The clean cyl is 3rd back on the left, so 5 right? Questionable gasket is on front right, so 2? Fwiw I agree, 5 is very suspect, no sign of gasket damage and a clean cylinder, I'd say my chances were 50/50 at best. Glad to send some more photos, but honestly this was a an experiment, I have the heads checked in, if they check out good then I'll put it back together. If it then fails sell for 1500$ with full disclosure, no loss except for my time.

 

Head with lighter cc is 1-7, something has to be going on with #5... :-/

 

I don't understand why your exhaust valves are not the normal lighter color, why they are so black, same color as the intake valves, unless oil or something other than gasoline is getting in the combustion chambers and burning to form the carbon buildup, or you possibly have some burned valves, or valves not seating correctly for some reason---an auto. machine shop will be able to insect heads and tell you if anything is wrong with valves/head. I am especially suspicious of #5, with its being so "steam cleaned" looking. I wouldn't be surprised if you had a crack behind liner #5; in time you will find out, unless you are able to do a pressure test on the water jacket with it apart?

 

That's a good point on the ex valves, they are all like that so it would have to have been a really bad valve job last time. Could it just be running rich for some reason? Well, I sadly suspect I have just the smallest beginning of a crack there. If the heads check out and I get it back together and I have just the slightest sign of it, I will have no choice but to dive off into the lunatic fringe, my native element, and hit it with some bars copper with the heater blocked off. Modern science will gain me 5K to evaluate whether or not I like the truck enough to then spring for proper liner fix (I know that will earn me lots of points here, too ;-)

 

You: "I have just the slightest sign of it (cracked block), I will have no choice but to dive off into the lunatic fringe, my native element, and hit it with some bars copper with the heater blocked off."
_________________________
I never was a fan of the "liquid fix in a can" crowd, especially for a cracked block, which will lead to slipping liners and loose head bolts, due to fact that the crack allows for freeing up of liners and bolts from aluminum expansion following cracking. As a side affect, pouring in leak pluggers, usually also plugs up radiators, reducing cooling, increasing chances of overheating engine, leading to more engine damage, if possible, the vicious cycle continues.

 

If "I have the slightest sign". Anyway I'm not either (a fan), but I've been told by people at "Irontite" who make a 3 stage kit consisting of a caustic flush, ceramic, then a "mix with AF", that authorized LR dealers are purchasing that combo in increasing numbers, ostensibly because it works without damaging the cooling system. I'll put it to the test and let the chips fall where they may, maybe someone will benefit from my success or failure.

 

Pinkytoe's a fan. 10k+ and counting! Try searching for his thread.

 

Thank you sir, he was one of my inspirations. Having said that I should have just pulled the engine from that wrecked DII at pick n' pull.

 

someone had a good running 4.6 boshe in the fs section

 

the coolant tank is notorious for breaking at the bottom nipple.