I've searched multiple forums on Disco 1 & 2 strange starting issues and most that resemble my symptoms revert to DiscoMike getting mad at the PO for just chucking $$ and parts at a phantom.


I'm not one to cross DiscoMike , nor waste my hard earned cash so here is what I'm facing:


I have the rare, but odd "slow starting" issue. The starter does not act like it's not getting fuel (no coughing) nor does it act like a weak batter (no clicking), just slow, then catches and all is good.


This was intermittent, so I suspected a bad ground. Cleaned the battery terminals and all appeared well. I even swapped relays before (actually did this first).


Now, it won't start at all. You turn the key and the relay pics, dash lights all go off like they do, but no turn-over at all. Like a dead, dead battery, but the interior lights stay bright. Battery shows 12.5 volts.


Took the battery to the parts store for an amp check: 500A minimum across the discharge test.


Where the crap is the fuel valve? I'd like to check pressure, but it does not appear to be an issue as the Rover runs solid...when it starts.


So, next up was the Starter. Getting the shield off was easy...except finding the bolt for the shield was the hardest part of the job! Got it off, cleaned the terminals (oil caked) and tried to start: no dice.


Hooked the battery back up and got my meter to check the leads on the starter.....this was kind of nerve racking considering it's hot, I'm in a contorted position, my hands naturally have a slight shake to them, and the posts are less than an 1" apart!


12.5 V across the terminals at the starter.




I'm thinking now that my starter is burned up or some British Security "feature" is blocking the starter motor (I thought immobilization targeted the fuel pump?). Are there any checks I should perform before spending the $$ on the starter?


My other question is WHAT is causing the motor to burn up? (hopefully it was a combination of the grime on both the battery and starter terminals that I cleaned after the starter gave up the ghost?)

 

My other question is WHAT is causing the motor to burn up? (hopefully it was a combination of the grime on both the battery and starter terminals that I cleaned after the starter gave up the ghost?)

could in be the starter is 15 years old? have you tried rapping it with a hammer yet?

the sharder for the fuel is in the back of the engine up by the coils, but if the started is not spinning fuel pressure is not your problem

 

That's what I figured (regarding fuel pressure).


At the time, I didn't thing to tap the starter (maybe it didn't occur to me because of the tight space?). Which is odd, because on our old CJ7 this was standard practice for months until we finally replaced its aging starter.


One time in high school I had taken a girl with me on a trail ride and the starter crapped up. A quick tap with a rock fixed it, but it probably would have been better to have forgotten the rapping trick that time......missed opportunity. .

 

+1 on the hammer. If that doesn't work, try plugging in your old relay. I got a bad new fuel pump relay once...wasted 3 days tracking that down.

 

Alright, here is an update (too many threads are left unresolved).


I had to get the disco from my previous home to my new home. I tapped the starter with the hammer, one hiccup then dead. Tapped again. Two hiccups then dead. Tapped again..... This time a cough and a sputter and the Rover was on its way to its new home.


I love my new garage. Just shy of 1k square feet lit with 24 T8 bulbs (I need another 6...there is a slight shadow in the center..) I started work at 6:50 and finished just shy of 9pm, and I had no clue when the sun went down. If anyone is considering adding more lighting to their garage......DO IT!




Now the job..... what a PAIN IN THE BUTT. There are plenty of write-ups about this, and they are spot on. The bottom 8mm is best attacked from underneath from the front side of the front suspension, with every extension I owned, I was able to get the ratchet between the steering stabilizer and the sway bar.


The 1/2" drive felt like it was going to snap, so I went with 3/4. Since I was unpacking, I couldn't find my PB blaster and I had yet to buy som Kroil (which I really wanted). I should have soaked it, but I didn't. When the bolt broke, it disconnected my extension and my hand flew across and got roughed up against the front axle.


Fun fun. Amazingly after it broke, it could be unthreaded by hand. Amazing, considering the grime and oil that collects there. The head was slightly stripped, I must not have had it set all the way. As others have stated, MAKE SURE you seat the allen head properly or it will strip! Tap it with a hammer!


And tap it with a hammer I did on the upper bolt. Because of the manifold, this one requires a wobble....plus extentions! Yippee! With the 1/2" drive I could get it around before the manifold, and with the 3/4" it went up through the gap between the manifold split.


I can't remember which drive broke it, but it did, and I could easily unscrew it by hand. This time the bolt showed no signs of stripping...it was properly seated.


Removing and installing the new starter was trivial. I used the upper bolt (because you can see it) to line everything up. Tightening was also fairly simple. I couldn't see how to get a torque wrench to work, so I just got them "tight but not too tight".


Tested it, and she fired right up! Solved the problem!


Now the hardest part of the job: The heat shield!


Good crap, she barely fits anyway, and the part with the bolt hold flexes and bends so it's difficult to line up, and then in a cruel twist of fate the 10mm screw goes into a hollow, and so invisible, spot of the motor mount and pokes out through another hollow spot. One hand is working between the stabilizer and the sway bar, and the other is wrapped around the header and holding up the shield. All while oil from the the leaky british seals and the grease from your greasable drive shaft drops flakes off and into your eyes (note to self, get goggles!)


Oh, remember how I tested it? Well, when the heat shield shorts across the starter terminals, it looks like a cross between 4th of July sparklers and creating an arc on a low-power welder. Scared to death, I jumped and further beat up my hand, this time on the exhaust manifold.


Don't forget to remove the negative battery post before putting on the shield! Eventually, and I have no idea how I did it, I managed to get a 1/4" drive with small extension and a shallow socket to hold the bolt while bending the shield's plate (which has the threads for the bolt) into position so it would catch and screw in. All while blind.


Finally, snapping the retainer over the solenoid and the starter is completely shielded and installed.


Whew!


What should have been a 20 minute job was completed in under 3 hours, so I'll call it a success....


Now for some wheeling before winter sets in!


Thanks for your help everyone (and that includes all of the contributors on similar threads that I lurked through before beginning this operation)