Hey guys I've posted b4 and been reading a ton but one thing that is no correct answer I come to see what you guys think. I am looking into the Disco's series I and II. weighing options of whats better to have the older ones without electrical things liek ACE and others to go wrong but I'll cut to the question. Do you think or see a stable price these olders Discos will drop and stay at, I mean as a new buyer I cant imagine buying one for 8-9 driving it and selling in a few yrs have it drop thousnds of dollars every market comes to a plateu if you will. Seeing how many miles you guys put on and see others put on what is a Mileage you would not exceed for buying your first one (prob third owned). Cause if I buy a 110k 130 comes quick then 150 and who knows how long they'll last and I'll have a really expensive paper weight. And I know its all about previous maintence but as owners accumulate reciepts are harder to come by as far as history. I won'ty ask what yrs are best cause i've seen it done to death both Series I and II have pros and cons. But what is a yr/mileago combo you guys would suggest for not wanting to go over say 10-11 k?
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Depends on if you want a D1or D2. I would get a 99/00 with under 80K, if you can find one.

I bought my 97 with 120K and 90K on the motor. I have 148K now and will need head gaskets bynext spring, but it runs well and I know will last a few more years. I know I will put more into this over the years than it is worth, but by the time you pay for a new car, you have spent $30K+ and when you are done, it isn't worth near what you paid for it. I like to tinker, so I am just doing it backwards.

 

Just because I'm curious - are you in the mindset thatavehicle purchase shouldparlay into a time valued positive return on initial investment... Dr?

I drive a 2003 Disco. Purchased itin 2005 with40k as a lease return froma LR dealer (with warantee). I've since put 58k on the meter bringing it up to 98,000 miles.Following that trend I could be rolling past 150k "in a few years or so". That means my antisipated return on investment is purly based on a lot of happy Land Rover experiences, memories and miles under the tires.

Word is, that it takes 100,000 miles to getLand Rovers worn in.

MWmG

 

I guess I missed that part of you post. I agree, you shouldn't expect a good return on these trucks at all. They lose their value. period. Get one for $3K and you will probably sell it for the same a few years down the road.

That said, these trucks get terrible mileage, and you have to want one to get one. They are getting cheaper and cheaper as gas goes up...

 

Here's something to keep you busy for a few minutes. It comes from Robison which is a well known and well respectedLand Rover expert. That way you get the un-biased advice of an expert, instead of the advice of owners that will vouch for what they drive.

Things to look for in a Discovery
Most of the 1997-1999 Discoveries on the used market today are third-owner trucks. Most were leased for two to three years, bought by a second owner, and they are now offered to you. Many of these lease cars received little or no upkeep, and it shows. Avoid cars with sludge in the oil filler — an indication of insufficient oil changes.
Build quality of the 1996-7 Discoveries is the lowest of any modern Land Rover product. Avoid these years if possible.
Check the tie rod ends carefully, especially the one at the steering gear pitman arm. If they have any play they should be changed. These joints can fail without warning. For that reason if you are at 60,000 miles we suggest replacing any original pitman arm joints, and we’d change the other three also by 90,000. If the pitman arm joint falls off you’ll lose all steering control. We’ve seen several Rovers crash as a result of this failure.
1996 to 1998 4.0 engines are terrible oil leakers. These are the common leaks: cylinder head gaskets, intake gaskets, front seals, oil cooler lines, oil pans, rear main seals and valve cover gaskets. Updated repair parts are available. Always surface heads when you change head gaskets or you’ll be doing the job again in a year or two.
Oil all the door hinges, and pay particular attention to the underside of the rear gate handle. If you don’t keep them oiled you’ll be paying to fix doors that don’t open one day. Dealers seldom spend the 10-15 minutes it takes to do this unless asked, in our experience.
Rotate your original Michelin tires every 7500 miles. If you don’t do this you’ll get a sawtooth wear pattern on the insides of the front tires and within 30,000 miles your truck will sound like it has bad wheel bearings. To check for this wear run your hand around the inner circumference of the front tires. Go one way, then the other. You'll probably feel the saw teeth one way while the other will be smooth.
Don’t disconnect the battery unless absolutely necessary. Doing so often sets a fault code that put on the SRS light. It can only be cleared by a dealer or someone like us with the Autologic tester.

Pre 1998 4.0 engines are prone to develop carbon buildup on the exhaust valve stems. Symptoms are intermittent missing or staggering of the engine, usually on long drives and at high speed. Frequently a check engine light is seen with random misfire codes and specific cylinder misfire codes.

ABS lights that come on after replacing front brakes are often the result of sensors getting disturbed. Pull them out, reseat them, and if you're lucky the problem will go away. They are not positively retained like on most cars. Another common cause of ABS lights coming on is loose wheel bearings.
Cooling fans on 1996 and newer trucks are known for coming apart. They can send blades through the hood. Check yours carefully for damage.

Transfer case linkages on Discos are prone to freezing up from rust if not shifted regularly. If your truck still shifts into low range and lock — Great! Keep it that way by shifting every week or so. Otherwise you'll be into a 2-3 hours repair one day soon.

Things to look for in a Discovery II
The Discovery II offers a number of enhancements over the 1994-1999 Discovery I models. If you can afford the price premium it's a far better vehicle.
The high mounted tail lamps, a smoothed and streamlined nose, and an upgraded interior distinguish Disco II models. For the 2003 model year the Disco II got yet another nose redesign following the theme of the 2003 Range Rover.
If you are into off-roading you may find the Disco II more limited in terms of accessories. In addition, the higher value of these vehicles makes many owners loath to expose them to off road conditions. A Disco I remains the best choice for a serious off-roader at this time.
On the highway and around town the Disco II is a hands-down winner over the previous model.
Some Disco II improvements include:
[ul]The forward facing third seat with headrests is far safer than the sideways seating arrangement of the Disco I. However, Disco II's equipped with this option are rare.
A Bosch engine management system and more Bosch electronics everywhere. The Bosch stuff replaces the less reliable British stuff.
The engine is more powerful and the vehicle is more responsive to drive.
The engine was redesigned to reduce leakage, and they were largely successful in this. Disco II models still leak, but nowhere near like their predecessors.
The in-car entertainment is significantly upgraded.
Disco II engines use the new GM Dex-Cool red antifreeze instead of the older green mix used in prior years.
Production quality seems to be quite a bit better. The overall quality of the vehicle is considerably improved from their low point in 1996-7. [/ul]
Weaknesses to watch for in looking at a used Disco II
[ul]Radiators are prone to develop leaks, more so than previous Land Rover models.
The idler pulleys on the belt drive become noisy and in extreme cases come apart.
The ACE system, while substantially improving high speed handling, offers the possibility of service nightmares on high mile units.
Disco II engines are prone to failure of the rocker shafts, resulting in engine raps. Luckily repair is not too costly.
Many used Discoveries were lease vehicles, and many received little or no care. A truck that had the oil changed three times in 40,000 miles may cost substantial sums later in engine repairs. Check your service history before buying. [/ul]
In a perfect wotld, I'd say for the amount your willing to pay, get a 1999 to 2001 Disco 2 with the less owners possible ,witha full data of service and least mileage possible. Try and get one with the CDL.

 

I def appreciate your input as I have found on these forums (unlike many I belong to i.e. motorcycles, bmw's) there is not much bashing and just straight input. To clear up what I meant is I find my self attracted to the likes of vehicles that are not the run of the mill, bring much joy, but resale is tricky if needed. I got into a M3 a few years back and within the time frame of owning and the miles were put on yes it was one of the most well made sports cars I've ever driven. But I lost a lil more than some on my resale due to the market which no one can predict. So what I was gauging as owners who I'm sure see Disco's come and go, are they of the more excellerated in terms of depreciation, because buying one I'd love to own one for years to come. But it's always good to know your not stuck with one that reached a mileage no one will touch or a year they don't want in a pinch. Other than that I have almost a handful of Disco II in the 2000-2002 range with 60-80k on them for 12k and under here in FL.
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p.s. read that like 5 times lol. thanx Darover
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There is a lot of haggle room in the price when you go to buy. Discos (rover period) sucks gasoline, and their prices are falling everywhere. I saw in an article that world oil output peaked last week, and will be half what it is today by 2030. So, that should give you an indication of your future truck's future value lol.

Don't let it stop you. Once you get it, you'll never want to get rid of it. Just be sure to do your maintenance and expect to spend another 2-3000 dollars on top of what you pay for it to get all of the kinks worked out.