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  #41  
Old 06-07-2014 | 11:56 AM
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Yeah i get about 13-14mpg full city I'm getting 9-10mpg and i don't have any mods and there arnt any codes besides the o2 sensors which after 100 miles of driver still arnt working apparently.
 
  #42  
Old 06-07-2014 | 12:00 PM
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I'd make sure the connectors are cleaned and that you got them fully snapped back together.
 
  #43  
Old 06-07-2014 | 12:00 PM
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Live data shows them active with voltage its down from .8 to .455
 
  #44  
Old 06-08-2014 | 02:29 AM
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Originally Posted by ninjaff21
Yeah i get about 13-14mpg full city I'm getting 9-10mpg and i don't have any mods and there arnt any codes besides the o2 sensors which after 100 miles of driver still arnt working apparently.
If you've changed the O2 sensor(s) and still have the same code, I bet something else is amiss. The computer is dumb in the sense that if it accepts another sensor's (or combination of sensors) errant reading, and the O2 sensor responds appropriately, it sometimes will ignore the O2 sensor and set a code, thinking it's the culprit. This is rare, but can happen.

For example, if a fuel injector is leaking-- it will set a misfire code initially, and the O2 sensor immediately responds saying the mixture is rich. The computer will lean the mixture on all cylinders to compensate. This usually exacerbates the problem, as none of the cylinders are at the proper mixture-- the leaking one is still rich, and the others are lean. The ECU still cannot straighten things out, and since the MAF, CTS, AIT and other sensors are reading appropriately, it disregards the O2 sensor and gives you that code, even though it's reading rich like it's supposed to (for the theoretical leaking injector).

Just giving you an example of why codes can be misleading. If you replace it and it's still bad, start troubleshooting elsewhere.
 
  #45  
Old 06-08-2014 | 03:45 AM
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I still have my little magic decoder code ring running.
http://enginecodemaster.com
Has lots of the rave codes in it.
That site is running on a Rasberry PI that a college intern gave me as a present.

I got 16 MPG on mixed highway and city. If and only if I used premium gas and
I drove the rover never over 55 MPH and I drove it like there was an egg on the gas pedal.

But I was pretty surprised I could get that MPG from a big square lumbering Discovery.
Just drive it like a prius. You'll probably get more MPG.
 
  #46  
Old 06-09-2014 | 12:08 PM
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Im now getting multiple misfire either the coil pack is going now or is it just coincidence?
 
  #47  
Old 06-10-2014 | 06:49 PM
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Missfire hasn't come back still heater and ckt no response codes after 300 miles of driving but i don't feel the large heat build up in my floorboards anymore. if its something like the injector how can i test that?
 
  #48  
Old 06-10-2014 | 09:53 PM
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Yeah yeah yeah..
Well.
You don't feel the large heat buildup...
There is a REASON!!!!

OK well when your O2 sensors were bad..
The ECU switched to the FUEL MAP

and the FUEL map is static.
It tends to OVERFUEL.

The excess fuel is not burned.
Goes out the exhaust.

Into your cat convertors.
Those
go supernova to burn the excess fuel.

And that ruins your cats.
Melts all the rubber near them too..
And give YOU hot feet.

Well I am REALLY GLAD to hear you got the O2 sensors in
and your cat convertors are not two small Suns or stars glowing white hot.

You are now in the "closed loop club".

A closed loop means the O2 sensors are feeding back to the ECU.
ECU controls the fuel injectors.
Fuel injectors set the mixture.

Mixture affects the Oxygen that the O2 sensors sense
and feeds back to the ECU.

Good job!
 
  #49  
Old 06-10-2014 | 10:00 PM
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Okay I got all of that but since everything is normal now its still throwing codes immediately after turning on the truck. So can that really mean that something else is going on?
 
  #50  
Old 06-10-2014 | 11:23 PM
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Originally Posted by ninjaff21
Okay I got all of that but since everything is normal now its still throwing codes immediately after turning on the truck. So can that really mean that something else is going on?
Can you post the exact codes you're getting? I assume you've cleared codes since the O2 sensor swap-- if not, you'll need to do that.

What scan tool are you using for reading codes and the O2 output? Can you post fuel trim? Would be helpful to know what the long & short term fuel trim are doing at idle, part throttle (cruising) and moderate throttle.

Don't just throw parts at it unless you like wasting money. I wouldn't point fingers at ignition components unless I knew fuel pressure & trims were good, or I had a reason to suspect it (old or high mile wires & plugs).
 


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