Hey all,

I am working a 97 DI 129k.

FUEL GAUGE: I am looking for guidance as to what can affect the fuel gauge. According to the owner, if he tops off the gas tank it reads EMPTY with the warning light on and about 150 miles later, the needle moves up and displays half full.

RPM GAUGE: Doen't work. I have NO idea what could be affecting this.

INTERNAL LIGHTS: They came on for the 1st time over the last weekend until I backed out of the drive way and hit a bump. Something loose? But what? Where?

OIL PAN GASKET: I need to remove the oil pan gasket to re-seal it as the cork/sealant combo the last grease monkey did is not holding up. What all do I need to remove (in sequence) in order to remove the pan? Rave doesn't mention removing anything except for the bolts.

ALTERNATOR: During a cold start-up, the Alt gets HOT very fast and is making a ticking/clicking sound like bearings are going out. It looks to me as the original Alt. I am gonna get it tested. I assume a weak alt can cause some electrical gremlins?

Any guidance will be greatly appreciated.

Josh

 

the alternator is the most likely culprit for your rpm gauge not working... change the alternator if its bad and the tach should come back to life...

as for the interior lights check all the connections and door indication switches... gently pry the fixtures from the headliner and look for worn or loose wires or connectors, check for loose fuses...

 

The tach runs off the alternator, replace it.
As for the fuel gauge wait until you get a new alt, but it sounds like the sending unit is bad, which sucks because you have to replace the whole fuel pump.
As for the lights, check with RoverChris, he is a 12v tech.
Oil pan, remove the 14,000 bolts, clean the mating sufaces and use RTV sealant, let it cure for 24 hours and then fresh oil and filter and you will be good.
The only thing that you may need to remove is the steering damper.

 

Man, I am so impress. Where and how do you guys know all these things. I know you work for FedEx Spike, but were you guys in auto tech school? Or is it just on the Rave CD.

 

Man I don't even know why I bother asking anymore. I knew you guys would say that. I was hoping for something different that I didn't know! LOL

and Torancis_LR,

All cars systems are very similar and for generic issues, there is usually a universal fix. Then it comes down to specifics, i.e., how a bad alternator affects certain systems on the DI. A weak or bad alt may affect different systems on another car (radio, power window), more than anything else. I would think most of us enthusiasts know from experience, (or from being a LR Tech, or from knowing one) or from hearsay, (like me). Forums help spread that experience and knowledge.

I for one use the knowledge on the forums to work on the local rovers on island, hence the purpose of this thread.

I installed a locking DI T-case housing on my 03 T-case just using the Rave manual to learn how to remove the old one once I learned, (from Disco Mike) that it was possible and that it would work just fine.

So if you didn't know any of these answers, next time you hear someone with similar problems, you might suggest the same thing. That is of course as long as Spike doesn't get to them 1st!

...Spike can't go a day without sharing his experience/knowledge.

 

Well said jycsalas

 

I grew up in farm country, fix it yourself or walk, took auto shop for 4 years in High School, college credits for auto tech, been helping and working on cars, trucks, tractors, lawnmowers...you name it if it has a internal combustion engine I have prob worked on one.
Rebuilt a couple of engines in my day, working at FedEx you learn how to push your van to the service limits while still keeping it out of the shop.
If it aint on the road it aint making me money, but yet I cant always be changing fluids and such because that also cuts into profits.
You dont always need the best replacement parts, for example I use NAPA mid grade brake pads, replace them every 4-6 weeks, use their best pads and repalce them every 4-6 weeks, their cheapest pads and replace them every 2-4 weeks.
I take it to Pennzoil for my oil changes, Shell Rotella T 15W-40 and change it every 5,000 miles...my van has just over 228,000 miles on the original engine.
If I run discount gas I get spark knock when I climb big hills or put my foot into it to hard...so I just dont put my foot into it, I would use better gas but at 15-20 gallons a day I need to save every penny I can.
Like jycsalas said, all cars are basically the same, all engines work the same, all transmission work the same, the only difference is what effects what.
When the alternator on my van goes out the tach still works but the voltmeter will slowly drop as the battery drains, once the voltage gets low enough the airbag light will come on and the stereo will shut off, then the engine dies.
I have the gear lube in my van changed once a year using full synthetic gear lube, I dont change the transmisison fluid or filter, when you go through 2 transmissions a year it is a lost cause to spend the money on it.
Tune ups when she starts to run really bad.
Change the power steering fluid with every new power steering pump or steering box...so about once a year.
LR's are very durable, they dont need to be babied like some people think, you dont need to spend $15 on a oil filter.
Use the proper gas, do what the book says and dont worry about it, its just a truck.
And yes, I do need to make at least one post in every thread.

 

FUEL GAUGE: Should I get a used fuel sending unit or new? I would hate for it to go bad later down the line.

ALTERNATOR: UDATE** It seems that it is the original seeing how it is a Marelli brand alt with land rover sticker. Which alt brands should I use or stay away from?

 

You cant just repalce the fuel sending unit, you need to replace the whole pump.

As for the alternator, do NOT get one from AutoZone, I repalced 2 of them in 14 months.
I would either get a used one or one from NAPA depending on the guys budget.
www.autosportsunlimited.com
www.roverlandparts.com
I do not know if either of these guys will ship to the USVI.
As a side note I would not do anything to his fuel gauge until you replaced the alt.

 

Yes stay away from the Autozone junk alt's. I had one fail in under about 8 months on another car. I think all the alt's will be a Marelli brand, just rebuilt by someone else. I had mine rebuilt by a trusted local shop that just does alt's & starters. They've been around 30 years and I've been going there about 15 years. Cost $180 for the rebuild with a long warranty. See if you can find an Alt shop near you?

One other thing on the oil pan, you'll need to jack the truck on the chassis so the front axle hangs down to give you clearance to get the oil pan out. Like stated by Spike, just the RTV, no gasket, even my local LR dealer told me not to use the gasket and just RTV.