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Need Help Diagnosing P0301, P0303, P1300

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Old Oct 16, 2017 | 01:25 PM
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Lightbulb Need Help Diagnosing P0301, P0303, P1300

So here's the deal -

2000 Discovery 2, 4.0 V8. On my way back from a weekend off-roading at Rausch Creek in PA, I found myself struggling with some codes and symptoms. I've done a pretty thorough search for similar situations but none that match what I am experiencing - hence my plead for wisdom of others...



SYMPTOMS:
- Codes: P0301 (cylinder 1 misfire), P0303 (cylinder 3 misfire), P1300 (cooking the cats)

- Rough idle at cold, evens out once running temps are up and system is running Closed Loop.

- Losing relatively small amount of coolant. No white smoke under load or cruising, but slight at start up. Temps between 188F - 194F cruising speed.

- Sluggish when under heavy load, does not like to accelerate. Misfire is very obvious.

- Anything more than a 5% grade truck cannot keep constant speed. Going up hills I've seen RPM's go up to ~3K with ~90% on the throttle, but speed does not increase.

PARTS REPLACED TO DATE:
- ERR6045 Coil Packs (2)
- Magnecor 80242 8mm Ignition Cables
- (8) Bosch FR8DPP30X Platinum Spark Plugs
- (2) Bosch 15175 O2 Sensors
- Hayden Automotive 2991 Fan Clutch
- URO Parts STC4378 Water Pump
- Catalytic Converters (Exhaust manifold to mid-pipe, not through cat-back)
- Expansion tank and cap

CURRENT NEXT STEPS AND THOUGHTS:
- Combustion and pressure test

- Inspect injectors and clean/replace with new seals (UREMCO Fuel Injector Seal Kit - purchased)

- I want to say it's not a coil or wire issue. P0301 and P0303 are on different coils and the other cylinders seem to fire just fine.

- Possible issue with the gasket at the water pump? I watched the BA water pump install video and they mention that if the gasket for the cover is not seated correctly, coolant tends to leak into Cylinder 1.

- Possible issue with the valve cover gasket allowing coolant to enter Cylinder 3 from Cylinder 1?

If anyone can chime in and help point me in a direction that makes sense before I jump to HG issues I'd appreciate the insight. And, if you're local to the Philadelphia area, there's a case of beer/bottle of booze/extra pair of hands to wrench if you're interested!
 

Last edited by LandBeard; Oct 16, 2017 at 01:29 PM.
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Old Oct 16, 2017 | 01:54 PM
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I would rent a CO2 combustion tester for the coolant. That way you can rule out a head gasket. Maybe also pull the plugs and do a compression test on all the cylinders and see if 1 and 3 are low. If you have a scope you could take a look in them to see if anything seems amiss. I don't know how long ago you did the plugs, but you could see if some are cleaner than others.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2017 | 02:02 PM
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Since you just replaced coils, wires and plugs. Just re check connections from spark plug to coils. Pull, plugs 1 and 5 and check condition. You can also replace the 2 plugs if possible. Reset code and observe.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2017 | 02:18 PM
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Originally Posted by CaptainAaron
I would rent a CO2 combustion tester for the coolant. That way you can rule out a head gasket. Maybe also pull the plugs and do a compression test on all the cylinders and see if 1 and 3 are low. If you have a scope you could take a look in them to see if anything seems amiss. I don't know how long ago you did the plugs, but you could see if some are cleaner than others.
Coils, wires and plugs were done about 2 months ago (~500 miles?). Where would you suggest renting the CO2 combustion tester?
 
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Old Oct 16, 2017 | 02:19 PM
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Originally Posted by LR03NJ
Since you just replaced coils, wires and plugs. Just re check connections from spark plug to coils. Pull, plugs 1 and 5 and check condition. You can also replace the 2 plugs if possible. Reset code and observe.
Plug 5 or 3? No issues on 5 but just making sure I'm not missing something from your suggestion.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2017 | 02:22 PM
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Originally Posted by LandBeard
Coils, wires and plugs were done about 2 months ago (~500 miles?). Where would you suggest renting the CO2 combustion tester?
I rented one from AutoZone for free, it was part of their loan-a-tool program. If not, then Harbor Freight should have them. I'd also take a look like at the wires / coils on 1/3 like LR03NJ said. Could be simple bad connection.
 

Last edited by CaptainAaron; Oct 16, 2017 at 02:23 PM. Reason: typo
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Old Oct 16, 2017 | 02:25 PM
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Perfect I have both close by. And I agree with you and LR03NJ - I'll take a look at those connections.

Would you suggest a multimeter to test the connection or just swap it to a different cylinder and see if that cylinder code is thrown?
 
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Old Oct 16, 2017 | 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by LandBeard
Perfect I have both close by. And I agree with you and LR03NJ - I'll take a look at those connections.

Would you suggest a multimeter to test the connection or just swap it to a different cylinder and see if that cylinder code is thrown?
I'd call AutoZone and see if they have it first, would save you a trip in case they don't. At mine, I had to wait until they ended up getting it back from someone else.

As for the spark plug wires, I would just check them and put them back, maybe add a little dielectric grease in the boots. Then clear the codes and see if they come back like LR03NJ said.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2017 | 02:36 PM
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+1 AutoZone for the Block Tester. Just a headsup, AZ will charge you about $25 for the tool (you get that back) and about $9.00 for the chemical. You won't get the $9.00 back, but you will ONLY NEED 1 Bottle.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2017 | 02:40 PM
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Originally Posted by OverRover


+1 AutoZone for the Block Tester. Just a headsup, AZ will charge you about $25 for the tool (you get that back) and about $9.00 for the chemical. You won't get the $9.00 back, but you will ONLY NEED 1 Bottle.
OverRover - Perfect timing chiming in with this. I went to AZ not knowing exactly what it looked like so I did not leave with the tester. I'll be heading back to pick it up!
 
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