Hi everyone I’ve always wanted a disco and the time is ripe. I’ve built up quite a few rigs and wheeled a lot. I’ve had broncos, jeeps, a Tacoma, even a power wagon. Finally going to get rover. I’ve been scouring the forum for a few days trying to learn what I can.
But I have a couple of questions I’m sure you guys can help me with.
-did many discovery 2s come with axle lockers? If so, what am I looking for? An extra lever? A switch? Are they air or electric?
- how strong are the stock axles? The u joints and drive shafts? I plan on moving up to 33” tires at some point.
Were there any factory off-road versions better equipped that I should look for?
I live in southern Ontario Canada and the prices here are very decent, so much so I’m probably going to get a parts truck for spares.

 

99-01 or 04 will certainly have the CDL Transfer Case. Some 02's (depending on the actual build date). Only 04 came stock with the actual shifter to engage/disengage it. Axles are fine up to a 31inch tire. Anything larger then that and you'll be stressing the stock axle shafts out.

But like I always said when owning Jeeps, sure beef up the axle shafts, blow out drive shafts, beef up drive shafts, blow out transfer cases, beef up transfer case, blow out transmission or the pinion gears.... It's a never ending process and I'd rather have the weak link break first vs the $$$$$ stuff. It also depends on driving style.

A D2 is a D2 be it a SD/SD7, S/S7, SE/SE7, or HSE/HSE7. The 4wd system is the exact same throughout the model range. HDC is standard, the only main thing was CDL that was offered officially in 04, but like I said above earlier years all except late 02-03 for sure should have the CDL TC. Just gotta grab an 04 SLABS Unit & 04 Shifter Assembly.

33's are possible, but you'll need 3+ inches of lift. It's not like a Jeep where ya gotta have large tires. I wheel with 265/75R16's, 255/70R18's, and 275/65R18's just fine.

 

do the stock axles have a limited slip or just an open diff? Did they rely on abs traction control?

 

Open diff

They do use ABS to control wheelspin

It works pretty darn well honestly. Especially once you lock center diff.

Some end up going with air-lockers but I think anybody would be decently fine running Detroit in rear, Trutrack in front + 4.12 gears on 33's

If you were to think ideal between full off-road and such

 

I owned 2 Jeep Rubicon's with F/R lockers. The HDC, Traction Control & CDL do a very good job on a D2. The lockers on my 05 Rubicon's were great when they worked vs leaking down or having that weak little clip pop off causing zero air to get into the locker, but I've taken my LR's thru the same trails. It takes a different driving style vs just relying on Lockers to do all the work, but the system works in a D2.

The funny thing I've always liked about LR and their off road testing = they do it all in street tires! Most American 4x4 testing = slap on some M/T's and call it a day. LR designs their 4x4 system using street tires for traction, so when you actually install some aggressive A/T's or M/T's you get that extra bit of help as well.

If you wanna go hardcore full on truck nuts style then sure an ARB F/R, will make you nearly unstoppable.

I also may be getting old, but I prefer to only go so far and winch vs get really really deep into the boonies where no one else can reach me & then truly be up a creek without a paddle. When I wheeled my TJ/LJ Rubicon's all my friends didn't have lockers, so I'd end up ahead of them usually. Really just depends on the terrain you're gonna be off roading in. Here in TX we have a bit of everything depending on the location. By the end of my Jeep days most of the guys I wheeled with had gone so hardcore they couldn't drive them on the streets so they pulled them everywhere they went. I like to load up expedition style, enjoy the trip out, do the wheeling, and at the end of the day or trip drive home. Buying an F350 a goose neck trailer, and towing my 4x4 just isn't my thing. Reminds me of the Harley guys that trailer their bikes to the hotel, and then ride em a mile down the road to the bike rally acting like they're badass and have driven 1k to get there lol.

 

Thanks guys, best 4x4 thanks for your post, I don’t want a trailer queen by any means. I also prefer to drive to the trail, off road, camp, and drive back home. The good trails I would go to are 7-8 hours from my home. So overlander style is my style. Reliability will be key.

 

They're reliable, but you just gotta get a good one to start with. The common little glitches aren't that big of a deal if you jump into it knowing how to properly address them and budget it into the truck from the start. Like new front drive shaft, new thermostat, misc cooling lines, fluids, new fan clutch, fan blade, do Option B on the ABS Modulator, maybe replace a few ABS sensors, fix the leaky Master Cylinder, and IMHO totally remove the stupid weak link in the cooling system (Throttle Body Heater Plate).

I really want to open my own shop and specialize in restoring D1/D2's as I know pretty much every inch of a D1/D2. I've fixed up all of mine & I've repaired/restored several for some friends of mine.

I recently took on an 03 D2 SE7 that was left for dead for nearly 3 years after it's front drive shaft broke and totally destroyed the transmission, transfer case, fuel lines, transmission mounts, and the 4WD linkage. It also hadn't ran since. First day I quickly went over it, found the CPS INOP, replaced it and after sitting for 3 years it fired right up on 3/4 of a tank of old gas. Fixed the fuel lines, and checked all the fluids and let it run. Runs perfect and doesn't overheat (changed the oil ASAP). I then found a replacement transmission, and transfer case. Got it swapped out & it now runs and drives. I've just have to repair the master cylinder seals and it can drive on the highway once again. I've got a lot of misc interior bugs worked out. The only big one left is the RF Door is superlocked shut & I'm trying to figure out an easy way to open it without damaging the interior bits.

Honestly in all my years of vehicles it comes down to two types of vehicles. The ones that look beautiful inside & out, but are a mechanical/electrical nightmare or the ones that look good 50ft away, but have worn paint, and worn interiors, however they are mechanically solid and reliable. I myself would rather have reliable & mechanically sound. Paint is easy to have fixed, and interior parts are easy enough to find at junk yards, or online.

Take your time and look at several before pulling the trigger. I honestly prefer 99-02's as the 4.0L without SAI. The 03-04's are nice with more power and the fancy looking headlights, but that's about it. The 4.6L isn't as solid IMHO 98% of them have SAI, and the headlights will get foggy or get full of moisture and are more of a PITA vs the D1/D2 Glass ones from 94-02. Also mileage wise I prefer LR's with over 100K, and the higher the better actually. It means someone has maintained it and kept up with repairs.

 

Diff Lockers, Drive Shafts & Slip Differentials at KAM Differentials

Ashcroft Transmissions

There are many quality makes of diff lockers, some air and some electric. All diff lockers are retrofit as none are offered by LR as optional extras. Later D2's rely solely on TC operated via the WABCO ABS system. LR did not fit limited slip diffs to any customer D2's only their own Camel Trophy range for competition trekking. You are therefore unlikely to source a slipper diff other than a retrofit.

 

[QUOTE=OffroadFrance;625739]Diff Lockers, Drive Shafts & Slip Differentials at KAM Differentials

Ashcroft Transmissions

Thanks for all the input everyone. I’ve found an 01 with zero rust which is very rare in my area. It’s been dealer maintained most of its life, there is no head gasket issue at the present but does have the 3 amigos, a hanging headliner and none of the back door locks are unlocking. There’s a slight vibe when heavy on the brakes, but I’ll do complete brakes right off the bat. Figuring it’s a warped rotor. Transfer case **** is pretty much seized but should be easy to free up. If it still there by Thursday I’m going to grab it. Than I’ll be bugging you all for tips Thanks

 

Best 4x4 and I usually disagree on most things Jeep vs Disco, but he’s spot on with his analysis.

I will add that Great Basin Rovers (pretty well known old Rover shop) who have done some work for me- actually have mine at the moment as I’m lazy- have said to not get ARBs as they eat diffs (and GBR is known for diffs) and you are better off with Trutracs for longevity.

In terms of axle strength and if you know Jeep axles, I’ve read that the D2 axles are on par with a Dana 35 for general strength. Generally this is not a good thing as the D2 weighs a lot more than a Wrangler and most people hate the D35, but honestly I only busted one shaft in 14 years with a Jeep with one.

I also have never wheeled my D2, but am starting to warm up to the idea...