Depending on the year of manufacture there are 2-3 different types of switch. If you mark the position of the switch and casing prior to removing the switch is helps when reinstalling. When opening the switch wash it out thoroughly with thinners or brake cleaner and then allow to dry then put oodles of petroleum jelly (Vaseline but not grease) into the switch. Don't install rivets on reassembly but use M5x15 (I think) cross head stainless bolts with nyloc nuts. Also lengthen the AC tray drain by about 6" to 8", I think it is around 8mm OD, but don't forget to reinstall the rubber nipple on the end, it stops the debris and spiders entering and accessing the AC tray.

PS: LR main dealers sell an overly expensive setting tool for the switch but if you mark the position carefully you don't need it.

 

Thanks guys,

after putting it on, then having to take it back off to cut down one of the bolts that was hitting the linkage arm, and after about 3 adjustments I've to P thur 1 all showing and no codes or flashing lights.

A couple things I did different was I used non dielectric grease instead of Vaseline, hope that wasn't a mistake, and I used it sparingly instead off packing.
I also put a coat of clear RTV around the seal and let it set over night with two 45# plates on top of it.

Lessons learned:
When trying to mount the cable bracket and the wiring harness bracket, TAKE THE CABLE OFF. You will never be able to line up the brackets and get the bolts in.

Make sure to cut off any excess length from the bolts you use to put the switch back together.

 

As a side question, Is it ok to drive a long distance while in limp mode? The daughter decided to drive it home from college while in limp mode. about 40 miles.

 

IMHO, no, apart from you're restricted to third gear and pulling away is a PITA as is trolling along in 3rd gear but it just uses more gas per mile. In all honesty it's designed for the autobox to 'get you home' but it's like driving everywhere in 3rd gear only so watch the rpm's.

Once fixed don't forget to clear the DT codes using a suitable diag: tool.

 

I'm not sure about using dielectric grease in place of Vaseline as I thought dielectric grease was a water proofer and insulator. As for the RTV, no problems as it will assist the rubber seal.

 

Thanks, and yes, I did clear the codes