The OEM outlet elbow has no recess for a thermostat. It would need heavy modification. Besides, that piece of crap still bends opposite the radiator inlet toward the alternator; not the way to go. The modified Tstat housing tube need only exit straight out 2-3", just enough to secure a radiator hose with proper design to reach from water outlet of manifold to radiator inlet. There are plenty of radiator hoses on the market that share the routing needed to connect the manifold to radiator on D2. If not, there are kits to design a custom routing. But the factory coolant elbow is out of question.
Unless MS has answered the need for the mod housing on a factory D2 setup, further custom fab work is needed as previously mentioned. The adapter plates will get me started though.

 

If stupid LR hadn't redesigned the inlet tube array for the banana manifold on the lower intake manifold, we could have just swapped the D1 manifold for the D2s original but it won't work.

 

If you can sandwich that thermostat adapter plate between the Intake and the OEM Tube (without the D1 housing) it would be super simple. Yes it angles it up to the T, but slap on a 45 angle copper coupling or a 90 if you have to.

The OEM tube is very narrow, and honestly I would not want a rubber hose running all the way down there, above the alternator, and directly to the straight out connector. Way to much flex with that which could cause all sorts of issue from hitting the alternator pulley, or the belt. You'd need a radiator hose with the spring support in which I've never been a fan of as I had em on my Jeep Wranglers and they always rusted out.

I'll probably buy this plate adapter and see how the OEM Tube mates up to it and go from there.

 

im figuring if all else fails, get a good piece a 45 degree stainless pipe and tig weld it then pressure test to make sure it is completely sealed. I'm sure there has to be an easier way but still waiting till tuesday at 9:30 Britain time before they open

 

Thanks Luckyjayb! Please keep us informed! I'm seriously interested in doing the Thermostat mod since my temps are hovering around 210 to 212 degrees.

 

There are 100 ways I can think of to run a custom piece directly from the intake outlet to the radiator inlet without using the factory D2 elbow. Sure I would use it if that were my only option & I didn't care about aesthetics but that's the last piece I would go with given 1-million other options available for a custom routing. No, it's not completely necessary to use that elbow or else I'd just stick with that tacky excuse for an "inline mod" that looks like it belongs on some elementary kids science fair project.

For all intensive purposes if you find yourself having to use the D2 elbow just heat it up with a torch & bend it a different direction, cut it down, etc, but def don't use it as-is; the whole point of this exercise is to clean everything up.

 

There are all kinds of couplers/reducers/various materials and the same with hoses; silicone/rubber, fixed/pliable. It's doable, nothing too complicated.

 

Your temps are too high. At least replace your thermostat with a 180-deg model. this kit we speak of won't even work out-of-the box so you need to go ahead and address your coolant temps ASAP

 

I've got the 180 degree thermostat but now I'm waiting on the Dorman 620-112 Radiator Fan Assembly and to totally flush the system and install the parts.

 

The Land Rover tropical thermostat or aftermarket? I used a cheap Motorad unit rated @ 1&0-deg but it actually opened @194 & ran the temps up to 204 so that's something else to consider.