Misfire Codes and Valve Cover Gasket Leaks
#1
Misfire Codes and Valve Cover Gasket Leaks
My 04 Disco (57000 miles) started jerking while I was driving the other day. This was the same day I got an oil change. Took back to shop and have misfire codes (P1300 - Secondary ignition fault; P0308 - cyl 8 misfire; P0305 - cyl 5 misfire; P0300 random misfire). Notice I have visible oil leaks out of both LH and RH valve cover gaskets. Oil appears to have dripped down on spark plugs and wires.
Shop wanted to charge over $1000 to replace gaskets. Have done some research and appears that it it possible to fix myself. I'm always up for a good challenge.
Anyone ever had this type of problem before? Do you think that just tightening up the bolts on the valve cover might solve the problems? Are the misfires (and the jerking feeling when driving) a result of oil on the plugs/wires? Or is there a bigger issue going on inside that I need to take everything apart to find?
Shop wanted to charge over $1000 to replace gaskets. Have done some research and appears that it it possible to fix myself. I'm always up for a good challenge.
Anyone ever had this type of problem before? Do you think that just tightening up the bolts on the valve cover might solve the problems? Are the misfires (and the jerking feeling when driving) a result of oil on the plugs/wires? Or is there a bigger issue going on inside that I need to take everything apart to find?
#2
#3
Do you have a Rave manual? If not, go to landroverresource.com and download one. It will provide the steps necessary to replace the valve cover gaskets.
First, I would try tightening the bolts -- they work loose over time. You can only reach the bottom two without the intake removed (8mm or 5/16 12pt. Shallow socket works best). A lot of times they just need to be tightened instead of replaced.
First, I would try tightening the bolts -- they work loose over time. You can only reach the bottom two without the intake removed (8mm or 5/16 12pt. Shallow socket works best). A lot of times they just need to be tightened instead of replaced.
Last edited by willrok13; 02-02-2011 at 07:13 AM.
#5
Not sure how old plugs and wires are, but I suspect they've never been replaced. Bought the car with 51k miles and haven't replaced since then.
I did download the rave manual. Looks involved, but I can handle it. Anyone know which parts I should order? Don't want to buy a whole kit if i'm only going to need one or two of the gaskets out of it.
I did download the rave manual. Looks involved, but I can handle it. Anyone know which parts I should order? Don't want to buy a whole kit if i'm only going to need one or two of the gaskets out of it.
#6
http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/ERR6621.cfm
http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/VCGK.cfm
http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/LLJ000010.cfm
You can shop around for prices. Do the oil separator while you are digging in there.
Also replace the spark plug wires and you may as well do the spark plugs.
Get 8mm wires from STI, Magnecor or Kingsborne.
http://www.kingsbornewires.com/produ...&categoryId=38
http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/VCGK.cfm
http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/LLJ000010.cfm
You can shop around for prices. Do the oil separator while you are digging in there.
Also replace the spark plug wires and you may as well do the spark plugs.
Get 8mm wires from STI, Magnecor or Kingsborne.
http://www.kingsbornewires.com/produ...&categoryId=38
#7
http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/ERR6621.cfm
http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/VCGK.cfm
http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/LLJ000010.cfm
You can shop around for prices. Do the oil separator while you are digging in there.
Also replace the spark plug wires and you may as well do the spark plugs.
Get 8mm wires from STI, Magnecor or Kingsborne.
http://www.kingsbornewires.com/produ...&categoryId=38
http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/VCGK.cfm
http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/LLJ000010.cfm
You can shop around for prices. Do the oil separator while you are digging in there.
Also replace the spark plug wires and you may as well do the spark plugs.
Get 8mm wires from STI, Magnecor or Kingsborne.
http://www.kingsbornewires.com/produ...&categoryId=38
STI Wires?!?!???!?!?? Blasphemy!
Just kidding, I have the blue ricer STI wires on my truck for the last 45k miles now and they've been great! I just like to poke fun at the "ONLY Magnecor" crowd from time to time...
#9
This appears to be the same issue I am having and also started just after an oil change. The guy even took the time to tell me how good the truck was running for 140k. My question is that if the jerking has already started will tightening the bolts solve the jerking problem as well? I get that it will stop further leakage but am curious what happens to the oil that has made it's way in and causing the symptoms? Thank you!
#10
If your wires have oil all over them - clean the oil off.
I would use carb spray. As that will flush off the oil and it will evaporate.
Really, you should get new wires after they are polluted with oil.
you CAN change the valve cover gaskets yourself.
You are getting ROYALLY RIPPED OFF at $1,000 to change those gaskets..
Your objective is to remove the upper air intake. This is painful.
1) Remove the MAF, air filter pipe and all that.
2) Remove the brake vacuum line, the SAI vacuum line, the vacuum line for the PCV.
3) Remove the throttle cables for pedal and cruise.
3a) Remove the SAI breast bone pipe "L" bracket from the intake manifold.
3b) Remove the two spark coils and unhook them.
3c) Disconnect ALL the wires from the TPS, the MAF and others.
3d) remove two bolts per side of the SAI air valves
4) Remove all 6 bolts on top of the air intake / plenum unit.
5) Try to carefully remove the air plenum
6) You can access the one valve cover right away. take it off.
7) You will need to remove the heater lines which are OVER the right side
valve cover. Be sure to drain out the antifreeze first from the cooling system.
8) remove the right valve cover. You need an 8mm 12 point socket. Not a hex socket.
9) spray GUNK cleaner on the valve covers. Take them to the manual car wash with the gun sprayers. remove all the grease.
10) Getting new gaskets to fit is tricky. The gaskets are usually a little too small width wide. Stretch the gasket carefully.
11) Coat the underside lip of the valve covers with Aviation gasket maker. You can get this at an autoparts store.
12) Line up the lip of the new gasket with the lip of the valve cover.
13) Once it lines up, flip it over and put the gasket side on a clean
floor surface. Assure it is lined up.
14) Stand on the valve cover to cause the gasket and aviation sealant to bind.
14a) Make sure the little round cylinder washers are in each hole.
14b) carefully put the 8mm 12 point bolts back in to the valve cover long ones go outward toward the
exhaust. Short ones go toward the intake manifold.
15) Place the valve cover and new gasket back into the cylinder head. Make sure the gasket does not knock off.
16) Now run your finger around the valve cover - make sure the gasket did not slip off. If it did - start over.
17) This is hard - start each 8m 12 point bolt into the cylinder head. You need to move the valve cover around carefully.
18) Tighten - until you feel the cylinder washers resisting. And, then just bit more. Too much and you snap the little bolts.
19) Put the cooling pipes back together.
20) Put the evil air intake plenum back on. Hint - put aviation gasket sealer on the bottom of that intake manifold gasket.
21) Line up the intake manifold gasket with the two guides.
22) Carefully put the intake manifold back on.
This is a nightmare. First, use the front guide stud to place the front
bolt ident into the guide stud.
Then - once placed, put your hand on the middle of the air intake manifold and move it back and forth until it clicks on that left guide. This can take minutes to 1/2 hour. Watch that the intake manifold gasket is not coming off.
23) Put in all 6 bolts. Long ones in the middle. Short ones front and rear.
23 Tighten evenly and torque.
24) Put all the vacuum hoses on.
25) attach the SAI pipe in the rear.
26) Put the coils back
27) Attach the SAI valves to the sides of the air intake
28) ATTACH the MAF intake pipe.
29) connect all the wires again - to the coils, to the throttle position, to the MAF
30) Put the air cleaner assy back in.
31) start it.
32) check for leaks from valve covers.
33) DONE.
I would use carb spray. As that will flush off the oil and it will evaporate.
Really, you should get new wires after they are polluted with oil.
you CAN change the valve cover gaskets yourself.
You are getting ROYALLY RIPPED OFF at $1,000 to change those gaskets..
Your objective is to remove the upper air intake. This is painful.
1) Remove the MAF, air filter pipe and all that.
2) Remove the brake vacuum line, the SAI vacuum line, the vacuum line for the PCV.
3) Remove the throttle cables for pedal and cruise.
3a) Remove the SAI breast bone pipe "L" bracket from the intake manifold.
3b) Remove the two spark coils and unhook them.
3c) Disconnect ALL the wires from the TPS, the MAF and others.
3d) remove two bolts per side of the SAI air valves
4) Remove all 6 bolts on top of the air intake / plenum unit.
5) Try to carefully remove the air plenum
6) You can access the one valve cover right away. take it off.
7) You will need to remove the heater lines which are OVER the right side
valve cover. Be sure to drain out the antifreeze first from the cooling system.
8) remove the right valve cover. You need an 8mm 12 point socket. Not a hex socket.
9) spray GUNK cleaner on the valve covers. Take them to the manual car wash with the gun sprayers. remove all the grease.
10) Getting new gaskets to fit is tricky. The gaskets are usually a little too small width wide. Stretch the gasket carefully.
11) Coat the underside lip of the valve covers with Aviation gasket maker. You can get this at an autoparts store.
12) Line up the lip of the new gasket with the lip of the valve cover.
13) Once it lines up, flip it over and put the gasket side on a clean
floor surface. Assure it is lined up.
14) Stand on the valve cover to cause the gasket and aviation sealant to bind.
14a) Make sure the little round cylinder washers are in each hole.
14b) carefully put the 8mm 12 point bolts back in to the valve cover long ones go outward toward the
exhaust. Short ones go toward the intake manifold.
15) Place the valve cover and new gasket back into the cylinder head. Make sure the gasket does not knock off.
16) Now run your finger around the valve cover - make sure the gasket did not slip off. If it did - start over.
17) This is hard - start each 8m 12 point bolt into the cylinder head. You need to move the valve cover around carefully.
18) Tighten - until you feel the cylinder washers resisting. And, then just bit more. Too much and you snap the little bolts.
19) Put the cooling pipes back together.
20) Put the evil air intake plenum back on. Hint - put aviation gasket sealer on the bottom of that intake manifold gasket.
21) Line up the intake manifold gasket with the two guides.
22) Carefully put the intake manifold back on.
This is a nightmare. First, use the front guide stud to place the front
bolt ident into the guide stud.
Then - once placed, put your hand on the middle of the air intake manifold and move it back and forth until it clicks on that left guide. This can take minutes to 1/2 hour. Watch that the intake manifold gasket is not coming off.
23) Put in all 6 bolts. Long ones in the middle. Short ones front and rear.
23 Tighten evenly and torque.
24) Put all the vacuum hoses on.
25) attach the SAI pipe in the rear.
26) Put the coils back
27) Attach the SAI valves to the sides of the air intake
28) ATTACH the MAF intake pipe.
29) connect all the wires again - to the coils, to the throttle position, to the MAF
30) Put the air cleaner assy back in.
31) start it.
32) check for leaks from valve covers.
33) DONE.
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