube. You'll need a good hammer or ball joint removing tool (rent one) and a good set of tools. The hub nut is a pretty tight fit, torque wise...so you will need to break that loose with a breaker bar (possibly 3/4) or impact.
Brian.
#7
Okay, so I am thinking it might not be CV joint, or at least the symptoms don't line up. I turned hard over on both sides and the noise doesn't really appear. It only appears under acceleration, and will happen when accelerating in a straight line.
The noise occurs when acceleration quickly from a stop (not flooring it, but medium fast acceleration). If I baby it (0-30 in 10 seconds) there is no noise. Once I get to 25-30 MPH I almost never hear the noise but once or twice I have.
Even though the shop replaced all the diff and t-case fluids, I am going to check their levels and add some fluid if needed tonight. I am also thinking about swapping back to the stock driveshaft to see if that resolves the problem.
Is there a possibility that something is wrong with the new driveshaft?
The sound is distinctly on the front drivers side, it doesn't really sound like it is coming from the diff side, but could be.
The noise occurs when acceleration quickly from a stop (not flooring it, but medium fast acceleration). If I baby it (0-30 in 10 seconds) there is no noise. Once I get to 25-30 MPH I almost never hear the noise but once or twice I have.
Even though the shop replaced all the diff and t-case fluids, I am going to check their levels and add some fluid if needed tonight. I am also thinking about swapping back to the stock driveshaft to see if that resolves the problem.
The sound is distinctly on the front drivers side, it doesn't really sound like it is coming from the diff side, but could be.
Last edited by Jason_B; 10-19-2018 at 05:20 PM.
#9
#10
UPDATE:
The sound is happening with both the old and the new driveshaft, so lets rule out the driveshaft for now.
I opened the diff fill plug and the t-case fill plug and both were full. I added a little gear oil to each, but it just came out right away since they were full.
The distinctly sounds like a rattling or clunking that happens in the engine compartment on the drivers side.
I could reproduce when the vehicle was not moving but you could not hear the sound from outside the vehicle. It really sounds like it is coming from the steering shaft area but it is mostly present when accelerating in a straight line. I am starting to think it is not driveline related. It doesn't change based on wheel speed, engine speed, driveshaft speed, etc...
Unless anyone has any great ideas here I will probably just mention it to my mechanic when I take the vehicle back for the 500 mile oil change on the new engine and otherwise not worry about it. I already changed the oil at 50 miles and don't mind doing it myself but I want the oil change documented in the mechanic's records in case there are any warranty needs with Turner.
Any ideas?
Thanks and have a good night!
The sound is happening with both the old and the new driveshaft, so lets rule out the driveshaft for now.
I opened the diff fill plug and the t-case fill plug and both were full. I added a little gear oil to each, but it just came out right away since they were full.
The distinctly sounds like a rattling or clunking that happens in the engine compartment on the drivers side.
I could reproduce when the vehicle was not moving but you could not hear the sound from outside the vehicle. It really sounds like it is coming from the steering shaft area but it is mostly present when accelerating in a straight line. I am starting to think it is not driveline related. It doesn't change based on wheel speed, engine speed, driveshaft speed, etc...
Unless anyone has any great ideas here I will probably just mention it to my mechanic when I take the vehicle back for the 500 mile oil change on the new engine and otherwise not worry about it. I already changed the oil at 50 miles and don't mind doing it myself but I want the oil change documented in the mechanic's records in case there are any warranty needs with Turner.
Any ideas?
Thanks and have a good night!