Rover's North has three available options listed here: https://www.roversnorth.com/category...engine_gaskets

And Atlantic British has two: https://www.roverparts.com/engine/ga...als/STC4082BK/ https://www.roverparts.com/engine/ga...eals/STC4082E/

Which one should I get? I'll gladly pay the $5XX for the OEM kit from Rover's North if it's actually better, but just not sure if it is and wanted to get your guys' take.

 

I went with the lky8 kit with arp head studs. It doesn't matter how good or how cheap the headgaskets are if you dont get the proper torque. I hate stretch head bolts. I've never went back with them if I've taken the trouble to pull a head. Lawnmower engines are the only exception .

Sub 300.

 

+1 on using studs. I would get the best gaskets you can afford. Elring is OEM I believe and make a good gasket. If either place can’t tell you who made the gaskets in the kit I won’t buy it.

 

In this application, studs are snake oil.

I replaced the head gaskets in my truck 11+ years ago and used new, conventional stretch bolts and gaskets supplied by P.T. Schram. I don't recall the brand of the gaskets. All is well still.

I think some (many?) people in this forum use or advocate studs mostly because that's what the "cool kids" use.

Donning my flame retardant suit to ask, why studs?

 

i used standard oem head bolts too. 100k plus and doing good.

i think it’s the thinking that you may be less likely to overtighten a stud. Also, we have seen some of our blocks have holes where an over tightened bolt penetrates the piston wall (I’m not sure how that happens)

 

Studs are insurance if you a head gasket issue in the future, and that future can be a couple of months if the job isn't done precisely. If everything goes smoothly and we'll, and you don't overtightenor under tighten a stretch bolt, you don't need studs. It's the unknown that leads people to install studs.

 

For many people the stretch bolts leave an uncertain feel especially for those that are new to the endeavor of head gaskets. The studs however are much less daunting and are easier to get a properly torqued head for most folks

In the end both will get the job done so pick your favorite horse and ride

 

Are there clearance issues toward the firewall with studs and getting the head back on?

 

yes if you go studs you will have to install as many as you can with the engine in the truck. Then install the gasket and head, then put in the rear studs.

Studs are not necessarily snake oil. My opinion is that in an aluminum block it’s just a little safer. Following the instructions and using the thread lube will get a very consistent clamping force. The same can be said of the stretch bolts but you need to make sure you get good quality bolts. The bolt and steel formulation needs to be precise and the cheap Chinese bolts might not yield when they need to and pull threads.

Rover used studs on the V8 up until the mid 90s if I remember right. Manufacturers usually switched to bolts for lower costs and quicker assembly on the line.

 

Also another good read is this thread by Extinct

https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...92/#post786998