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Need help with a leak

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  #21  
Old 08-20-2018 | 08:51 PM
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Three Wheeling
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Thanks, my local Advanced Auto has the Gearwrench 1/2 inch in stock for $9.99. I'll pick it up tomorrow. I noticed that in the AB video too.
 
  #22  
Old 08-31-2018 | 08:00 PM
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Three Wheeling
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Finally got the head off. It took impact sockets and a big breaker bar. Let me know what you think of the pictures. I didn’t see any obvious cracks, but it is getting dark out.
 
  #23  
Old 08-31-2018 | 09:43 PM
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Are you taking the heads to a shop?
 
  #24  
Old 08-31-2018 | 10:05 PM
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Not sure, may rent the tool in the ab video to see if there is any warping.

Any idea why the gasket would have been torn like that?

I won’t be driving this rover much, so trying not to dump much money into it.
 
  #25  
Old 08-31-2018 | 10:31 PM
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Originally Posted by duscarter
Not sure, may rent the tool in the ab video to see if there is any warping.

Any idea why the gasket would have been torn like that?

I won’t be driving this rover much, so trying not to dump much money into it.
Probably tore during removal.

You can can get a flat bar and a feeler gauge on Amazon.

The Block is more likely to be cracked, has it ever overheated severely? The block has much thinner walls etc. to crack. My first engine cracked, but it overheated big time.

There is probably a way to test it at home.

Get a a plastic scraper for the gasket surfaces, I wouldn’t risk the metal scraper like he AB video.
 

Last edited by CollieRover; 08-31-2018 at 10:44 PM.
  #26  
Old 08-31-2018 | 10:44 PM
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You could see part of the gasket sticking out before I removed the head.

No idea what the history of the Rover is. I bought it with the severe leak. Had it towed to my house. It started right up and sounded good. No milkshake, so figured it was worth the risk.

Thanks, I will check amazon.
 

Last edited by duscarter; 08-31-2018 at 10:47 PM.
  #27  
Old 09-01-2018 | 09:22 AM
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Originally Posted by duscarter
You could see part of the gasket sticking out before I removed the head.

No idea what the history of the Rover is. I bought it with the severe leak. Had it towed to my house. It started right up and sounded good. No milkshake, so figured it was worth the risk.

Thanks, I will check amazon.

That's really odd, like maybe somehow it tore during install, and they said eff it. Which is a good diagnosis, once it is torqued down, I do not think you could tear it if you tried. If the truck was not overheating I would really doubt there was a cracked block. The gasket also looks like an Elring gasket, and having just installed and removed I can say it would be HARD to damage it that badly, they aren't metal, but they are rigid and pretty tough.

Keep a few things in mind, and take it for what it is worth I am not a pro mechanic, but a few things I would recommend are a Fel-Pro Head Gasket kit. The cheaper gaskets are more difficult to install, and you are going to have enough on your hands just doing the job, the rocker cover gaskets especially(on sale at Rockauto right now). Second, if you don't have one, get a Dremel, and make threadchasers for all the boltholes, in particular, Block(of course), Cylinder head holes for both the intake and exhaust manifold, even the top of the lower intake, they will be full of goop/metal and you don't want to break bolts. Before you install anything clean those holes and make sure they will accept a bolt. Fixing boltholes is a time consuming(waiting for the kits) job you may avoid. I used Brakekleen and a ton of Q Tips.

There are radiator spring pliers on amazon that I found to be really really handy.

If you are not doing both heads a new remanned head is a good option from ABran. No more expensive than refurbing what you have.

Of course, you may already know all of this.

Amazon Amazon

Amazon Amazon

Amazon Amazon
 

Last edited by CollieRover; 09-01-2018 at 09:27 AM.
  #28  
Old 09-01-2018 | 10:20 AM
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Three Wheeling
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Thanks for taking the time for a detailed response. Someone has done this before, because the exhaust manifold bolts were not tight at all. They cranked the head bolts down. I still have 3 to go on the left side. It doesn't help that it is 90 plus degrees with high humidity here.

Shopping on Rockauto now. If I go Fel Pro, they don't have the head gasket. They have a Mahle kit with everything but the headbolts.
 
  #29  
Old 09-01-2018 | 10:23 AM
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I put a carpenter's square on the head and the block and shined a light. You couldn't see any light under it. Hopefully it was just a botched job that caused this.
 
  #30  
Old 09-01-2018 | 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by duscarter
Thanks for taking the time for a detailed response. Someone has done this before, because the exhaust manifold bolts were not tight at all. They cranked the head bolts down. I still have 3 to go on the left side. It doesn't help that it is 90 plus degrees with high humidity here.

Shopping on Rockauto now. If I go Fel Pro, they don't have the head gasket. They have a Mahle kit with everything but the headbolts.

Go to home depot with your breaker and get a 2 foot piece of lead pipe, they have some pre-cut, and stick that on the breaker. It's a good thing to have around for taking off lugnuts as well.

I feel you on the heat, I bought a big jug of water to keep around and a towel specifically for my head, I was rolling a sweat out there. The lead pipe extension will make the last three much much easier.

Mahle's are probably good, too. The Rocker Covers are molded, and I was able to reuse my Fel-Pro's that are molded(hopefully won't leak, but they have like 2,000 miles on them so I am optimistic). The unmolded are a total PAIN in the neck to install they flop everywhere, and the little Orings drop out and make your life heck.

If I did it again, I probably would order a Genuine INtake Valley Pan gasket to compare fitment. I literally climbed on the intake to seat it.
 

Last edited by CollieRover; 09-01-2018 at 10:33 AM.


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