In the past few days or weeks, I continued the project and installed the new heads and gaskets and clean up the engine. Then I can move the truck out of the driveway and get all the cars out that got blocked inside and wait for the new replacement range rover p38 4.6 engine arrival.



















Soon after install, The new engine arrived and I picked up from my friends business that allows freight shipments. Purchased an engine hoist and engine stand from Harbor Freight to get it out from my disco.












Examined the newly arrived engine, removed the intake and exhaust manifolds and the cylinder head. The engine looked okay and no steam cleaned pistons heads that resembles like my cylinder #6.

I got so excited starting with the project and ordered new gaskets and head bolts, etc. Meanwhile, the other truck was running already and and thought of taking it for a ride around the block. Test drove the truck and monitor the heat via Ultragauge. It was steadily rising and drove home immediately.

Stumped with the overheating temperatures, I thought of the blocked thermostat that I might have installed. But, also wondering the coolant pressure was way extreme and it was boiling out of the reservoir. So I replaced with another thermostat and still overflowing and bigger bubbles coming out at first start when engine was cold. So, I removed the plug from the #4,6,8 cylinders to confirm and check the condition and here is the photo what I saw in the cylinder #6



Coolant inside #6 cylinder.



So, I then assumed that there was a crack in there somewhere. How large? I dont know. No sign of coolant in oil, no sign of oil in coolant.
At this point, I have a spare engine ready to install. Well, all plans changed when I decided to experiment on this instead. I have an old radiator that was leaking and do some extra coolant plumbing hack. So run to home depot and got some copper elbows and went to Auto Zone to get a foot of 3/4 inch coolant hose and some clamps. I bypassed the heater core.





Then installed the old radiator and happily added stop leak! Yes, that right, STOP LEAK, what to loose. I have a spare engine. Noooooooo! I know, all of us here are against any clogging agent that could lead for more clog. But, I need to see this clog works. Then, I added the clogger to the coolant and with no result. So I drained all the green coolant and replace it with tap H2O. I was thinking that water will evaporate faster than regular coolant and might patch the crack faster. Several attempts were made in 10, 15 minutes intervals and watch how the temperature rise slowly. Truck wont stay not to over heat in the recommended period of time for the chemical to cure. 3rd attempt, double the dosage and bang. Truck started to normalize. Temperature on the high side and no overheating. Let it sit overnight and checked the #6 cylinder with scope and here is the image.




Take some few rounds around the block and temperature, steadily going back to normal. After several days of test driving the truck with a total of more than 270 ++ miles driven, temperature went back to normal. No misfire codes on cylinder #6, engine smoother and no hesitation at the moment.







At this point. The heater core bypass is still installed and still using the old radiator. Have not drained coolant yet and till running on regular tap water. I might be able to take more temperature down with regular green coolant installed. I have not seen or taken any photos of cylinder #6 since the last image. I am hoping to see improvements in few days after running few hundred miles.

 

What product did you use? The Steel Seal? Interested in seeing how long this lasts.

 

Same here. Not sure about how long, could be days, months etc. but, It get me really paranoid like getting a filling from dentist, after stressing too much, they come off. Also, constantly looking at the gauge is crazy. For now, no flashing SES light from #6 unlike before.

 

Are you going to be doing any engine rebuild work before the swap or just rip and replace?

 

Robert, Yes. I was doing some research about measurement and specs and to see if parts needed to be replaced. The truck have potential since the chassis is solid and rust free. If you have suggestions, let me know. Thanks

 

I wish. I'm just starting to peak over other's shoulders as my D2 nears 200k. Trying to see if there are more affordable options than Turner.

 

True. I just got recommendations from LR facebook group and suggested the p38 4.6 is a better option. Older block when tooling were a bit precise. I dont think I can afford a turner build coz im maintaining 3 this time. I guess its reasonable for me. I can only extend their life around my budget. I guess regardless of engine, if no proper maintenance then it wont last. Imho.

 

Took lower intake off my 04 Disco saturday.
Chasing a possible vacuum leak, but have yet to find any.
Gonna pull heads next to check and see if there are any slipped liners. If so, pull the block, pin them, replace rear main seal...hope for the best.
I feel your pain

 

Does anyone know if the heads will come off with the exhaust manifolds still bolted on, obviously unbolted from pipes?? Seems like it would save some headache if they would, unbolt after I have heads off.
Looks like I can get to the upper trans bolts easier with heads off too?
Thanks

 

exhaust manifolds are much easier to unbolt. Just use pb blaster and 25” breaker. I used to think it was harder. Once they're loose, you can do by hand.