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Just got my first D2. Current LR3 08 owner. Had it for 6 years so I’m no stranger to a wrench. The 3 is currently getting an electrical issue sorted out.I hope! Could be a can bus so it may have seen its last ride ugh! most shops don’t even want to look at it. Anyway the wife went to go to work this morning and couldn’t turn the key to start it. The PO had told us there was a trick to starting it like push key in then back alittle or something to that effect. Is it just this car or all discos? I had some trouble when I picked it up but a little jiggle wiggle push and it turned np. Also can I change those wimpy roof racks w another year? If I want to add a cage that’s not factory to rear half does Yakima or Thule make a system that attaches to the gutters? Appreciate the help in advance. This forum has been a huge money saver and thank all who have helped me out in the past
My D2 has this same issue. I believe it is due to the key getting warn or the tumbler in the ignition... or a combination of the two. I am going to first go with getting a new key cut. Long term I may need a new ignition.
You can replace those roof rails to the 2004 style if you'd like. Headliner must go out and that is a great time to check for sunroof leaks at the rail and drain connector.
Your key issue.. I suppose you could try lubricating the tumbler with a lock lubricant like AGS lock ease. It does not attract dirt/dust like WD/40 and other light lubricants. Yes I know WD/40 isn't technically a lubricant
Your LR3...
If you are in/around upper IL/Lower WI I'd take a look. Almost always CAN BUS faults and general electrical issues are due to the sunroof leak on the right passenger (US) side. The wiring underneath the carpet and door sill can become saturated and obviously once corrosion sets in so do the faults. Due to the nature of these wires, being they are to a computer, must have almost no resistance. I forgot the number, like .05 ohms or milliohms to a computerized circuit.
You can replace those roof rails to the 2004 style if you'd like. Headliner must go out and that is a great time to check for sunroof leaks at the rail and drain connector.
Your key issue.. I suppose you could try lubricating the tumbler with a lock lubricant like AGS lock ease. It does not attract dirt/dust like WD/40 and other light lubricants. Yes I know WD/40 isn't technically a lubricant
Your LR3...
If you are in/around upper IL/Lower WI I'd take a look. Almost always CAN BUS faults and general electrical issues are due to the sunroof leak on the right passenger (US) side. The wiring underneath the carpet and door sill can become saturated and obviously once corrosion sets in so do the faults. Due to the nature of these wires, being they are to a computer, must have almost no resistance. I forgot the number, like .05 ohms or milliohms to a computerized circuit.
Best bet this is your issue
wish at this moment I did live up that way but NY winters are bad enough. Thanks for the offer. There was no real signs of water damage to the lr I’ve spent weeks go over the electrical before bringing it in to a shop. It all started w a brake switch. After replacing a couple of days later it went into a safety mode occasionally four way flashers and whatever I would say on the radio. It wouldnt start like that but at some point it would reset or wire would reconnect idk but no fault codes at all when it was good and 30 or so when in that mode.
Regarding the D2 is there a proper way to start the car like I said put key in and then push even further pull it back? I’m positive the PO told me that’s way disco Keys are set up he had another and owned others previously so he made it sound like that was a feature
Keys have always been touchy with mine, I've had some made, and usually they have to "fine tune" the key by hand to make them work. The tumblers and keys wear out on these rigs so making a copy can be difficult. I don't have a fob for mine, so I use the manual door lock to lock and unlock, I have a key for that and a different one for the ignition. They are keyed the same, but I use the key that is happiest in that hole.....?
Spray the key with some “Tri-Flow” and operate the lock cylinder. The only special trick on older LR’s = to remove the key you push in, then turn to remove the key.
I just got new tires put on last week, and the tire guys still don't know how to get the key out of a Discovery ignition.....I have to stop them from basically breaking it. I have Tri Flow, I think I used it in the past, probably due again.
Regarding the key and the ignition switch - mine started being fiddly in the same way a few years ago, but it wasn't always that way so it's not a design feature. It has to be due to wear of the parts over time. I consider it an anti-theft feature.
Push the key all the way in, then start pulling it out very slowly while trying to turn it. Do not force it! You'll soon find the sweet spot and it will soon become second nature.
Regarding the key and the ignition switch - mine started being fiddly in the same way a few years ago, but it wasn't always that way so it's not a design feature. It has to be due to wear of the parts over time. I consider it an anti-theft feature.
Push the key all the way in, then start pulling it out very slowly while trying to turn it. Do not force it! You'll soon find the sweet spot and it will soon become second nature.
03-07-2019 | 09:03 AM
New to D2
