Further update, after about 4-5 goes trying to start it, the new battery is now reading about 12.5v, this might be normal (as you might be able to tell I am not the most mechanically/electrically minded) but I thought it might help indicate if there is a parasitic draw

Cheers,

Matt

 

@MattR that is probably just draw down from the failed starts.

12.8 at the battery is good, mine will actually start at 11.6 or so - but it starts at 1st crank pretty much every time.
Could be a CPS they get squirrely with age
Check every single hose and your air box. Disco's will go into limp mode and flash M&S if there is any significant air intake from after the MAF
Could be the alternator - if it is dodgey you may not be getting enough voltage
Also check all the grounds under the hood there are a bunch 7 or 8 I think even one loose one can cause weird stuff
Finally check for pending codes

 

Hi Richard,

Thanks for that, yeah I figured as much but know that any info might be useful in narrowing it down.

And cheers, will go and have a look at those other potential issues you have raised.

Cheers,

Matt

 

Update: tried the wiper test and that worked... So that rules the XYZ right?

 

Is the 12.8v standing or when running? That might be a dumb question as you can’t get it to start, but for running that seems really low. Mine is at 14.1-14.4v when running, but at your voltage when not running.

I’m leaning to the alternator based on what you’ve said. I also agree with Richard and checking your intake hoses. Check your ground on the chassis too for the battery and see what it looks like.

But as both Richard and I mentioned, the CPS can get wonky as can the XYZ switch, but it sound a bit like your charging system would be the best place to start.

And based on your other thread, sounds like you need a proper code reader as well.

 

Have you taken it to a car parts store for a proper charging test? Voltage tells you one part of the equation but its also important to know if the alternator is outputting a sufficient current under load. Alternators go bad all the time and was actually the first thing I had to replace when I bought my D2 even though the previous owner just swapped it out (it was the only shiny thing under the hood!). I bought an inexpensive replacement off of Amazon and it's doing fine so far. The alternator is pretty easy to replace yourself.

 

I've been in the land cruiser world long time and still have mine but also picked up a basket case DII, and sad to say the cruiser world is really becoming more of the later of the above statement.

@OP, we are in the same boat- new to this platform. Should be fun!
edit: My D2 has a completely roached battery, it will start but only with a box on it. Driving home it wouldn't go into OD and I had the same codes on the dash, so definitely try and put a fresh batter in there or charge it.

 

Other than downloading the manuals (all are in the google drive in my sig), get a OBD dongle and use your smart phone to help see what is going on.

https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...02/#post581013

 

Thanks for response, yeah that is standing as cannot get the darn thing to run! Yeah I think at this point I need the codes read, will check the other options you and Richard have listed too.

One quick question on the chassis ground for battery... where is it? I have tried to Google but cannot seem to find a single definitive answer.

Cheers, Matt

 

Thanks for response, haven't had a test - was hoping to get it running long enough to test alternator at home but no dice. Few people are saying alternator so it is at the top of list of culprits right now. Cheers, Matt