Okay here's what may be a crazy question. I'm thinking about trying to rod my radiator as a last ditch before buying a new one... anyone know how to remove the inlet side tank without killing it?

 

What tank are you talking about?

 

The radiator has tanks on both sides, from which coolant is fed into the heat exchanger cores. From what I understand one can remove the inlet tank, exposing the cores, at which point they can be rodded.

Anyway I'm off to pep-boys to grab the imperial fan clutch, the regular duty model for a whopping $35! Do you think I'll be fine with the regular or should I spring for the heavy duty? L.A. and it's suburbs can easily get into the low 100's in the summer, with lots of traffic. Plus I go wheeling in the desert about once a month...

 

I guess I mis understood you and thought that the radiator was still in the truck.
I dont know how you do that, somethings I leave to the experts.
Having a radiator recored is about $200.

 

Wow. Wowee wow wow. So that's what a working fan clutch is supposed to feel like!

It actually pulls air now! I haven't driven the truck yet (gonna let the clutch sit in position for the needed 24 hours), but a quick start and feel was night and day difference. the other clutch, even under high rpm, felt like a gentle breeze.

The new one ($35! ) pulls very strong.

 

Oh snap!!!
I guess I didnt make myself clear enough, you let the new fan clutch sit BEFORE you install it.
Once you install it and the run the engine you risk ruining the new clutch unless it has sat for a day.
Had you installed it and then NOT ran the engine at let the truck sit for 24 hours you would have been fine, but you installed it and then started the truck.
50/50 chance that you will be fine.

For future reference how much modification did you have to make to the new fan clutch?

 

I installed it since that was the best way I knew to hold it vertical. I just started the truck for a few seconds, I'm sure the clutch is okay (it was sitting vertical for a few hours as I took off the other fan and drilled out the holes). Anyway city driving all day today and it didn't overheat. Still haven't tried it on the motorway, which is where she tends to overheat, but we'll keep our fingers crossed!

 

I too am sure that you are fine.
Glad all is well.

 

The only thing you need to do is drill out the holes in the stock fan.

Kingsly, you don't remove the tanks to have the radiator rodded, the radiator shop will do it. It cost me $65 4 or 5 years ago to have mine rodded. But it started leaking again about a year later (the crud in it was part of what was holding it together). I had it recored then for $265, that was with a heavy duty core. I've heard it's more expensive now.

 

Just pulled a good looking radiator out of a RRC at pick-a-part. Going to install tomorrow after flushing it with a garden hose and whatnot. When I pulled it I used a hacksaw on the lower oil and tranny cooler lines... can't really do that in reverse. Any tips on installing those and the rest of the radiator when the time comes? I'm doing this without a service manual. Yes, I'm just that awesome.