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Main/Crank Bearing replacement write up

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Old Dec 2, 2015 | 03:22 PM
  #61  
Motorhead1's Avatar
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From: Southern OR
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Wow. Camshaft bearings can just come right out of the Rover V8.....

In my experience with bearings/races of ANY type, when the race comes loose/spins out of it's pressed/beat in housing, then the female bore that excepts the bearing is toast?? Is this rover block in the pic bad now? What is going to keep a new cam bearing from walking back out again? Do you have to peen the bore for a tighter fit??
 
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Old Dec 5, 2015 | 04:12 PM
  #62  
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And here is my walked cam bearing. How do you fix this?
 
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Old Dec 17, 2015 | 12:55 AM
  #63  
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From: Wasilla Alaska
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Originally Posted by lrjon
And here is my walked cam bearing. How do you fix this?
A Land Rover parts dealer told me that the cam bearings for this engine must be installed an then line bored which isn't possible up here in AK. A local machine shop tells me the Buick bearing can be installed as a direct replacement. I guess I'll try them and see what happens.
 
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Old Dec 17, 2015 | 06:08 AM
  #64  
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From: Boston Strong
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AB also sells a set that they say are "finished"
 
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Old Feb 16, 2016 | 12:59 AM
  #65  
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Finally getting around to fixing the cam bearing that walked. Major PIA. Here's the bad bearing once removed. It was notched from rubbing the lifter.

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The old bearing doesn't appear to be solid. Wonder if this is why the walk.

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Made this tool to press in the bearing. Worked great.

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Had to reach thru the cly 7 to hold the bearing and tool then thread the rod to the bearing support tool and the pull the bearing in with the nut from the front.

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Amazing with 204,000 miles there is no ring ridge on the cylinders and hone marks are still vivid and there no sign of a slipped liner. Hopefully the hot idle tick was just from low oil pressure.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2016 | 09:21 AM
  #66  
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From: Boston Strong
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I never figure out why they use that style cam bearing, they only one i have seen that does not use a standard bearing.

nice job on the cam tool looks like one you would have bought.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2016 | 09:48 AM
  #67  
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Nice job! How difficult was it to remove the old bearing? Was it wedged in there pretty good? After you installed the new bearing, are you reasonably confident that it will stay in place?

Care to elaborate on the tool you made to remove the bearing?
 
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Old Feb 17, 2016 | 02:30 AM
  #68  
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From: Wasilla Alaska
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Originally Posted by lrjon
Nice job! How difficult was it to remove the old bearing? Was it wedged in there pretty good? After you installed the new bearing, are you reasonably confident that it will stay in place?

Care to elaborate on the tool you made to remove the bearing?
Removing the bearing was easy. Just used a piece of pipe to catch the edge and tapped it out. Was less then half of the bearing remains in the block port anyway. The only way to fit the bearing in with the tool was by reaching thru the rear cylinder w the crank still installed. It pressed In tight so I think she will hold.

It may have been like this for a long time and wasn't until it finally wore far enough notch in the bearing from riding agianst the lifter that the oil port was completely uncovered. The new bearing would have to do the same. There's not much clearance between we're the bearing lives and the lifter.

Will have it started tomorrow and will see what happens.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2016 | 02:41 AM
  #69  
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From: Wasilla Alaska
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Originally Posted by lrjon
And here is my walked cam bearing. How do you fix this?
Which bearing is this? Mine was second from the back between cyl 3 and 7. They are all different sizes w larger ones toward the front.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2016 | 01:34 PM
  #70  
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Red truck... It's always the red and blue ones...
 
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