Hello all. First post here. I have looked through the forums and learned a lot already. I am chasing my tail on an issue of the M&S lights flashing and causing the transmission to be in limp mode. Back story is bought used from family member who replaced a leaking transmission seal and could never get the disco to start again. Turns out he smashed the CKPS wire when the transmission was bolted together. I replaced this and I can get the disco to start and run fine. I have checked the trans fill level, however when i removed the transmission lines no fluid comes out of the transmission lines. Checked and cleaned the battery terminals. New battery. Voltage is good at 14.4 volts at idle. I removed the XYZ switch, drilled rivets, opened up, switch is good with no burnt contacts and clean clear grease inside of the switch. I tried to get the switch aligned again but i get no indicator on the dash of gear position. Even after clearing the P0705 code and turn the key forward the flashing lights come back immediately. I have driven the disco forwards and backwards with t-case in low with trans limp mode active. Where do i go next what can i test? Is there a resource for connector pin-outs and transmission/ecu logic that causes faults to illuminate? Thanks

 

Welcome. Strange beasts these Land Rover are.

Google and download the Land Rover Discovery 2 RAVE manual with the electrical circuit diagrams.
A P0705 code is definitely an XYZ switch circuit issue. Did you verify the XYZ switch connector is in good condition (no frayed or touching wires) and securely connected to the harness?
What is your standing battery voltage without the Disco running/charging? The flashing M&S and gearbox limp mode is almost certainly the result of voltage drop upon initial cranking the engine caused by a low voltage battery, though yours is new, as the ECU is very voltage sensitive.

 

I found the RAVE, wiring diagrams, and the electrical connectors handbook i am guessing. The connector at the switch looks good. Although i have not looked at the wiring inside of the loom. The connector is tight enough that I have to push the clip release to get the connector apart. Resting the battery is at 12.8-12.9 the two times that i checked it. Ok this afternoon I will hook up my battery charger and put it on start when i go to crank the rover up see what the voltage does. Any other advice i will take it!!!

 

Im having the same problem you are having. I have replaced the transmission and is doing the same thing, just being in limp mode but it will go on reverse just fine.
Does yours take reverse but not drive?

 

Check all your hoses connected to the throttle body - if you a very loose hose or big crack you can get th M&S lights but there is almost always a code associated

 

Test the connectivity of the XYZ switch and verify that you're getting the right voltage at the connector. Either there's no power to the switch or the output of the switch isn't getting to the TCU. The circuit isn't particularly complicated, so it should be fairly simple to trace.

 

So i verified i am getting 12 v at xyz switch. I know the switch is working somewhat. I tried to start after removing and looking at inside of switch again and no go. Moved xyz switch slightly rover would start in park and in neutral. I am following the circuit back to the bcm.

 

So i found the culprit. It was a unplugged connector under the center console. I get the correct gear indictor on the display and the red lights on the shifter column. However when i put the the rover in reverse it goes foward. And i have to rev it pretty high for this to happen. Even when the rover is in neutral it will creep foward when the throttle is applied. Works much better if i put it in low range to move around the driveway. I do not know which way is the correct position on the xyz switch. I am starting with the lever on the xyz switch all the way fowars towards the front of the rover. Then i place the shifter column in P then tighten the lockdown nut. This correct?

 

I am not getting fluid out of either of the lines to and from the transmission to the oil cooler. I pulled the transmission pan and everything seems clean and normal. I am thinking that the torque converter is not seated into the pump correctly or the pump was not installed correctly by the PO when the oring behind it was replaced. Anyone have thoughts or suggestions?

 

I do not think the torque converter or the transmission pump was installed correctly when the PO did the oring replacement on the transmission pump. I can pull off both lines and i get no fluid out of either. Do i need to prime the transmission pump? I changed the filter and gasket and also to check the pickup tube. Everthing looked fine.