New Discovery Series II Enthusiast In Houston

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Feb 17, 2013 | 08:30 PM
  #71  
If anyone is attempting to replace their ignition switch, and plans to use a chisel on the bolts holding it in place, try a pair of needle nose vise- grips first. After half destroying the bolt on the right I tried the vise- grips and managed to get both bolts off, although it was a slow process.
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Feb 18, 2013 | 11:00 AM
  #72  
Since you live in Houston where its warm, Next time the throttle body heater is leaking coolant, Get a hose coupling, 2 clamps and bypass the TB heater. I did that to mine per Disco Mike ( I think) and have had no issues. just be sure to bypass it and not block it. It will most likely leak again. I fixed mine 2 or 3 times over the years,but since bypassing I have not seen or heard anythoing out of the ordinary.
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Feb 18, 2013 | 02:41 PM
  #73  
Quote: Since you live in Houston where its warm, Next time the throttle body heater is leaking coolant, Get a hose coupling, 2 clamps and bypass the TB heater. I did that to mine per Disco Mike ( I think) and have had no issues. just be sure to bypass it and not block it. It will most likely leak again. I fixed mine 2 or 3 times over the years,but since bypassing I have not seen or heard anythoing out of the ordinary.

Thanks. I think my problem was caused by Dexcool. What coolant are you using?
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Feb 19, 2013 | 04:12 PM
  #74  
I replaced my ignition switch with a used one that has a good key fob, but now the truck won't start at all. It seems the kill switch is activated. The battery in the key fob appears to be good since both red lights appear when i push a button. I noticed that the red/white wire has been cut that goes to the large brown connector. Any ideas?
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Feb 19, 2013 | 04:39 PM
  #75  
Quote: I replaced my ignition switch with a used one that has a good key fob, but now the truck won't start at all. It seems the kill switch is activated. The battery in the key fob appears to be good since both red lights appear when i push a button. I noticed that the red/white wire has been cut that goes to the large brown connector. Any ideas?
You now need to program the FOB to the truck's security system. I don't know if it's done by the user, or by a technician with a computer. Someone else will know the answer to that.
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Feb 19, 2013 | 04:59 PM
  #76  
I called the dealer and they said they will re-program the the Pass- Lock for $199. Of course, that means towing the vehicle to the dealer at a cots of about $150. I can't say I wasn't warned about how I would grow to hate this truck. I'm not there yet, but if this is how the experience will be I bet I get there pretty quick.
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Feb 19, 2013 | 07:02 PM
  #77  
Quote: I called the dealer and they said they will re-program the the Pass- Lock for $199. Of course, that means towing the vehicle to the dealer at a cots of about $150. I can't say I wasn't warned about how I would grow to hate this truck. I'm not there yet, but if this is how the experience will be I bet I get there pretty quick.
I know that on some cars, you can do it yourself by doing some wizardry with the key, lights, wipers, switches, etc... But this one might be different. I'd confirm that before you pay Land Rover to do it. A search of this site might even bring you an answer that is more acceptable. Again, I don't know yet from my experience.
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Feb 19, 2013 | 07:17 PM
  #78  
I tried a brief search earlier today, but didn't find anything that would help. I'll dig a little deeper tonight and see what I find. Thanks for the response.
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Feb 20, 2013 | 10:20 AM
  #79  
Quote: Thanks. I think my problem was caused by Dexcool. What coolant are you using?

Not using Dexcool anymore for a long time
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Feb 22, 2013 | 05:01 AM
  #80  
Ignition switch issue is resolved for now. I installed the unit I purchased off of eBay that came with two metal keys. Everything works fine. i will keep the original and the one with the key fob as backups.

Has anyone used a driveshaft from Lucky8? If so, can I get some feedback on the product?
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