New radiator & Genuine LR hoses & 180 stat running 206-216 still with AC on
#11
Unfortunately, money would have been better spent on the incline mod rather than the aluminum Y a T. They are incredibly well made but the incline mod is much easier to bleed correctly and work on.
It can be exceedingly hard to properly bleed all the air out the stock cooling loop. It's always going to be a problem.
A working lower rated thermostat won't lower you maximum temp, once it's fully open coolant flows so anything higher than the temp setting is no longer restricted.
You could try a new a new thermostat but standard setup makes that a challenge.
It's easy on the incline mod.
It can be exceedingly hard to properly bleed all the air out the stock cooling loop. It's always going to be a problem.
A working lower rated thermostat won't lower you maximum temp, once it's fully open coolant flows so anything higher than the temp setting is no longer restricted.
You could try a new a new thermostat but standard setup makes that a challenge.
It's easy on the incline mod.
#12
Those temps are definitely hight for that ambient. I'm in AZ running around in 100-110 degree ambient temps and I never get close to 220. I was also in Durango, CO in 90 degree temps running at about 188-197 (AC on). I would suspect the fan clutch, air bubble, or the water pump maybe. The inline will help but only by a degree or two.
#14
Thanks it was an incomplete bleed. I added about 7oz of coolant to the T with it cold. I'll do the same fill in the morning till coolant is level with the top hose. Ambient air temps today were 83. Rover showed 195-206 w/ the AC on. Fan clutch could still be an issue. It is original.
An incomplete bleed will result in those temps. Ambient air temps over 90 cause higher temps for me too, with the 180... But never to 220. Those are more like stock thermostat temps. I'd be tempted to put it in a pot of water on the stove to see exactly what temp it opens at... Mislabeled stats have been sort of common in the past years.
Also a good way to check your bleed is to open the screw when the engine is cold... If coolant isn't right to the top of the bleed screw hole you have found some air. Rather than bleed again just add some coolant right into the bleed hole. You may need to do this a few days in a row until it no longer needs any extra coolant. When I last bled I did this and shaved 10 degrees off what I got from the original bleed. No inclines or lifting of the bottle necessary. Just do it with the engine stone cold.
Also a good way to check your bleed is to open the screw when the engine is cold... If coolant isn't right to the top of the bleed screw hole you have found some air. Rather than bleed again just add some coolant right into the bleed hole. You may need to do this a few days in a row until it no longer needs any extra coolant. When I last bled I did this and shaved 10 degrees off what I got from the original bleed. No inclines or lifting of the bottle necessary. Just do it with the engine stone cold.
#15
I do get a roar for about 1-2 mins starting from cold, then drops to quieter noise. This is with the hood open so I can hear it. No dirt build up on the fins or circular body. After 18 years of use could it just be declared dead from use?
About that fan clutch, does the engine fan really roar when first started cold, then quiet down after higher revs for a minute or so, or a mile down the road or so? Or does the engine fan always sound the same? If it doesn't roar, then it needs to be replaced. The feel when cold is a bit stiff even on a bad unit. It takes experience comparing good and bad units before you can feel the difference. Is there dirt built-up on the fins indicating the silicon fluid leaked?
#16
Thanks, pete, I'll get a bosch sensor and install it. Cant hurt and the one installed is original.. I can double check with my IR laser gun to see what real temps are on the hoses and radiator at idle are .
I know it sounds crazy, but I might suspect the actual temperature sensor. I recently installed a new one (non Bosch) and got higher temperature readings than I had before. I then sourced out a genuine Bosch unit and installed it, and the temperature readings came back down. I suspect a defective temp sensor, but Rovers North had no history of issues or returns. Then again, it was a $15. sensor, so perhaps not many people (myself included) bother to spend the money to return it.
Just a thought.
Just a thought.
#17
Reading actually temps with a IR gun will be beneficial also. Like Pete, had a bad senser on my 04, getting crazy temps, 220/225, after a few miles (reading with my scan tool). But whenever l shut it down and popped the hood...nothing jumped out at me (no "tinking" like you get with a hot engine, no coolant loss from reserior, hoses not super hard, fan not engaged-spinning freely, things looked and sounded normal, etc) . So threw the red beam at sensor area...and temps were well below what scan tool was reading (lR reading /187 - scan tool/230). Changed sensor with a used one...scan tool readings...187 - driving, 195ish - stopped with A/C on (88/90 ambient).
#18
All interesting stuff. In my 2003, I’m running 188-194 at temps under 90. Running around at higher temps with AC on and it will hit 210. I’d like to get them down some.
I’m having a new engine put in the 04 and we’re doing the in-line thermo mod while we’re at it, so I’m interested in seeing the difference.
I’m having a new engine put in the 04 and we’re doing the in-line thermo mod while we’re at it, so I’m interested in seeing the difference.
#19
The following 3 users liked this post by bosshogt:
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post