Main/Crank Bearing replacement write up
#41
Did you do another oil pressure test after the rebuild? Those hot idle numbers you posted above (7-10PSI) are very low. With a new timing cover I assume you got all new oil pump gears so your oil pressure should be much higher now. I never go below 18psi even on the hottest Texas days after driving for hours. I run the 15w-40 that RoverMasterTech recommends by the way.
Did you install a new o-ring on the pick up tube?
Did you install a new o-ring on the pick up tube?
Yes, installed a new o-ring in the pick up tube. All new factory timing cover assembly, timing gear and chain, main and rod bearings, etc. For this repair, I specifically refilled with Kendall 20W-50. After install, I have 48-50 psi on cold start up, dropping to 14-15 psi at hot idle (750 rpm). These readings are from a shop test tool, plugged into the new factory oil pressure switch.
#42
03/04 does not have an oil cooler, on the oil pump is 2 bolts that block off the ports for the oil cooler, you can remove these bolts and the cooler will fit right in. I have factory oil coolers here if you need one. The transmission oil cooler is larger and can be used as an engine oil cooler. What you read is wrong. The sleeves will move once the block gets hot enough. The only way to combat the sleeves moving is by cooling the block down to 180 degrees.
Try what I said in the other message and let me know how hot the motor gets before it starts making noise.
Try what I said in the other message and let me know how hot the motor gets before it starts making noise.
I will get my hands on a non-contact IR Thermometer and get some data. What type of trans cooler do you recommend? Like a B&M Supercooler or something? None of this will throw codes and activate the CEL?
#43
One of the ports for the oil cooler is over the filter elbow under the oil pressure sensor. The other one is on the bottom of the oil pump. They are plugged with a large bolt on 03-04. To hook a cooler up you only need 99-02 oil cooler lines and a trans cooler (trans coolers are bigger.)
Has anyone posted a DIY (and parts list) on fitting the earlier oil/trans cooler to a '03-'04?
#45
2004 Low Oil Pressure Light
My 2004 DII oil light came on at hot idle recently. I just changed out the entire cover which included a new pump and timing chain while I was at it. Unfortunately I'm still getting a hot idle oil light. Seems even worse now then before. Old Oil pump didn't look to bad with only minor scuffing on the cover.
I'm assuming my main, rod or cam bearings are going bad with 204K on the vehicle. For those that have replaced the main and rod bearings, has anyone found that it's one or the other that shows the most wear? Looking at this thread the rod bearings seem to be the ones with the most wear so I'm thinking about just changing them out first instead of pulling the mains since it's a much easier job. Anyone ever tried this?
I'm assuming my main, rod or cam bearings are going bad with 204K on the vehicle. For those that have replaced the main and rod bearings, has anyone found that it's one or the other that shows the most wear? Looking at this thread the rod bearings seem to be the ones with the most wear so I'm thinking about just changing them out first instead of pulling the mains since it's a much easier job. Anyone ever tried this?
#47
#48
Susvman -- I have been in your shoes. The oil light came on during hot idle then would go away while I was driving. I replaced the oil pump gears (mine was cracked in 3 pieces). Since I already had the front cover off, I decided to replace the timing gears and chain, and the water pump for preventative maintenance. Replacing the oil pump gears did not fix the light coming on. So I then replaced the crank and rod bearings (they were both worn about the same). The light still came on at hot idle. I finally replaced the oil pressure sensor and have not had the light come on since then (about 3 weeks now).
At the beginning of the whole ordeal, I did put a Harbor Freight oil pressure gauge on it a did verify
At the beginning of the whole ordeal, I did put a Harbor Freight oil pressure gauge on it a did verify
#49
Not sure why my last post didn't post properly, but here is the rest...
At the beginning of the whole ordeal, I did put a Harbor Freight oil pressure gauge on it a did verify less than 10 PSI at hot idle. My thinking is that the HF gauge is not very accurate at low readings.
At this point, I would recommend replacing the oil pressure sensor, since it is about $15 and a fairly easy change out.
At the beginning of the whole ordeal, I did put a Harbor Freight oil pressure gauge on it a did verify less than 10 PSI at hot idle. My thinking is that the HF gauge is not very accurate at low readings.
At this point, I would recommend replacing the oil pressure sensor, since it is about $15 and a fairly easy change out.
#50
Not sure why my last post didn't post properly, but here is the rest...
At the beginning of the whole ordeal, I did put a Harbor Freight oil pressure gauge on it a did verify less than 10 PSI at hot idle. My thinking is that the HF gauge is not very accurate at low readings.
At this point, I would recommend replacing the oil pressure sensor, since it is about $15 and a fairly easy change out.
At the beginning of the whole ordeal, I did put a Harbor Freight oil pressure gauge on it a did verify less than 10 PSI at hot idle. My thinking is that the HF gauge is not very accurate at low readings.
At this point, I would recommend replacing the oil pressure sensor, since it is about $15 and a fairly easy change out.