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The question: Is it really worth to buy the kit from AB for $50, or is the kit from BPUtah for $26 essentially the same?
I had to replace the passenger-side manifold-to-downpipe gasket on my truck three years ago. I got the gasket from the dealer for about $9.00. I had no problem removing the three nuts from the studs and reusing them. Maybe I got lucky.
I got rid of them Damn Studs and used Stainless Bolts instead and no worry's about them breaking and now no more leaks.
Just order the gaskets from Ebay and get the stainless bolts at Home Depot of Hardware Stores etc.
Bolts with a head? Did you drill the holes out in the manifold?
I went with the AB kit and installed new gaskets. Nuts came off easily, also the two nuts at the muffler connection. Some of the crossmember bolts I could turn with my fingers, LOL. So everything came off easily. Nothing snapped, two of the studs came with the nuts. The stud remover for the other four worked like a charm, also when installing the new studs with it. Only one stud made problems, but I didn't clean the threads on the manifold. Since I had no tap I just trimmed thread on the stud a bit with a file and it got in well finally. I also cleaned the mating surfaces with scotch-brites and fine sand paper. The new gaskets were secured with crocodile clips to keep them in place while lifting the Y pipe back into position myself. Everything worked out well, the only pain was getting to the passenger upstream O2 sensor connector. Unfortunately the passenger side connection still leaks a bit when testing cold, but the other leaks were gone. I hope that it seals better when getting hot. A few test drives proved a smoother engine when cold and when under load. On the other hand the engine tick (at idle only) got more pronounced, but that might be coincidence. After letting the car sit for one day, I tightened the nuts again. They barely turned.
Securing the gaskets.
All studs came out, here is the proof.
Stud remover, very useful and efficient. Could not have done it without.
Last edited by Discorama; Jan 21, 2020 at 08:53 PM.
Jeez I'm old... 20+ years being a mechanic and I've never seen a stud remover like that. That's a cool tool tho… https://asttool.com/detail_page.php?...ht=sPuller.jpg
I just double nut the stud and crank on it with a wrench.
Glad you got them out no problem.
Last edited by JUKE179r; Jan 22, 2020 at 07:13 AM.
jeez i'm old... 20+ years being a mechanic and i've never seen a stud remover like that. That's a cool tool tho… https://asttool.com/detail_page.php?...ht=spuller.jpg
i just double nut the stud and crank on it with a wrench.
Glad you got them out no problem.
I went with the AB kit and installed new gaskets. Nuts came off easily, also the two nuts at the muffler connection. Some of the crossmember bolts I could turn with my fingers, LOL. So everything came off easily. Nothing snapped, two of the studs came with the nuts. The stud remover for the other four worked like a charm, also when installing the new studs with it. Only one stud made problems, but I didn't clean the threads on the manifold. Since I had no tap I just trimmed thread on the stud a bit with a file and it got in well finally. I also cleaned the mating surfaces with scotch-brites and fine sand paper. The new gaskets were secured with crocodile clips to keep them in place while lifting the Y pipe back into position myself. Everything worked out well, the only pain was getting to the passenger upstream O2 sensor connector. Unfortunately the passenger side connection still leaks a bit when testing cold, but the other leaks were gone. I hope that it seals better when getting hot. A few test drives proved a smoother engine when cold and when under load. On the other hand the engine tick (at idle only) got more pronounced, but that might be coincidence. After letting the car sit for one day, I tightened the nuts again. They barely turned.
Securing the gaskets.
All studs came out, here is the proof.
Stud remover, very useful and efficient. Could not have done it without.
This stuff works really well for sealing small exhaust leaks.
I just double nut the stud and crank on it with a wrench.
Glad you got them out no problem.
I spend some time trying this (in order to return the stud remover unused) but with no luck. Was not worth the effort. The tool worked instantly and didn't damage the threads even a bit.
