Looking for drive shaft
Hey im new to this site and i just got a doscovery not too long ago... Anyways, i was woundering where can i order a new drive shaft for a dicovery 2 2000? should i order it on the internet and have it shipped to my place? will it be more expensive than buying it from the dealer? if you guys have any useful links it will be more than appriciated!
Pls reply as soon as possible! thx!
Pls reply as soon as possible! thx!
If you are ordering, make sure it has greasable fittings. some places, dealer included will sell you a non-serviceable shaft. I will go out just like yours. Tom Woods makes a good shaft, or you can have yours re-built.
With a 2000, you can pull the shaft, manually lock the transfer case, have it re-built by a driveline shop, and re-install. Make sure to unlock the case before driving with both shafts installed. There is a nut on the top of the case you turn to lock it. Do a search on here.
With a 2000, you can pull the shaft, manually lock the transfer case, have it re-built by a driveline shop, and re-install. Make sure to unlock the case before driving with both shafts installed. There is a nut on the top of the case you turn to lock it. Do a search on here.
Beware of the advice you will find on this forum. If you buy an after-market drive shaft, it might come with one of the grease fitting's that can only be reached by disconnecting one end of the drive shaft. They should be greased every 5,000 miles or so, and this will add some time. (I'm sure some people here will say they can do this in 5 minutes or less.)
I replaced my original drive shaft ('99 DII) at about 80,000 with a $300 shaft from Great Basin. This lasted only about 40,000 miles. The I took it to a shop that rebuilt the shaft for $250, but they put in a front double cardan that has one of these difficult to reach grease fittings.
So, you might want to consider a no-grease-fitting OEM shaft.
I replaced my original drive shaft ('99 DII) at about 80,000 with a $300 shaft from Great Basin. This lasted only about 40,000 miles. The I took it to a shop that rebuilt the shaft for $250, but they put in a front double cardan that has one of these difficult to reach grease fittings.
So, you might want to consider a no-grease-fitting OEM shaft.
Beware of the advice you will find on this forum. If you buy an after-market drive shaft, it might come with one of the grease fitting's that can only be reached by disconnecting one end of the drive shaft. They should be greased every 5,000 miles or so, and this will add some time. (I'm sure some people here will say they can do this in 5 minutes or less.)
I replaced my original drive shaft ('99 DII) at about 80,000 with a $300 shaft from Great Basin. This lasted only about 40,000 miles. The I took it to a shop that rebuilt the shaft for $250, but they put in a front double cardan that has one of these difficult to reach grease fittings.
So, you might want to consider a no-grease-fitting OEM shaft.
I replaced my original drive shaft ('99 DII) at about 80,000 with a $300 shaft from Great Basin. This lasted only about 40,000 miles. The I took it to a shop that rebuilt the shaft for $250, but they put in a front double cardan that has one of these difficult to reach grease fittings.
So, you might want to consider a no-grease-fitting OEM shaft.
How can it NOT be reachable? You may have to turn the drive shaft a little to reach it, but I don't see having to drop it. I haven't had to drop mine, all of my fitting are accessible from under the truck, although sometimes I do have to turn the wheels or move the truck either way to get to the fittings, but never had to drop the shaft to grease it!
I'm just wondering.
Thanks and i'm interested in what kind of fitting those are so I can NOT refer other towards them in the future!!
Much appreciated,
BUT....Buying an OEM shaft doesn't rid you of the fact that it is a faulty design that will eventually fail and destroy your your transmission, t-case, and exhaust. There are pics posted somewhere showing the carnage a failed shaft can cause....it is an expensive gamble.
Plus, if you don't have the "time" to properly grease, or pay someone to grease your truck for you, you may want to consider owning something other than a Rover.
Beware of the advice you will find on this forum. If you buy an after-market drive shaft, it might come with one of the grease fitting's that can only be reached by disconnecting one end of the drive shaft. They should be greased every 5,000 miles or so, and this will add some time. (I'm sure some people here will say they can do this in 5 minutes or less.)
I replaced my original drive shaft ('99 DII) at about 80,000 with a $300 shaft from Great Basin. This lasted only about 40,000 miles. The I took it to a shop that rebuilt the shaft for $250, but they put in a front double cardan that has one of these difficult to reach grease fittings.
So, you might want to consider a no-grease-fitting OEM shaft.
I replaced my original drive shaft ('99 DII) at about 80,000 with a $300 shaft from Great Basin. This lasted only about 40,000 miles. The I took it to a shop that rebuilt the shaft for $250, but they put in a front double cardan that has one of these difficult to reach grease fittings.
So, you might want to consider a no-grease-fitting OEM shaft.
Some people have said they have to drop the CV end to lube the CV head fitting that's on the Tom Woods (and maybe others). Others have said they've managed to get to it without dropping it. I don't have one, so can't say.
To some degree the "beware" comment is true. I've seen people say to only lube it once or twice a year, or only pump in enough grease until you see some start to come from around a seal so you don't "blow the seals". Both statements are very much in the category of misinformation.
To some degree the "beware" comment is true. I've seen people say to only lube it once or twice a year, or only pump in enough grease until you see some start to come from around a seal so you don't "blow the seals". Both statements are very much in the category of misinformation.
I'd like to see the carnage photo! I am pursuing a 2000 Disco that had the front drive shaft fallout of it. Right cat and transmission pan are damaged but the trans itself is okay.
I's like to see if I can just pick up a drive shaft and throw it in where it sits. That would save me a towing bill to do a (maybe) easy repair at the house.
TIA,
Dave
I's like to see if I can just pick up a drive shaft and throw it in where it sits. That would save me a towing bill to do a (maybe) easy repair at the house.
TIA,
Dave


