Actually, I'm an old member who's just been lurking around for years, lol. Lemme begin by saying I'm not even a "jack-leg" mechanic by anyone's stretch of the imagination. But, I'm just smart enough to locate the room full of guys who do know and pick their brains! So, in a nutshell I've got an '04 Discovery 2 that's been sitting in my garage for about the past 8 years. Hasn't been started in that time and I actually had it towed here from my previous house. The reason I stopped driving it to begin with was that there was an issue with the power steering going completely out as well as a check engine light which I believe gave a code of bad o2 sensor and I think the motor had gone /was going out in my drivers side window. So, I parked it fully expecting to get it running soon. Fast forward some years, life happened, cancer happened and there were just too many other things more important. I'm in remission now and I'd really like to get this thing back on the road. The exterior/interior is immaculate, zero rust, good headliner, both sunroofs still worked, zero leaks. Over the years, I've misplaced the ignition/door key but it is unlocked.
My question is, where should I start? My guess would be getting a key so I can try starting the damn thing, lol. But, I've heard conflicting opinions on whether the key for this year had a chip which would determine if I need to go to the stealership or if there are other options. Any help you guys can offer would be GREATLY appreciated. If there's any additional info you need from me to assist in giving me good informed advice, please don't hesitate to ask.

 

The keys do not have chips in them. A plain old physical key will work just fine. Not sure how you will get a pattern to cut one from though -- you may have to go to a dealership for that.

 

Well you can order a key online based on the VIN. Fill the power steering reservoir and see if it leaves a spot on the ground. Likely a bad gasket on the back of the pump. Oxygen sensor is easy to change, Oreilly or Advance will let you borrow the tool.

We have quite a few members out in CA, maybe someone can swing by and take a look.

 

Hey mollusc, thanks for replying. Do ya think it might be easier to just got this route?
https://lucky8llc.com/collections/di...-kit-with-keys
Maybe it would be easier/cheaper to swap out the ignition...not sure intensive that job is though.

 

Hey Extinct, thanks for the advice. As far as, members in the area that would be great! I'm in the Bay Area and I'd welcome any and all help at this point.

 

Congratulations on your remission! There was a thread a while back about the recommended steps to getting a D2 which had been sitting for a while back up and running. I would definitely do a search on the forum for that thread. If I’m recalling correctly the big items were:
1) Turn the crank over by hand first, don’t start it until you are satisfied it turns smoothly.
2) Replace all of your fluids. Any old fluids will have a lot of moisture in them even if they are way under the mileage/time limit. Best to start with at least the oil and brake fluid.
3) I don’t know the stage condition but all sorts of critters like to make their home in unused cars. You said the inside was good but I would pop the hood and get in there with a flashlight and check for any nests or debris- especially in the air box where the engine air filter is.

 

@nysfinest318

After 8 years do the following: (after your oil change - use cheap oil you will want to do another one in about 200 miles)

1. Pull all the plugs - label the wires 1st
2. Take some light weight oil 3 in 1 or a similar light weight lubricant penetrating oil works good as does very light weight motor oil 0w20 or even 0w15
3. Give every cylinder a really good shot, it will burn off later, be pretty liberal. DO NOT use the spray straw - even money it will fall inside
4. Leave it overnight
5. Give the cylinders another good shot
6. THIS IS CRITICAL turn the crank no more than a 1/4 turn
7. A little more oil then another 1/4 turn repeat until you have gone around once
8. This should prevent any cylinder scoring
9. Crank her over by hand another 10 -15 times
10. Plugs in - fuel relay out crank under power a couple of times
11. Fuel Relay in hope for the best - expect a fair bit of blue smoke and rough running for a few minutes

 

Greisinb, thanks for the suggestions. I'm taking notes and crossing my fingers that the engine hasn't seized.

 

Richard, this is the kinda help I was hoping for...break it down for me like I'm a 3yo, lol. Anxious to run through your list and see where I wind up. But, the Rover Gods did smile down on me a bit today. As I said in the post, I hadn't seen the key to this truck in at least 6 or 7 years and I had chalked it up to lost forever and was fully prepared begrudgingly, to pay a locksmith to make another key for it. I was in the driver' seat looking in the center console for the title and as my eyes glanced by the steering wheel, what do I see? The damn key has been in the ignition for the entire 8 years and somehow I never thought to look there, LOL. Also, just a thought...was talking to the wife earlier and she asked if I thought we could throw 5K in it and possibly just swap out the engine/solve all possible issues to which I answered, I don't know if that would cover the cost of the engine /install. As always, any help/opinions are greatly appreciated.

 

Now that is a lucky find! $5k won't cover an engine swap especially if you have a shop do the work. You can come close to that figure if you do it yourself and imo cut some corners. To do it right I think you're going to come in close to 10K in parts alone (LS motor fully done with a cam, 6L90 chevy 6 speed trans, adapter for LT230, trans controller, LS tuning software, upgraded axles/diffs, exhaust work, and then the fun part of making the electronics play nice with the disco side of the house). I know ACE sells a kit that retains the stock rover trans but if I'm going through the work of a swap I'm not leaving that slush box in there lol.