Yes, installed a new o-ring in the pick up tube. All new factory timing cover assembly, timing gear and chain, main and rod bearings, etc. For this repair, I specifically refilled with Kendall 20W-50. After install, I have 48-50 psi on cold start up, dropping to 14-15 psi at hot idle (750 rpm). These readings are from a shop test tool, plugged into the new factory oil pressure switch.

 

I will get my hands on a non-contact IR Thermometer and get some data. What type of trans cooler do you recommend? Like a B&M Supercooler or something? None of this will throw codes and activate the CEL?

 

Has anyone posted a DIY (and parts list) on fitting the earlier oil/trans cooler to a '03-'04?

 

You can use a factory oil cooler or factory trans cooler.

 

My 2004 DII oil light came on at hot idle recently. I just changed out the entire cover which included a new pump and timing chain while I was at it. Unfortunately I'm still getting a hot idle oil light. Seems even worse now then before. Old Oil pump didn't look to bad with only minor scuffing on the cover.

I'm assuming my main, rod or cam bearings are going bad with 204K on the vehicle. For those that have replaced the main and rod bearings, has anyone found that it's one or the other that shows the most wear? Looking at this thread the rod bearings seem to be the ones with the most wear so I'm thinking about just changing them out first instead of pulling the mains since it's a much easier job. Anyone ever tried this?

 

i would put a oil pressure gauge on and verify, i once pulled a whole engine down for a bad sender.

 

We learn the hard way don't we....That's what makes forums like these so invaluable. Not just a manual, but experience.

 

Susvman -- I have been in your shoes. The oil light came on during hot idle then would go away while I was driving. I replaced the oil pump gears (mine was cracked in 3 pieces). Since I already had the front cover off, I decided to replace the timing gears and chain, and the water pump for preventative maintenance. Replacing the oil pump gears did not fix the light coming on. So I then replaced the crank and rod bearings (they were both worn about the same). The light still came on at hot idle. I finally replaced the oil pressure sensor and have not had the light come on since then (about 3 weeks now).

At the beginning of the whole ordeal, I did put a Harbor Freight oil pressure gauge on it a did verify

 

Not sure why my last post didn't post properly, but here is the rest...

At the beginning of the whole ordeal, I did put a Harbor Freight oil pressure gauge on it a did verify less than 10 PSI at hot idle. My thinking is that the HF gauge is not very accurate at low readings.

At this point, I would recommend replacing the oil pressure sensor, since it is about $15 and a fairly easy change out.

 

Thanks for the reply. I'm going to install a manual pressure gauge and check the pressure before I do anything else. What troubles me most is that the new cover from BA came with a new sending unit.