First of all, I’ve searched. Haven’t found what I’m looking for.


2001 D2. 140k

About a year ago both rear brakes were smoking and getting hot. If you spit on the rotor it sizzled. I decided to open them up and noticed both calipers were in need of replacing. The RR was worse than the other so I did that one first and took the other one apart and cleaned it and it worked fine.

one thing to add....needed to take the caliper into the shop for the guy so the system bled almost empty by the time I got back. At that time I thought I’d just bleed the system when I got the new caliper on and off be fine. But what do I know. This could be the whole problem.

So to continue,

Then the RR started sticking again. Even with a new caliper.

so I replaced the lines with TF SS lines. Bled the system and still had a sticking RR.

burned through a set of pads over the coldest months and just recently replaced the LR caliper while changing out pads for the RR.

It seems to be getting worse so I decided to replace the small flex hoses for the rear up behind the drivers front tire. Did that today and bled the system (power bleed with toggle switch...so easy)

went for a drive and the RR is STILL sticking and smoking and being all dramatic.

what else do I need to be looking at??

The brake pedal feels fine. A little sluggish but not abnormal for the truck. I think.

im at a loss

no codes
no amigos
svs mod has been done.

2” lift with 32s

stock everything else.

TIA.

 

How are the caliper slide pins? Does the caliper move freely in/out? Did you grease them?

 

Yeah, my first thought was caliper slide pins.

 

yep, pins frozen....look for uneven pad wear. Often, the pin bridge does not come with the 'new' rebuilt caliper (not 'loaded') and the old ones are used.....

 

First of all thanks for the advice guys.

I Checked the calipers

slide pins were greased and move freely

caliper moves freely

pads were not lubed at the mating surfaces but I doubt that’s the issue because none of them are and I only have issues on this side.

went ahead and greased the mating surfaces though. Need to do that on the others as well

any thing else?

 

Only other thing I could think of is "maybe" a hub/wheel bearing which is causing the rotor to bind in the caliper. Lift the wheel off the ground and make sure there is no play in it. Only other wild thing I could think off especially since the lines have been replaced. And you absolutely bled the system and then bled it again via power bleeding?

 

no play in the wheel

Do I need to bleed the system with someone pumping the brake pedal AND power bleeding? Or will power bleeding do it all? I’ve heard both.

also, what about the master cylinder? Should I be looking at that as a problem?

 

I'd think if it was the MC both rear would be acting up. I power bleed 2-3 times personally and in the LR RAVE you bleed the lines closer to the MC first vs the furthest away first.

 

Update:

replaced Master cylinder. Was a good process to learn how to bleed the entire system. Easy install and pedal feels good

still had the same problem though. Pass rear caliper dragging.

checked all booster vacuum lines and they were good as well.

I was down to two options.

1) wheel bearing/hub issue
2) New caliper from last May of 2019 already failed.

Had Oreillys order the caliper and changed it out under warranty.

sure enough...failure within 6 months.

new brake caliper did the trick.

who would have thought something could fail that fast but it did. Could’ve saved myself some issues for the past few months.

thanks for all your help. This was a great learning experience and I feel very competent when it comes to the D2 braking system.

problem resolved.

 

HI, just looking at you problem, there are a few reasons brake bind, but by the look of it you have covered most of them, when fitting new pads I always try the pad fit if its tight take a bit off with my angle grinder from the edge of the steel so it a nice loose fit in the caliper and a good lub with copper slip anti size grease
but that not solve your problem

so I think you may have a pressure retention problem, now the brake fliud goes from the Master cylinder to the hub through the ABS module, so the problem could be in the ABS internal circuitry,

now the only difference to the RAVE manual is I have drawn in 4 location in shown in Red to fit 4 in line 0-3000 psi hydraulic gauges, using a 3 way female brake fitting and a short brake pipe jumper so you dont need to replace your original brake lines, of course you could if you thought it would help extend the take off brake pipe longer so that you could mount the gauges on your dash as a temporary item to monitor you brake caliper pressure

check out the video for brake caliper pressure check, ......




these 3 way female trees are £5 in the UK






https://hydraulicmegastore.com/produ...cerine-filled/

these gauges are just over £10 in the UK, so for £15 -20 a wheel, and a length of brake pipe you could fit a perminate monitering system on your brakes,