So about this torque spec on the front hubs... I know a lot of you change them out yourselves. Do you all happen to have torque wrenches capable of that spec? Or just educated-guessing it?

To buy a torque wrench like this for one purpose seems like way too much of an expense. Rentals aren't available that high, and even Harbor Freight's highest-spec offering only goes to 300.

 

I have an impact and I’m an expert at knowing the sounds of the proper uga-duga for the torque spec

 

I just use a 1”drive with a 5’ breaker bar
-I find the punch depression in the safety cover seems to line back up moreless indicating its back in similar position.

 

I tighten them up with the wheels back on the ground without the center cap. I use a long 1/2 breaker bar and new nuts and I tighten them and punch the nut so it won't walk loose. Have yet to have any issues with that method.

 

3/4" drive harbor freight set, here. 200lb man on 18" pipe equals 300 ft lbs. Close enough.

 

German specs. Gudentite

 

I’ve worked on mine quite a bit. Although I do have the large torque wrench on board I go as tight as my impact Gun goes using my co2 tank at 95 lbs. ido this so I can remove in case of a brake on the Trail. Been wheeling for years and never had any issues. The book also calls for loc tight but I skip that and use never cease instead.

 

I was looking into this also since I will be replacing both front hubs soon.
Luckily I found a professional hire/rental company that has a digital torque wrench that goes from 250 to 700 for £52($67)/day.

 

Get genuine nuts, the ones I got were 36mm and could not be tightened with the wheel on, as the socket would not fit.

The best advice I got was to get a 3/4” Breaker Bar. That with a 6’ length of lead pipe do the job for me.

I was able to get the old hub off with a claw clamp and a breaker bar. That was not easy.

Use the sensors that come in the hubs if you can.

 

Good find. I hadn’t thought of that.