looking at a 2000 Discovery
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Rock Crawling
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 293
Likes: 14
From: Newtown CT
CDL, center different lock? So how do I check for that? Or how is it disangaged?
i had one cap come apart I think i just grabbed the rest with needle nose pliers and unscrewed it.
someone changed out the speedometer and did not sync it with the other ecu's, also explains the mileage dropping 50K.
have'nt done it but the ebrake cable should'nt a killer.
if the tires are scuffing on slow turns, you may want to make sure the CDL is not locked.
someone changed out the speedometer and did not sync it with the other ecu's, also explains the mileage dropping 50K.
have'nt done it but the ebrake cable should'nt a killer.
if the tires are scuffing on slow turns, you may want to make sure the CDL is not locked.
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Rock Crawling
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 293
Likes: 14
From: Newtown CT
So that is something u manually turn under the truck to lock the center diff?
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Rock Crawling
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 293
Likes: 14
From: Newtown CT
I think I see the stud ur talking about. So do I just turn that stud with a box wrench/ Cresent wrench?
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Rock Crawling
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 293
Likes: 14
From: Newtown CT
So I should try and turn it clock wise to engage the diff lock and counter clock wise for dis-engaging CDL? Just turns 90 degree? More?
I'll be looking at it and possibly buying it tonight, so if I can unlock the CDL and everything drives fine without binding at lock, then I'm set to buy it.
I'll be looking at it and possibly buying it tonight, so if I can unlock the CDL and everything drives fine without binding at lock, then I'm set to buy it.
Pro Wrench
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 1,935
Likes: 189
From: Coastal Georgia
The lock may be engaged/disengaged by using a 10 mm open ended spanner on the flats machined on the differential lock selector shaft.
So I should try and turn it clock wise to engage the diff lock and counter clock wise for dis-engaging CDL?
Move differential lever on transfer gearbox fully forward to rotate selector shaft anti-clockwise into the non differential lock detent position.
CAUTION: Should the lever move past the detent, allow it to move back into the non differential lock detent position before adjusting the cable.
CAUTION: Should the lever move past the detent, allow it to move back into the non differential lock detent position before adjusting the cable.
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Rock Crawling
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 293
Likes: 14
From: Newtown CT
ok, so went to a kwik kar and there were 6 error codes, one for the evap system, and one for a knock sensor, and i should have wrote them down because i don't remember the other 4 codes that came up. also the guy said the check engine light doesn't work. so that explanes the gauge cluster change and the flashing odometer. so i didn't buy the car. it drives amazing, body and paint was excellent, but its really got like 230k miles on it rather then the advertised 180 on the gauge cluster. and it wouldn't pass state inspection the guy said too. i offered the guy $1700 and he didnt want less then $2200. so no deal tonight sadly. so search continues.
When I bought mine, it had those codes plus a bunch more and CEL stayed on.
Bought the knock sensor from local parts house, that code gone.
Evaporative code was purge valve, Bought the hyundai purge valve, that code is gone.
misfire on 2 cylinders on passengers side bank, new plugs(no change), new 8mm Kingsborne wires(no change), new coil pack from Advance Auto 70.00(code is gone)
SAI code, checked the hose from the SAI pump to hard metal pipes and there was a tear, used the aluminum A/C ductwork tape, code gone.
Drivers side catalytic code, installed the code eliminator(basically an extension housing that moves the O2 sensor away from exhaust flow, code gone
Rich mixture on bank 1, new Bosch upstream O2's, code gone.
All monitors reset and all passed after 2 days of driving, passed inspection.
3 months have passed and still no codes.
Bought the knock sensor from local parts house, that code gone.
Evaporative code was purge valve, Bought the hyundai purge valve, that code is gone.
misfire on 2 cylinders on passengers side bank, new plugs(no change), new 8mm Kingsborne wires(no change), new coil pack from Advance Auto 70.00(code is gone)
SAI code, checked the hose from the SAI pump to hard metal pipes and there was a tear, used the aluminum A/C ductwork tape, code gone.
Drivers side catalytic code, installed the code eliminator(basically an extension housing that moves the O2 sensor away from exhaust flow, code gone
Rich mixture on bank 1, new Bosch upstream O2's, code gone.
All monitors reset and all passed after 2 days of driving, passed inspection.
3 months have passed and still no codes.
Pro Wrench
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 1,935
Likes: 189
From: Coastal Georgia
Bought the knock sensor from local parts house, that code gone.
......