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I made these helper clamps from hardwood and 1/4"x 2" carriage bolts + washers, wing nuts, clamped the coolant lines, opened the hose clamps, replaced the thermostat, installed and tightened new worm clamps, removed helper clamps. There is a small coolant loss, but no mess. Top up coolant and bleed. That's it.
Clamps Clamps in action
Last edited by Discorama; Oct 18, 2019 at 12:10 AM.
Usually the thermostats are stamped with opening temperature labeled in Celsius. Here is the V8 thermostat breakdown:
- Cream is 190F/88C° with Hard Spring (Designed for TD5 and V8 applications) PEM100990B / PEM101020
- Black or Cream is 180F/82C° with Hard Spring (Designed for a V8 and used as a stopgap with Freelander K4 engines) PEL500110
- Grey is 180F/82C° with Light/Soft Spring (Freelander K4 engines)
Also there is a metal thermostat housing #AJ813558 for a Jaguar 3.0L V6 that you can add your own thermostat.
You could read yourself about the inline thermostat mod, nows your opportunity..
I did see something about that... what is the benefit of this mod? Considering it utilizes the game thermostat. Is it just less travel for the coolant?
could you help me out and direct me to a good build thread I’d like to knock it out this weekend.
Last edited by Carlos Man; Oct 18, 2019 at 06:37 AM.
I am honestly getting tired of the false so called britpart thermostats sold by a certain LR vendor. Plain & simple if it’s stamped 78C that thermostat is AWESOME and Britpart sells it. However plenty of fake 180F’s are out there.
I do not spread fake data or info, the true britpart 180F’s stamped as 78C are just as good as the grey LR OEM 180F unit at half the price.