If anyone is attempting to replace their ignition switch, and plans to use a chisel on the bolts holding it in place, try a pair of needle nose vise- grips first. After half destroying the bolt on the right I tried the vise- grips and managed to get both bolts off, although it was a slow process.
Rock Crawling
Since you live in Houston where its warm, Next time the throttle body heater is leaking coolant, Get a hose coupling, 2 clamps and bypass the TB heater. I did that to mine per Disco Mike ( I think) and have had no issues. just be sure to bypass it and not block it. It will most likely leak again. I fixed mine 2 or 3 times over the years,but since bypassing I have not seen or heard anythoing out of the ordinary.
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Originally Posted by slabrat
Since you live in Houston where its warm, Next time the throttle body heater is leaking coolant, Get a hose coupling, 2 clamps and bypass the TB heater. I did that to mine per Disco Mike ( I think) and have had no issues. just be sure to bypass it and not block it. It will most likely leak again. I fixed mine 2 or 3 times over the years,but since bypassing I have not seen or heard anythoing out of the ordinary.
Thanks. I think my problem was caused by Dexcool. What coolant are you using?
I replaced my ignition switch with a used one that has a good key fob, but now the truck won't start at all. It seems the kill switch is activated. The battery in the key fob appears to be good since both red lights appear when i push a button. I noticed that the red/white wire has been cut that goes to the large brown connector. Any ideas?
Pro Wrench
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You now need to program the FOB to the truck's security system. I don't know if it's done by the user, or by a technician with a computer. Someone else will know the answer to that.Originally Posted by Dgosh28
I replaced my ignition switch with a used one that has a good key fob, but now the truck won't start at all. It seems the kill switch is activated. The battery in the key fob appears to be good since both red lights appear when i push a button. I noticed that the red/white wire has been cut that goes to the large brown connector. Any ideas?
I called the dealer and they said they will re-program the the Pass- Lock for $199. Of course, that means towing the vehicle to the dealer at a cots of about $150. I can't say I wasn't warned about how I would grow to hate this truck. I'm not there yet, but if this is how the experience will be I bet I get there pretty quick.
Pro Wrench
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I know that on some cars, you can do it yourself by doing some wizardry with the key, lights, wipers, switches, etc... But this one might be different. I'd confirm that before you pay Land Rover to do it. A search of this site might even bring you an answer that is more acceptable. Again, I don't know yet from my experience.Originally Posted by Dgosh28
I called the dealer and they said they will re-program the the Pass- Lock for $199. Of course, that means towing the vehicle to the dealer at a cots of about $150. I can't say I wasn't warned about how I would grow to hate this truck. I'm not there yet, but if this is how the experience will be I bet I get there pretty quick.
I tried a brief search earlier today, but didn't find anything that would help. I'll dig a little deeper tonight and see what I find. Thanks for the response.
Rock Crawling
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dgosh28
Thanks. I think my problem was caused by Dexcool. What coolant are you using?
Not using Dexcool anymore for a long time
Ignition switch issue is resolved for now. I installed the unit I purchased off of eBay that came with two metal keys. Everything works fine. i will keep the original and the one with the key fob as backups.
Has anyone used a driveshaft from Lucky8? If so, can I get some feedback on the product?
Has anyone used a driveshaft from Lucky8? If so, can I get some feedback on the product?