'04 D2 V8

Probably a silly question, I'm getting the common Limp Mode (flashing M+S lights) triggering when changing between Reverse and Drive.

My Ultragauge shows 0 codes pending or otherwise, but if I 'Clear Codes' it stops Limp Mode until I shift Drive -> Reverse -> Drive again.

I have no access to a Nanocom near me, and didn't plan on ponying up the £500 until the end of the year. Should the UG be showing codes if present, and if so how I am engaging Limp Mode with no codes? Or the UG sometimes just doesn't receive the codes depending on fault?

 

I have exactly the same issue. (And a couple more.)

I’m gonna start by checking the trans fluid level. Start easy.

 

For me it's battery terminal clamps and then battery cables (some visible corrosion), then onto XYZ, MAF... Just serviced the transmission and there's no puddles under the truck so I'd hope that it's ok!

Just a concern that the Ultraguage is returning no codes but 'clearing codes' still works, as I was hoping to rely on it for quick diagnosis if something started acting up whilst using the vehicle.

 

BlackShama, limp mode and the flashing M+S lights are transmission fault indicators. The UltraGauge does not connect to the transmission ECU, that's why it doesn't show codes in these instances. And, I suppose it's possible that clearing codes with the UltraGauge works for you, but more than likely it's a coincidence, I think.

There are 14 transmission faults that can trigger the M+S lights, but overwhelming evidence on this and other forums over the last 20+ years indicates they're caused most often by low voltage to the transmission ECU. The transmission ECU is very finicky about voltage. Start by removing, cleaning, and reinstalling the battery clamps and the posts.

Oh, and this link may help too. I'd forgotten all about starting it nearly 10 years ago, but it will give you a couple other things to check, including having the battery tested.

https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...st-okay-54543/

Good luck, and let us know how it goes.

 

Thanks for clearing up my misconception with the Ultraguage. Neg terminal clamp was warped horrible from being overtightened onto a Jap-spec battery post (smaller than European posts). Decided I'd chop both clamps off, clean the copper cables and fit new clamps and see what happens. Just waiting for new lugs to arrive, fingers crossed.

 

Mine has the exact symptoms. I can clear the non existent code with the Ultragauge and it knocks the MS lights off.

I hooked up my Nanocom while the lights were flashing and it had P0705. (If I have done the UG trick, no fault shows.) Don't remember the exact listing for 0705, but was linked to XYZ switch. So began that little task.

Thank you mln01 for another thread where you explain taking that little b****er off. Helped me tremendously. Still took far longer than I would have liked.

Opened it up and found 1 dirty contact. No corrosion, or ingress of AC drain water. Plug was clean, seal was tight. That one contact just looked old. I can believe it was messing with the voltage getting to where it was supposed to go.

All back together with some nice little Allen screws and nuts. Re installed and so far so good.

If I don't see lights for a couple of days I’ll consider it a problem solved.

Will update.

OP, can you get hold of a Nanocom from somewhere, or have the trans codes read while the lights are flashing? (If its not your battery post issue)

 

New battery, cable ends, terminal clamps all done. No success. I think the original battery setup was giving me issues anyway as I'd often come to find the car had 'shorted' overnight and wouldn't hold a charge for more than week witohut running anyway, so not a total waste of money and time.

Nearest place I can find with a Nanocom is 180 miles, so looks like I'll have to pony up the cash earlier than I thought...

 

That or pull the XYZ and have a look. I saw a youtube clip of a guy who had the exact same gunk on the he same pin as mine. Sorted my problem.

 

XYZ off - lots of corrosion. One of the contacts fell clean off whilst gently rubbing with cleaner. Going to give a repair service a go since for 10% the cost of a new switch it's wroth a shot...

 

Looks like a winner to me.