Not all regulars know their stuff. If you search and read the posts, if you want, you can use the advice of people with high post counts, but that's not always a good indicator on everything either.
For "best tires" you'll get as many tires as people who reply.
Nearly as much for "best fluids".

 

I don't know how extreme you are going to go with wheeling, but if you plan to get into ruts and rocks a lot, I agree with what was mentioned earlier about putting disconnects on your front anti-sway bar (rear one too, if you have one). That'll also save the bushings.

Have a good look over the vehicle: Check brake hoses at the wheels for cracks, I agree about the front bumper air dam down low. That will get damaged pretty quickly if you don't remove it. Make sure your cooling system is good. Lube up drive shaft u-joints and change necessary fluids. Be sure your jack is good and spare has air (and you have the tools to change the tire. Take a tow strap with you and some general tools just in case. You will be ok.

 

I just make stuff up as I go.

I really like the Cooper Discoverer S/T, I run stock size, 235/70/16 but I dont have a lift.

Motor oil I use diesel oil, 15w-40 for the summer and 5w-40 for the winter and change it every 5,000 miles and use NAPA, WIX or Purolator oil filters.

Gear lube 85w-140, Tractor Supply house brand.

Trans fluid and power steering fluid I prefer Castrol, both take Dexron III on a DI.

Engine coolant Peak Global in the 50/50 premix, 3 gals for a DI, 2 for a DII.

Fuel Shell 93 octane and fill up once a week if I need it or not.

Air filters whatever name brand paper filter they sell at the auto parts store.

Fuel filter dont care what brand, change it once a year.

I also rotate the air in my tires once a month.

Does that cover it?

 

That's funny!

 

spike, you're not running synthetic anymore?

 

wow..uhh..thanks

what is the purpose of running diesel engine oil? is it non synthetic diesel oil?

I've never heard of someone doing that....

 

Diesel oil is generally thicker, higher numbers, as well as it has more solvents to help prevent carbon buildup. I use to use Rotella 15w40 in my rover but that was just because i had a powerstroke that took 15 quarts an oil change so i would buy the Rotella by the case in the gallons. I sold the truck and now i switched to the high millage oils. I have always used them in cars over about 70k on them and have had good luck.

 

Nope, waste of money in my opinion.
Unless you are driving all expressway and going 10,000 miles between oil changes and its a Civic your wasting your money.
I have spent hours reading every part of this web site and with personal experience I will not use full syn motor oil.
http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html

Oil additives are a waste as well as high mileage engine oils.
High mileage oils are good if you have a leak but no need to use them unless you have a leak.

I like the extra hot protection a 15w- oil gives.
If you read through the site he explains how they get the numbers for motor oil.
A 5w-30 is a "5" weight oil that protects the same as a "30" weight oil.
A 0w-40 is a "5" weight oil that has special stuff in it to make it flow better at cold and protects like a "40" weight oil.
a 15w-40 is a "15" weight oil but protects like a "40" weight.
But now here is the kicker, when oil starts to break down it looses its viscosity, so a "5" weight oil when new may become a "2" weight after a few thousand miles.
Heat breaks down oil, the additives burn off and the viscosity breaks down and sludge forms.
During the summer when internal engine temps can get extremely high, like when off roading, sitting in traffic with the a/c cranking on hi, towing a trailer that oil will break down quick.
Unless you are using a "true" full syn, like Amsoil or Royal Purple you are not getting any extra protection than you would get from a high quailty diesel oil.
Mobil 1, Castrol Syntec, Pennzoil Platinum, etc. are NOT true full syn oils.

If Shell Rotella is good enough for the $250,000 combine that the farmer depends on year in and year out its good enough for my Rover.

 

Spike...is "Shell Rotella® T6 Full Synthetic" http://www.shell.com/home/Framework?...t6_detail.html
a "true" full syn oil and if not what is the difference? Also, why is Mobil 1 (my current oil) not full syn?

I need to change my oil soon and would really like to know!

 

I have no idea.
But I think a good judge would be the price, Royal Purple and Amsoil are $10+ per quart.

Mobil 1, for example, is made out of the same base stock as heavy duty diesel oil.
It has synthetic viscosity modifiers and friction modifiers but it is the same base stock.
Amsoil, for example, is 100% synthetic, even the base stock.

Personally I refuse to pay that much for oil nor can I afford it.
Like I said, if I ran a delivery company and my Subaru wagon was my delivery car and I put 75,000 miles a year on it and they were all highway then yes, I would use Royal Purple and change it every 15,000 miles.
But thats not my case.
I drive 10-12k per year and its a mix of everything, highway, city, offroad, towing, shorts trips in cold weather, excessive idling...you get the idea.

I check my oil once a week, change it every 5k, add if needed and call it good.
Lifes to short to sweat the small stuff.