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Main/Crank Bearing replacement write up

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  #21  
Old 04-08-2014, 07:00 AM
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pull the crank and regrind it

that is what i was looking for, I did not see that you reground it.
i though you put standard bearing on a 110k mile crank
 
  #22  
Old 04-08-2014, 01:25 PM
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Originally Posted by drowssap
pull the crank and regrind it

that is what i was looking for, I did not see that you reground it.
i though you put standard bearing on a 110k mile crank
Reread his last post, I think thats exactly what he's saying. He did NOT pull the crank and regrind, but rather just replaced the bearings with STD sized parts.
 
  #23  
Old 04-08-2014, 03:11 PM
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Originally Posted by RoverMasterTech
Didn't matter if he crank was under or not. The customer wasn't going to pay 3k to pull the crank and regrind it. When you are repairing a customers 10 year old car it's not about doing it "right", it's about achieving a goal as cost effectively as possible. There is no guarantee that grinding the crank and putting in oversized bearings would net anything better than just replacing the bearings.
I totally agree, I've seen many rebuilt motors fail with regrinds and O/S shells soon after they were rebuilt.

Money is always the limiting factor and if funds were unlimited they would chuck in a new engine.
 
  #24  
Old 05-08-2014, 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by RoverMasterTech
Didn't matter if he crank was under or not. The customer wasn't going to pay 3k to pull the crank and regrind it. When you are repairing a customers 10 year old car it's not about doing it "right", it's about achieving a goal as cost effectively as possible. There is no guarantee that grinding the crank and putting in oversized bearings would net anything better than just replacing the bearings.
I know this is an old thread, however, BUMP if I may. I have worked on many engines that would benefit from re-shelling and believe me, if i can do it without removing the crank shaft ( if no visible wear is present) I will. Engine removal can be 3 - 5 hrs of tedious work. Get it done with the FIX ,without the added arbitrary precautionary removal as the manual would state, is a learned by experience or OJT method IMHO. I am a back yard mechanic and have the faciity to do it by the book, however again, Arbitrary measures do not add up to NECESSARY or cost / time effectiveness. Measure twice and cut once. CHEERS!
 
  #25  
Old 05-10-2014, 10:13 AM
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Default Great write up

Thanks for all the info and photos. I wish I could find a mechanic like you here in the Los Angeles area.
 
  #26  
Old 05-10-2014, 02:28 PM
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"Measure twice and cut once"............it's one of my favourite sayings also and it is so true.........now even my wife quotes that saying.

It avoids so many '**** ups' when in a hurry.
 
  #27  
Old 06-23-2014, 06:27 PM
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Anybody have a parts list for this overhaul.

I already have my sump off searching for the root of my 8-9PSI hot idle oil pressure (accompanied by minor tick.) I didn't find any issues and minimal sludge in the sump so I'm considering digging deeper while I have it off.

So far my list is as follows
Buy up-front:
Timing Chain Kit from AB ~$120 (includes sump, Front cover gaskets)
Standard Main Bearing Set ~$80
Rod Bearings ~ $80
Rear Crankshaft Seal ~ $20
180 Thermostat (While i'm in there) ~$80

If necessary:
Oil Pump gears $100


Two other questions:

1.) Will this considerably increase the expected life of my engine assuming proper maintenance/attention from here on out?

2.) I also have an oil leak in my valve cover gaskets. Is there any advantage to doing it all at once or should I get the bottom half done first?
 

Last edited by powderhound; 06-24-2014 at 10:18 AM.
  #28  
Old 06-24-2014, 06:26 AM
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If necessary:
Oil Pump gears $100

this is probably the original problem with low oil pressure I would think it would be at the top of the list, long before bearings.
 

Last edited by drowssap; 06-24-2014 at 06:28 AM.
  #29  
Old 06-24-2014, 09:59 AM
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Thanks for the valuable insight, I will be doing this on my rover in the coming months.
 
  #30  
Old 06-24-2014, 11:17 AM
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You wont be able to replace the rear main seal as it is one piece and slides over the crank shaft. They never leak anyway. you will HAVE TO replace the rear main cap crusifix seals.
 


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