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Knocking, Strange oil Leak, Head Gaskets leak too

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Old Jun 23, 2015 | 10:25 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by dusty1
so are we thinking the oil scraper ring forced oil out of the threaded "pins" bolts?. .....
so is it plausible that the little bolts simply backed out, from lack of tension of thread locker? curious
I would imagine they just were a temp and poor fix. that's why they were leaking. Could have built up pressure tho. Not sure. Have not pulled off the front cover.

Question about getting a block with new liners; is their one you can get that's been updated? Fixes that issue? I been reading about getting the liners top hatted ? From a local machine shop? I read a bit here "http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-2/72474-pinning-slipped-liner-d2-v8-thoughts.html"


drowssap seemed to think you know about getting this done possible.
 
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Old Jun 23, 2015 | 10:28 AM
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Abran (email down there in my jumbling of a signature V)
Sold me a block and got it hatted, local to him, Before shipping. Might not hurt to ask him
 
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Old Jun 23, 2015 | 10:29 AM
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Where are you located?
 
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Old Jun 23, 2015 | 10:40 AM
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Originally Posted by dusty1
Where are you located?
Ok cool. I'm in Norfolk, VA. Navy hub of the USA. So it sounds like I might be able to get a block already top hatted and updated ?

What do you think about trying to find a machine shop to do top hatting on mine ? Perhaps local. have to checked around yet, this is all new still.
 
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Old Jun 23, 2015 | 12:48 PM
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finding a reputable local shop, that was willing to do it, was my issue. you may be able to find one up there
 
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Old Jun 23, 2015 | 02:19 PM
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Originally Posted by dusty1
finding a reputable local shop, that was willing to do it, was my issue. you may be able to find one up there
I be calling around I suppose. This sucks but I did call

D&D Fabrications.
D&D Fabrications, Inc. Independent Supplier of Premium Engine Parts and Services for Range Rover, Land Rover, Discovery I, Discovery II, and Defender engines.

Said he wanted 2200$ but I have to send him my own block. Problem is.... Its got holes in it lol.

So I read " My DIY Cylinder Liner/Sleeve Removal & Top-Hat Install - VIDEO & PICS inside - Land Rover Forums : Land Rover and Range Rover Forum " and looks like he got it done for 1200$ with a little work him self. He was in FL some where. Some one here has got to be able to do, so I'll keep calling around.

I did also email that guy you spoke of. Maybe he will have something.
 

Last edited by thearmlesswonder; Jun 23, 2015 at 02:21 PM.
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Old Jun 24, 2015 | 06:28 AM
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the cost is usually just shy of 1500 but you will have to supply a block.
you will also want someone who has done sleeves in a rover block.
there is at least on story on here about someone bring there block to a local machine shop and i believe the out come was not good.
 
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Old Jun 25, 2015 | 09:38 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by drowssap
the cost is usually just shy of 1500 but you will have to supply a block.
you will also want someone who has done sleeves in a rover block.
there is at least on story on here about someone bring there block to a local machine shop and i believe the out come was not good.
I dont mind the 1500 but not sure what service you are quoting. I talked to Abran, the one Dusty spoke of but it was around 2200+.

I am going to remove the motor today hopefully. Messed around with it a little yesterday. I plan on mounting to my stand tonight.

I'll keep the post updated
 
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Old Jun 25, 2015 | 10:13 AM
  #19  
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check LA sleeve they used to change $80 a liner and $80 to install
 
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Old Jun 28, 2015 | 10:59 AM
  #20  
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I have not got a chance to call LA Sleeves. I got the motor out and it has been inspected. Both of my certified people have gave it an okay on the crank and other components. Oil gear was in half when pulling it out and the guy who did the pinning of the cylinder sleeves, did a ****ty job of drilling. When he drilled the holes, the bit walked all over. Better bits and a punch ??? and the screws don't sit flat .. plus were over tightened.

So this is what i'm going to do before I replace the motor. Re-tap the holes slightly bigger and use sew hex screws with a cold weld that they are dipped in. JB weld meets the specs so far. There are a few small chunks that are not deep nor big; around the drilled holes. From the bit walking most likely.

I have methods to prevent metal shavings and glue from getting on the inside cylinder wall. Plus not sticking out any. I will document.

So going to order my sun gear for the oil pump from Atlantic British with the gasket kit. Unless there's a stronger one that has been produced ?

Didnt look like according from this post. https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...t-40174/page3/
 
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