I’m 16 years old and I got this car as a hand me down from my dads friend, so far I have gone through replacing the back quarter of the frame to pass inspection, small fixes in the engine area, not much but still more stuff to work on.


A few days ago I got to work and my window would not go back up, after letting the truck stay off for about 5 mins, I started it back up and the window went back up. The window keeps going from wanting to go down to not going down at all. Probably the worst timing during summer heat.


onto the second issue, both my driver door and driver side passenger door refuse to unlock with the remote. I am able to unlock the driver side door with my key just fine, and I am able to open the rear door from the inside. Today I double clicked lock and they both locked. First time in a while they locked by themselves.

and third issue. Not the main one, but I’ll be playing music and the driver door does not play any sound or anything, about 5 mins into driving the speaker will start to make a odd plastic wrapper crunching noise and then that side will begin playing music. No clue why but it’s an interesting one.

and then last one, the service engine soon light.
I took a scanner and checked through it and it came up as a misfire in drive cycle c. No clue what that is, or where it is at, or if it’s a bad thing to be driving around with. The truck sounds fine besides for a slight clicking noise on the right side probably from a exhaust leak.

 

Well it sounds like your at the start of a long learning curve, just like all Landrover D2 owners, thers a few things to remember, your not the first so lot of info and help out there to guide you through, its a car you can not only fix yourself , and once you have mastered all the skill you need to maintain them, could lead to a carrer in car mantainance should you want too, and of course its a car that could without an accident could last you years, I have mine since 2007, yes done the back chassis, sunroofs headliner, ball joint steering box all the usual stuff, my wife has commented, why dont you get a new car, well it still after all this time a joy to drive and thats it. I would not want a computer driven cant pass a garge type car, and then the cost, mine cost me about $5000, Not sure how much I would need to pay to get a car that does what mine does and will last as long

 

Hey, congrats! I also started early, got my first at 17.

Just as a preliminary test, swap the window buttons around and see if the issue moves with the button.

When you double click the lock button the D2 goes into what is called "super lock", which sometimes overrides a locking issue. If possible, I'd just not lock the vehicle. I know this is not an option depending on where you live. With finnicky locks, you want to be very careful not to trip the immobilizer; that will likely become a trip back to the dealer if you do. If the truck thinks it's locked, but you open a door that is not actually locked, the vehicle will shut itself down and you will not be able to start it.

Is this the same door that the window doesn't consistently work in? There is a connector in the kick panel by the door that plugs together and carries all the wiring for the drivers door. Check that connector for corrosion, make sure there is continuity across all the connections when it is plugged together. If that checks out good then check in the wire boot in the door jam and see if you're getting broken wires. Just trace the wires and see if you can find broken wires or bad connections anywhere.

Was that the only code, and what was the actual Pxxxx code that showed up? Cursory glance, that looks like a relatively insignificant misfire, but all misfires will cause trouble over time. I'd pull spark plugs and look at them; probably just replace them while I had them out, and I'd do plug wires at the same time while I had them out. Extinct released a coil pack relocation kit that comes with new wires fairly recently - I'd go that route if it were me, and I'd order the in line thermostat kit at the same time. Both huge upgrades that will save you a lot of headache down the line. https://extinctmotorsports.com/land-...elocation-kit/

Welcome to the club!

 

@Reddy1 For the window try some spray silicone in the sides with windows down. DO NOT use wd40 or similar it tends to make things worse, just a shot or 2 on each side. Then put the window up then down it may help.

The fob battery may be shot, easy to change and it is a standard battery you can get anywhere.

Crunchy noise from the speaker could be a dying speaker or bad wiring. You need to pop the inside door panel off to see, save that job until you need to get in and check the window regulator.

 

On the outside of the vehicle, at the bottom of the windshield, there is a black cowl that rests on the window.
Is this cracked, or is there a gap between the cowl and the windshield. This part is way more important than it may seem, because it keeps water out of the inside of the vehicle. A leak here, either from a crack or a gap, means water can get inside and cause issues with your computer control panels, and one of those problems is the keyfob not responding and locking the doors, though this is normally all doors, though I've had it be some doors only.
They are rather easy cars to work on, so you have that going for you, and what you learn will be valuable should you ever go offroad or need a more serious repair.

 

Welcome! Be sure to read the stickies at the top of the forum.

1. Wear related issues - you can't prevent these, they are mostly use and time dependent, the good news is most items in this category last at least 130k, when some start going bad.
2. Hubs - around 200k
3. Door lock actuators (lifetime is cycle limited). - usually start having issues around 140k
4. Idler pulley bearings
5. Water pump - bearings wear out and then it leaks coolant - these only last about 50k or so. Either change regularly or keep a close eye on the coolant level and under the truck for coolant leaks
6. Alternator brushes, slip ring, and bearings – good for about 225k
7. Starter – dc motor brushes wear out about 200k
8. HVAC fan – dc motor brushes wear out about 200k
9. PS pump bearing wears out – 250k+
10. AC compressor bearings - 150-200k. Salt exposure affects this.

Design related issues - these can potentially be prevented.

1. Oil leaks due to plugged valve cover baffle. Do PCV mod in sticky
2. window regulators - lack of lubrication - remove door panels and grease
3. sunroof leaks due to pan design gaps and resulting headliner and sunroof motor issues
4. Blown head gaskets and slipped cam bearings - most likely related to overheating related to the plastic cooling system components leaking all the coolant out.
5. Overheating due to faulty thermostat - no Land Rover design is immune, inline mod is the most reliable.

Age related issues - due to environmental degradation

1. Brake master cylinder reservoir leakage
2. Plastic cooling system components - res tank, radiator tanks, plastic lines, hoses
3. Ignition coilfailures
4. Spark plug wires
5. Interior fuse box circuit
6. Sunroof leaks related to cracked tubes
7. PS pump gasket leakage
8. Brake booster
9. Power seat switches
10. Cracked cowl panel
11. cruise control hoses

Maintenance related issues - totally preventable

1. Rusty frame
2. Stuck rear door handle due to rust
3. Oxygen sensors- these are almost always related to blown headgaskets

 

Welcome to the club. You will get lots of help from these forums, but you will also need to help yourself a little.

1. Get a obd dongle and an app for your phone ("Torque" for Android or "OBD Fusion" for iOS). Details here.. https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...02/#post581013

2. Download the relevant manuals from the google drive link in my signature. This will help you understand what the codes mean and where to focus your energy.

These two things will help more than anything else.

Extinct's list is excellent.