was recommended i start a new thread. so hear it is and i agree its probably a good idea. so have owned it sins Saturday, i drove it home from OK to Dallas TX (about 6 hours of driving done that day). just took it in today for state inspection which it passed and will get it plated tomorrow. with the rain today, i stepped on the gas and the traction control light came on on the dash, so seems to be working. got a little wheel spin .



the good:
interior is very clean





body is great minus the rear door as when i got home i noticed it was dented in. some one in my last thread already recommended a come along and pulling it out, so will be doing that.



they have paper work showing head gaskets being replaced last year.

new master cylinder for the brakes, system has been bleed. (trying to resolve a soft peddle that moves a bit more then it should.)

vehicle had a good car fax report, the retired couple purchased it out of UT.




the bad:
iv had it a few days now and drove it around a bit and notice a slight hum at around 40ish mph when the torque converter is locked in 4th gear and i let off the gas, goes away when i step on the gas. at high way speeds its very smooth. so unsure what this could be at the moment?

cruise control doesn't work, but read up on it and found out my vacuum line cracked and fell off the diaphragm nipple.



upper radiator hose is ballooning a bit and it will need to be replaced(has the bleeder in the hose and not in the T fitting) seller told me its always been that way sins they've had it for 7 months.



brake peddle being soft, im guessing maybe one of the slide pins on the calipers are stuck causing the peddle to move more? when i drive it and hit the brakes then quickly pump the peddle ones it quickly brakes with a firmer peddle and less throw. what do you all think?

this is all iv noticed so far, but other wise it drives great and plan to order the AB or lucky 8's coolant hoses, as well as a lucky 8 front axle, and a low temp thermostat. Being that i will be replacing the thermostat and upper hoses and im sure ill loose most of the coolant, whats the proper coolant for this car? or should i get what the dealership sells me? i have a 2000 jetta and i only use the VW coolant. so whats best? i also went and bought some can spray engine degreeser for the bottom of the engine and tranny and what ever ells i am trying to clean up under the vehicle. is this the best way to go about this? or is there any cleaners i should stay away from when cleaning the under carriage. (i think its best to start with a clean surface so the source of the leak can be spotted more easily.) thinking about draining both axles and transfer case as well and possibly the transmission. vehicle has 138k miles on it now, so a good flush of the transmission and a filter change should do it some good correct?

 

Looks is good man. White is definitely the best colr. Sounds like you need a new front driveshaft to smooth out that 40mph vibration. As for coolant, anything but dexcool.

 

The disco pedal is naturally soft....or so I am told. But I replaced my leaky resivoir and it got a little less soft. I live in Flower mound if you need a code scanner or things like that. I will tell you to buy an ultra gauge or similar product to monitor your systems. Worth every dollar. Good luck with your new adventure!

 

very nice looking tuck
you probably want to replace the old rubber brake line if you want to get a firm pedal again.
AB has hose kits and thermostats on sale now.
any type of good green coolant is fine, just be sure to drain and flush the old stuff out with water.
all the cruise control units do that, it from the heat generated under the hood, it cause all the rubber and plastic pieces to fail.
at the top of the d2 section is a post it on "major service" it will give you a lot of information on fluid changes and types.
i cant see the damage to the back door, can you remove the rear door card and pop it back out?
good luck with it

 

Was looking at the oil stick as the last owners had just got an oil change from there local firestone. I'm having a hard time reading the stick. Not sure it comes out in the pick, but the dotted line I made is were the oil level seems to be. The other side of the stick shows all the writing for add and full levels. But that side just seems to have oil all over. Only this back side can I find a flat cut off of oil on.

 

I suppose I can call that firestone to find out what oil they used. Prob should just drain this new oil and get some Rotella synthetic that I see others using on here. I did an oil change on a friends old Hyundai Sana fe and it's oil stick was very similar to this one. I found it hard to get a good reading. Not like my jetta stick that has a clean line made by the oil level on both sides. What's the oil capacity in these engines?

 

best to replace it they probably use a 5 or 10 weight oil

 

Nice truck - white is always clean looking. I am east of you in Wylie. Looks like you, me and Stuckntx are neighbors. think there are a couple more around here. I think I've learned and done more to my D2 in the last 2 months than the last 2 years by participating in this forum.

+1 on the Rotella 15w-40 dino oil and also an oversized filter like the Wix 51515

 

the Rotella 15w-40 huh, so this stuff
Rotella T5 15W-40 Motor Oil, 1 gal - Walmart.com


ill see if i can find a bundle pack of those Wix 51515 filters too.

 

They don't show all the oils online. In the store, Walmart, has the Rotella 15w-40 that is not T5. T5 is a synthetic blend. Regular old Rotella 15w-40 is $13/gallon. You can use T5 but don't need to. They just only show T5 online and not the regular old dino.

Wix 51515 is the extra capacity filter. It's the Napa 1515 with an extra 5.