Which method is best for replacing the wires?
Please feel free to state your opinion, I plan to put in my new Magnicore wires later this week.
Method 1-Follow the RAVE CD instructions for removing the intake manifold which does require a new gasket when replacing and dumping and refilling some coolant.
or
Method 2- Removing only a few parts and climbing over your engine to remove and replace the wires via the instructions posted in this forum with pictures a short while back.
The gasket doesn't seem too costly ($30 from Atlantic British) and the coolant fluid issue seems not too difficult or messy. It seems like the time taken to remove the manifold outways the time spent trying to remove and replace the wires in the second method and also get the wires on the right terminals of the coil head. Those instructions suggest 3-5 hours. Will the removal and replacement of the intake manifold take that long?
It also seem like by removing the manifold you can inspect the entire top of the engine and replace the valve cover gaskets if necessary as well.
Your thoughts are appreciated! Inquiring minds want to know!
Method 1-Follow the RAVE CD instructions for removing the intake manifold which does require a new gasket when replacing and dumping and refilling some coolant.
or
Method 2- Removing only a few parts and climbing over your engine to remove and replace the wires via the instructions posted in this forum with pictures a short while back.
The gasket doesn't seem too costly ($30 from Atlantic British) and the coolant fluid issue seems not too difficult or messy. It seems like the time taken to remove the manifold outways the time spent trying to remove and replace the wires in the second method and also get the wires on the right terminals of the coil head. Those instructions suggest 3-5 hours. Will the removal and replacement of the intake manifold take that long?
It also seem like by removing the manifold you can inspect the entire top of the engine and replace the valve cover gaskets if necessary as well.
Your thoughts are appreciated! Inquiring minds want to know!
I completed the 60k service and have the wires, but I'm holding off. I did the tuneup using OEM plugs, and my truck has always run great. I'm waiting until it's time to replace VCG's and maybe even head gaskets and put the new wires on at that time. I'm planning on keeping this baby for awhile, so if I happen not to need new gaskets by 90k then I'll replace all gaskets and wires at that time. Kind of a "whichever comes first" approach. I did however get a quote from an independent LR dealer, they said $350 for replacing the wires and new intake gasket which seems reasonable.
In response to your other post on the power steering: Get yourself a turkey baster, remove all the fluid and top it off w/ fresh. Start the motor and turn the wheel fully to the left and right. Repeat this x 3, and on the last fill put about 1/2 bottle of lucas in and top off w/ steering fluid. Most of us I think have used this approach and works just fine...and not messy.
In response to your other post on the power steering: Get yourself a turkey baster, remove all the fluid and top it off w/ fresh. Start the motor and turn the wheel fully to the left and right. Repeat this x 3, and on the last fill put about 1/2 bottle of lucas in and top off w/ steering fluid. Most of us I think have used this approach and works just fine...and not messy.
If you dont want to replace your intake or valve cover gaskets then definatly use method 2. its not that bad might get some bloody knuckles but it save a lot of work. Definatly have the wiring diagram handy.
Mike, calling a Land Rover Discovery with leather seats a truck sounds so bourgeois! I mean, afterall even Queen Elizabeth has been known to take her Range Rover for a spin at Balmoral Castle! Would one say she was out in the paddock in a truck? 
I have a 2003 with 91,000 miles. I don't know if the wires on the engine are the originals, they are grey in color and say "Suppression 4125 Silicon" or something like that.
I have the secondary air injection. My valve cover gaskets were replaced just before I purchased the car when the cylinder head gaskets were replaced so they are not leaking.
I am good at working on cars and have rebuilt 3 or 4 engines that actually started up and ranafter rebuilding them!

I have a 2003 with 91,000 miles. I don't know if the wires on the engine are the originals, they are grey in color and say "Suppression 4125 Silicon" or something like that.
I have the secondary air injection. My valve cover gaskets were replaced just before I purchased the car when the cylinder head gaskets were replaced so they are not leaking.
I am good at working on cars and have rebuilt 3 or 4 engines that actually started up and ranafter rebuilding them!

With your mileages and original plug wires, I would highly recommend you just plan on spend 4 or 5 hours and go for it.
Buy a intake gasket as well as the entire valley pan gasket set, order some 8 mm Magnecor plug wires, a set of Plus 4 plugs, do an engine flush and a induction and you will be amazed at how much better your truck will run afterwards.
If you want more information shout.
Buy a intake gasket as well as the entire valley pan gasket set, order some 8 mm Magnecor plug wires, a set of Plus 4 plugs, do an engine flush and a induction and you will be amazed at how much better your truck will run afterwards.
If you want more information shout.
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