Found a few issues with it, some I knew of some I didn't. There was no CEL when I got it, however Im getting a random P1884 I believe and another one for maf no big deal ill get it sorted.

-Maf Code
-Need Drivers, and both rear passenger door actuators
-There IS water in the drivers side brake light [how did you see that ASHTRAY?
-Water Intrusion on drivers side of rear cargo door.
-I broke a rear part of the gutter off. OOPS..
-Im thinking it DOES need front driveshaft
-Hunting Cruise Control

So Ill be working on this thing for a while Deciding what to do with it. If it becomes too much work [time and money] Ill sell it and get a 06 Range Rover Sport.

So far I detailed it, Clay bay on roof and hood was disgustingly dirty.



Whats the fix to the leaking Taillight Syndrom?

 

Code P1884 is from the tranny ECU, it has a number of causes, and each of those has a "sub code" that can be read by the dealer or a much more advanced scanner that some shops have. List attached from the RAVE.

Could be related to MAF issue, as ECU for engine and ECU for tranny talk to each other and exchange torque and other info. So if you work on the MAF code first, the 1884 might stay away when cleared. Might help with cruise.

 

Her what disco mike says about 1884, so I'm not really worried. 1884, when you can find it listed is the only fault code that has 9 different versions, here is the brief version.
Engine friction invalid
Throttle position invalid
Engine temp. invalid
Road speed invalid
Engine speed invalid
Engine torque invalid
Engine speed invalid
Engine air intake temp. invalid
Altitude shift control invalid

Take your pick. The one thing I have always found is it, 1884. always show up with another fault code and if you fix the other code, the 1884 goes away.

 

What are the exact fault code numbers you are getting.
Most likely your MAF has failed which can trigger the 1884 tag along code as I like to call it.
How many miles on the truck? Might want to look at my major service list and use it to get your truck current, you will find it at the top of this section.

 

Yeah it's got 120k on it,

I cleaned the MAF sensor and the code appears to be gone, but tHe 1884 is still popping up at every startup. I'm starting to think it may be a separate issue.

Good news is I just tested out TC and it works great. So this 1884 and drive shaft are priority on my list.

 

I drilled a 1/8 drain hole at the bottom of my tail lights and it keeps things dryed out.

 

Very beautiful Rover.
Congratulations.
Make sure the front drive shaft is OK too.

I would only use CRC sensor cleaner on the MAF when it is cold and the engine is not running.

In regards to P1884 and Savannah's .pdf he posted.
I read the PDF.

You can check for the ambient air temp by running a code scanner and looking at the air temp.

Also -
you can probably read the engine temp when you first start the rover
with the code scanner.

Maybe those two inputs can contribute to the P1884 which Savannah kindly identified and detailed.

 

Well I lied about it being fixed... Now looking at new mafs.. I'm trying to refrain from putting used parts into this rover, so I am asking if there's any cheaper brands out there that are worth it?

http://amzn.com/B0087XA8HW
This one is 40$ shipped next day

 

I did correctly clean maf, I also did check air and engine temp all are fine. I'm looking back at MAF

 

If it's the exact spec Bosch Maf get it but I doubt it is. I bought a couple of these cheapie mafs and had horrible results so I popped for a new one. You can pull out the MAF itself by removing the security torx screws and not have to buy the housing. BMW used the same maf on other models and I bought mine from Bimmer. Search the forum for part numbers for this or simply take the MAF from the housing and google the bosch part number. New is better, you'll be amazed at what it does for the truck. Think I paid $149 for mine, MAF alone, can't
remember. Definitely wasn't $40 with the housing.