I need a new MAF....the one thats on there now is a bosch 0280217532...can anyone tell me if this is the original part or was it replaced before....I read posts saying it should say Land Rover on it ????

 

No, they don't say rover, if I recall correctly. I can check mine when I get home. Also, I think bputah has some photos with the number.

 

Thank you...greatly appreciated This thing has 5 codes now left bank to rich right bank too rich and left and right bank too lean and the 4th gear ratio incorrect LOLOLOL I think from what I read on here it all points to MAF....just want to make sure I get the correct most reliable replacement....The water level problem after new radiator,water pump and therm???? might be good now,just checked it today after about 100 miles and it has more water than last time...so maybe the used car dealer didn't bleed the system the right way and thats why the water level droped for the first few days after the repair......Thats what Im hoping anyway

 

British Parts of Utah has one of the better prices for a brand new out of the box Bosch that is the correct one.
As for your codes, always give us the fault code numbers so we can make sure how to reply.

 

Before you spend big $ on the MAF - check the O2 sensors with a live code scanner.
Make sure the O2 sensors are cycling.

Did you try to clean the MAF?

I hear if done incorrectly, this can damage the MAF.

I have sprayed CRC sensor cleaner into the MAF when the truck is off.
Seems to do no harm.

MAF is a hot wire.
Air density going over the wire cools the wire down and more current is needed to keep the wire at a certain temperature.

So, the amount of current needed to keep the wire at a certain temperature is measured.

There is then a look up table in the ECU
which equates current needed to keep the MAF wire at a certain temperature to air density. Accurate as no moving parts.

Older systems in the '80's used a little flap that the air rushing by pushed on.
And, the flap moved the middle wire on a potentiometer - or variable resistor.

How an old MAF worked


Here is a GREAT writeup on modern hot wire MAFS

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...YEi8Pw&cad=rja

 

I also had some codes due to MAF and I had already changed 02 sensors. Bought some CRC cleaner, pulled the MAF off, Cleaned and reinstalled 1000 miles and no issues or codes. A lot better gas mileage as well.

 

Very cool info thanks. Yes I removed maf and lightly sprayed crc sensor cleaner on it. I'm going to try it again and give it a better cleaning see what happens

 

I've read a few posts stating that all bosch MAFs with part number 0280218XXX and 0280217XXX all have the same sensor element but a different housing. This means you can go buy a $50 VW beetle maf (double check pn of course) and exchange the sensor into your current housing and save $80 or more. It has been done successfully. If you search around I'm sure you'll find the posts I'm referring to.

 

I did certainly confirm that the sensor on the inside of my 2003 has the same part number as the sensor inside my 99, even though the housings have different part numbers.

 

I still didn't check my 99.... I got in late... but here is the photo of a new one at bputah:

Land Range Rover Discovery Genuine OEM Factory Mass Air Flow Sensor