Is the dealer the only option for the low range sensor switch for the tcase? Also I'm curious how it works, since it's to ding in neutral, then silence again in low range - its got to be more than a simple on-off switch, right?

Dave

 

There are two different sensors/switches. The one that makes it ding, and light up the warning on the dash, is the t-case neutral warning switch, it is just a switch. There is also a switch for detecting if low range is selected, but this is only used for the computers knowledge, for proper shifting, and ABS control.

 

And in addition to the dealer, a dismantler like Paul Grant may be an option.

 

Awesome, thanks for the pointers guys. That makes much more sense that there is another sensor for neutral warning vs low range. I was trying to figure out by the picture if the switch was a simple on-off switch or some sort of rheostat design to be able to signal low range and the neutral position with just a simple pushing one way. Makes much more sense!

I'll ask Paul Grant if he has one, good idea! Tonight I hope to slide under there, pull it out and see if there's a bad connection or if it's just dead.

DaveM

 

You may be surprised to see that one of the spade connection terminals busted off the switch. Happens a lot. I found mine that way. Have fun accessing the switch from underneath. It's a PIA. I accessed mine while installing my CDL linkage while the console was removed.

 

For anyone who has replaced this successfully: any tips on the right tool/technique to use to remove this from underneath the truck?

That's a really open space that just so happens to be really cramped. Seems like it'd be easy to get at, yet isn't. Stubby combo? O2 sensor socket? Flare nut adapter? ???

 

I need to replace mine, just replaced all the transfer case sensors not long ago and the low range switch has already failed again. It's a 19mm, I thought about improvising an 02 sensor style socket to remove it by buying a cheap socket and grinding a notch into the socket for the wires to sit in. 19mm crowsfoot or flare wrench might work also.


Would be a lot easier from the top but I'd rather not pull the console etc just for that.

 

I bought a set of flare nut "sockets." 19mm with a couple 3/8" socket extensions and a universal joint worked for me. The sensor broke loose without any effort at all. Then I stuck my arm up and over the driveshaft and t-case from the front. This reach allowed me to undo the electrical connector from the mount. I then held the electrical connector lock open (press on the wiring harness side) with that hand while using a long flat screwdriver in the other to separate the two halves of the connector.

With the right tools and an arm that will fit, this is a 10-minute job. I hope this helps someone.

Now to find if there's any way to resuscitate this sensor—bad wiring, a good cleaning, etc. I hate to spend money on something so crucial but seldom used.

 

Ghaniba, is there a post about exactly how you wired-up your in-cab switch?

 

Switch housing cut with dremel tool.

Switch re-assembled with some JB Weld.
For anyone interested, you can save yourself a 100 bucks and refurbish the hi lo switch instead of buying a replament. You can get at the guts by using a dremel on the switch housing.