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New Year's Resolution: Get the Disco Running

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  #1  
Old 01-07-2017 | 07:58 AM
Matthew White's Avatar
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Post New Year's Resolution: Get the Disco Running

Hi everyone! New user here but long time forum lurker. Finally convinced my wife that a third vehicle that doesn't run all the time was a good idea. Wanted to run some issues by everyone.

After buying my 2004 Discovery II on Craigslist in Gainesville, FL for $3100 (which I thought was a steal), I took it to the mechanic for a once-over. I had done a visual and surface level inspection, code-reader etc before buying it but wanted the guy here in Jacksonville to take a look at it.

We replaced the driveshaft right away, I wish I still had the photos to show you guys how royally screwed this thing was. Either way, sounds much much better now. Side benefit: Not worried about throwing auto parts at cars in neighboring lanes!

The mechanic also told me that the head gasket was leaking. I knew this was a historic issue with Discos and he said he could do the job for $2200. I figured his price was fair but in all honesty I bought the Disco partly to learn more about cars and get the satisfaction of doing it myself.

Now for my 3 questions for you all:

1. How do I know for sure that the head gasket has failed? I've read the common indicators but here is what I've observed:
I don't have water coming out the tailpipe.
I do have a bit of white smoke coming out the tailpipe but only at startup.
According to my BluDriver OBDII scanner I am running good temperatures (194F-198F).
It does leak like a sieve.
I haven't changed the oil yet so I don't know if the oil is "milky."
Pictures attached.

2. Attached a picture of my fusebox, there is definitely some weird wiring in this Rover. Which fuses am I missing? Are there normal fuses people leave out? I figured there may be with how many people dislike the sunroofs!

3. Perhaps the most perplexing. You'll see the rear door in the picture. It looks like it's completely missing a latch? Is there supposed to be another latch here?

Thanks in advance for all the help. Can't wait to get this thing up to speed and out to the trail!

Pictues:



The leak is coming from behind here. The terrible tape is on the air line...



Best shot I could get



Another shot of the leak!



What's missing here?



Is there supposed to be another latch here?
 
  #2  
Old 01-07-2017 | 08:36 AM
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Mine were leaking at the rear cylinder on the passenger side n dripping on starter motor. I had none on the "signs" U described. Best way is to rent a pressure tester from an auto parts store. U can pull the plugs and look at each piston and see if there is coolant there or if the piston has been steam cleaned. Most failures will be on the front or rear of each head where the coolant port is. If you do end up doing it, it's time consuming but fun. Lucky8 has a wonderful kit I used, less than $100. There will be other stuff u will need and if you can afford it, go ahead n get the arp stud kit and have your heads professionally reworked n decked. Theses engines are notorious for leaking. Clean that engine up real well then start monitoring it. You can by a uv additive if needed and trace it with goggles and a black light. Your door has me perplexed. What door is that on? It looks like it's just been moved
 
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Old 01-07-2017 | 08:37 AM
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As for the relays, I don't have mine close by but it could be the ace system or air bags
 
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Old 01-07-2017 | 08:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Luckyjayb
Your door has me perplexed. What door is that on? It looks like it's just been moved
Thanks for all the advice, need to rent that pressure tester.

As for the door, that's the rear hatch! The fit of the door into the truck and the seals are wonky on it as well, makes me wonder if there was some type of accident or fender bender....frame looks solidly straight though.
 
  #5  
Old 01-07-2017 | 08:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Luckyjayb
Lucky8 has a wonderful kit I used, less than $100. There will be other stuff u will need and if you can afford it, go ahead n get the arp stud kit and have your heads professionally reworked n decked.
Was that Lucky8 for all the seals and gaskets? I was looking at the one on Atlantic British, but I'll check that one out!
 
  #6  
Old 01-07-2017 | 08:42 AM
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If I can, I'll get out to mine today and take a pic to compare. On your door seals, if you can New are the way to go or good used ones but you might have to adjust your upper door frames with used ones and that entails removing the door card, but be extra careful so you don't put undue pressure on you glass n break it
 
  #7  
Old 01-07-2017 | 08:47 AM
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Engine Refresh (top end) | PaulP38A.com

there is a link to an Australian guy who did a nice write up and great picture on a head gasket job on the Bosch Thor (motortronic) engine. His was a Range Rover but still same engine.
 
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  #8  
Old 01-07-2017 | 09:20 AM
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Looks like a guide. Here are pics of mine.
Rear door with guide
Striker and guide
 
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  #9  
Old 01-07-2017 | 09:45 AM
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The puff of white when it starts after sitting awhile is probable coolant that seeps in a cylinder while it sits. That's pretty common (with leaking head-gaskets). Then when the engine is hot, it will still leak but not be a ought to show in the exhaust.

But head-gasket leaks usually get bigger. Well, always.

The oil/coolant in the pictures is probably also seeping from the head. Best way to find out is to wash the engine off at a car wash then drive a little and look.
 
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Old 01-07-2017 | 12:26 PM
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Yes, clean the engine 1st. Get engine degreaser 2 cans and let it soak for few mins and power wash it. I do the entire engine including all plastic bottles etc. Let it dry then start, let smoke disappears as they dry.
It will be easier if you need to replace the parts where it leaks. Also, if you have to replace the head gasket, it will be clean all around. Just dont power wash the radiator. Do underneath as well with extra can and power wash everything. Or its just me. I do it often and no problems at all starting.
 


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