Need help deciding on Disco II
Had a 97 a while ago but ending up selling it. Now I am back on the market and found this guy. Wondering what should I look for when I see the Disco in person. Since I live in the middle of no where, they are willing to drive half way.
2002 Land Rover Discovery | ksl.com
Thanks!
2002 Land Rover Discovery | ksl.com
Thanks!
If I could start my search over again, I would spend $70 on an ultra gauge and take it with you. See if any codes are stored, and watch the temperatures when it's on a test run.
It also adds a bit of weight to your offer when it comes to negotiate.
Check which bulbs should be on when the ignition is turned, to check no one has fiddled with that
Ask about front drive shaft and if it replaced with a fully serviceable one.
See what colour coolant is in it. You don't want to keep orange dexcool in there.
Look underneath at the back, is the frame rotted. The two big steel sections running front to back. Surface rust is normal. But you shouldn't see any holes!
What I can think of off the top of my head.
It also adds a bit of weight to your offer when it comes to negotiate.
Check which bulbs should be on when the ignition is turned, to check no one has fiddled with that
Ask about front drive shaft and if it replaced with a fully serviceable one.
See what colour coolant is in it. You don't want to keep orange dexcool in there.
Look underneath at the back, is the frame rotted. The two big steel sections running front to back. Surface rust is normal. But you shouldn't see any holes!
What I can think of off the top of my head.
I think 210 is considered ok, for brief times, especially if you are pushing things. Most people are happier if things are a touch lower.
It's not so much they overheat more, it's the damage that gets done easily if they do overheat.
That's why I suggest taking a UG to look at one. If a potential purchase is looking hotter than that, you will have work ahead of you to drop the temps. Rad, thermostat mod, flushing dexcool etc.
It's not so much they overheat more, it's the damage that gets done easily if they do overheat.
That's why I suggest taking a UG to look at one. If a potential purchase is looking hotter than that, you will have work ahead of you to drop the temps. Rad, thermostat mod, flushing dexcool etc.
Bring a scanner when you take a look at the D2.
Look for any faults in the computers (especially ABS)
Avoid models with ACE or Rear SLS as those are just more features that will fail.
Also avoid '03 models as they tend have engine problems (slipped cylinder liners, oil pump failure)
Closely check the roof and hood paint for clear coat cracking. Happens on all D2s at some point
If you go for an '04, go with the S or SE and avoid the HSE models because the HSE will most likely have SLS or ACE.
I have a 2004 D2 SE with 100k and I have not had any issues with it.
Look for any faults in the computers (especially ABS)
Avoid models with ACE or Rear SLS as those are just more features that will fail.
Also avoid '03 models as they tend have engine problems (slipped cylinder liners, oil pump failure)
Closely check the roof and hood paint for clear coat cracking. Happens on all D2s at some point
If you go for an '04, go with the S or SE and avoid the HSE models because the HSE will most likely have SLS or ACE.
I have a 2004 D2 SE with 100k and I have not had any issues with it.
Just bought TWO of them in the past two weeks.
2003 on the UG was 194 (same as my D1 and P 38
2000 on the UG was 210 to 215 (will flush and change thermostat to a soft spring.) It has 208,580 miles so it need some TLC.
An Ultra Gauge (UG) is worth every penny
2003 on the UG was 194 (same as my D1 and P 38
2000 on the UG was 210 to 215 (will flush and change thermostat to a soft spring.) It has 208,580 miles so it need some TLC.
An Ultra Gauge (UG) is worth every penny
Are those temps at idle or under load such as driving around the block? I will bring my ultra and a hand scanner. Also, he mentioned to me that ABS is bad, lights turn on and off sporadically.
Last edited by FINDingCLARITY; Sep 23, 2015 at 10:43 AM.
If it's what they say it is, it's not too bad of a price for the goodies. My '99 was purchased two years ago on KSL with full records (serviced at Great Basin Rovers) an 95k on the clock and it cost me $5500.
Even then, I still almost blew a headgasket because of a stuck thermostat. You CAN NOT determine the condition of the cooling system without an Ultaguage. $70, buy it. Even if you don't get a disco it's a cool/useful gadget for any car.
I put in the TD5 diesel thermostat, it fits right in and rated for 180 degrees. I DO NOT get near 210F unless I'm in moab in triple digits, 4-low, with the AC off. I can hit 205-ish idling at McDonalds with the AC-off, but turn the AC on and I'm pegged around 194 in harsh conditions.
Usually, she runs 188-194F. When the T-stat was going bad, I was hitting 215F on a light uphill, and it would leave the center mark (bad news) at the drive through (this is what teed me off to an issue).
Don't go there, use the Ultraguage.
Keys to look for:
1) records
2) Serviceable driveshaft
3) Cooling System robustness.
Plan to budget an entire cooling system rebuild if they don't have records. It's just better for the motor and not hard to do. It's not that pricey either if you do it yourself and shop around for parts.
Good luck! Love my disco!!
Even then, I still almost blew a headgasket because of a stuck thermostat. You CAN NOT determine the condition of the cooling system without an Ultaguage. $70, buy it. Even if you don't get a disco it's a cool/useful gadget for any car.
I put in the TD5 diesel thermostat, it fits right in and rated for 180 degrees. I DO NOT get near 210F unless I'm in moab in triple digits, 4-low, with the AC off. I can hit 205-ish idling at McDonalds with the AC-off, but turn the AC on and I'm pegged around 194 in harsh conditions.
Usually, she runs 188-194F. When the T-stat was going bad, I was hitting 215F on a light uphill, and it would leave the center mark (bad news) at the drive through (this is what teed me off to an issue).
Don't go there, use the Ultraguage.
Keys to look for:
1) records
2) Serviceable driveshaft
3) Cooling System robustness.
Plan to budget an entire cooling system rebuild if they don't have records. It's just better for the motor and not hard to do. It's not that pricey either if you do it yourself and shop around for parts.
Good luck! Love my disco!!
I recently bought an 02 D2 and I did take my scangauge II with me. Owner of the D2 said the temps were perfectly normal. Well his idea of normal was NOT normal. At idle it would get up to 220..... and driving it was 211... I told him that was not normal LR temps, and that I probably was no longer interested in his D2. Since it was an online deal he said fine, but he was going to keep the 500.00 deposit... I was truly upset about that along with renting a car one way to pickup the LR in the first place!
I checked everything else and he pretty much lied about the rest of it as well... He had done a lot of work, but for supposedly being Rover savvy he was a complete idiot and replaced all sorts of parts and even head gaskets. When I looked under the hood I could see the new parts, but I also saw two old parts immediately. The thermostat looked like the original unit (D2 had 158K on it), and the fan clutch wasn't doing much.
I gave the idiot his cash, and drove it home very carefully... When I had to stop in traffic I saw the scangauge jump to 225F but keeping the RPM's up slightly got it back down to 215F.
I got it home, ordered a thermostat ASAP, installed it, and now my temps are 193F going 80MPH, and 205F at idle. I also swapped out the fan clutch in about 10min. He probably stressed out the head gaskets so I'll keep an eye on it and replace em, but heck yeah take a scangauge II or ultra gauge with you no questions asked.
I did want something to fix up, and I am just now getting the interior up to par. It wasn't as advertised for sure, but I did save another LR from dying in the hands of an idiot!!!
I just spent slightly more than I should have, but lesson learned. Don't buy from friends or online where you can't just go see it in person before bidding on it/buying it.
I checked everything else and he pretty much lied about the rest of it as well... He had done a lot of work, but for supposedly being Rover savvy he was a complete idiot and replaced all sorts of parts and even head gaskets. When I looked under the hood I could see the new parts, but I also saw two old parts immediately. The thermostat looked like the original unit (D2 had 158K on it), and the fan clutch wasn't doing much.
I gave the idiot his cash, and drove it home very carefully... When I had to stop in traffic I saw the scangauge jump to 225F but keeping the RPM's up slightly got it back down to 215F.
I got it home, ordered a thermostat ASAP, installed it, and now my temps are 193F going 80MPH, and 205F at idle. I also swapped out the fan clutch in about 10min. He probably stressed out the head gaskets so I'll keep an eye on it and replace em, but heck yeah take a scangauge II or ultra gauge with you no questions asked.
I did want something to fix up, and I am just now getting the interior up to par. It wasn't as advertised for sure, but I did save another LR from dying in the hands of an idiot!!!
I just spent slightly more than I should have, but lesson learned. Don't buy from friends or online where you can't just go see it in person before bidding on it/buying it.
If it's what they say it is, it's not too bad of a price for the goodies. My '99 was purchased two years ago on KSL with full records (serviced at Great Basin Rovers) an 95k on the clock and it cost me $5500.
Even then, I still almost blew a headgasket because of a stuck thermostat. You CAN NOT determine the condition of the cooling system without an Ultaguage. $70, buy it. Even if you don't get a disco it's a cool/useful gadget for any car.
I put in the TD5 diesel thermostat, it fits right in and rated for 180 degrees. I DO NOT get near 210F unless I'm in moab in triple digits, 4-low, with the AC off. I can hit 205-ish idling at McDonalds with the AC-off, but turn the AC on and I'm pegged around 194 in harsh conditions.
Usually, she runs 188-194F. When the T-stat was going bad, I was hitting 215F on a light uphill, and it would leave the center mark (bad news) at the drive through (this is what teed me off to an issue).
Don't go there, use the Ultraguage.
Keys to look for:
1) records
2) Serviceable driveshaft
3) Cooling System robustness.
Plan to budget an entire cooling system rebuild if they don't have records. It's just better for the motor and not hard to do. It's not that pricey either if you do it yourself and shop around for parts.
Good luck! Love my disco!!
Even then, I still almost blew a headgasket because of a stuck thermostat. You CAN NOT determine the condition of the cooling system without an Ultaguage. $70, buy it. Even if you don't get a disco it's a cool/useful gadget for any car.
I put in the TD5 diesel thermostat, it fits right in and rated for 180 degrees. I DO NOT get near 210F unless I'm in moab in triple digits, 4-low, with the AC off. I can hit 205-ish idling at McDonalds with the AC-off, but turn the AC on and I'm pegged around 194 in harsh conditions.
Usually, she runs 188-194F. When the T-stat was going bad, I was hitting 215F on a light uphill, and it would leave the center mark (bad news) at the drive through (this is what teed me off to an issue).
Don't go there, use the Ultraguage.
Keys to look for:
1) records
2) Serviceable driveshaft
3) Cooling System robustness.
Plan to budget an entire cooling system rebuild if they don't have records. It's just better for the motor and not hard to do. It's not that pricey either if you do it yourself and shop around for parts.
Good luck! Love my disco!!
When you say entire cooling system rebuild, what does that exactly entail?


